2017 Mustang PP Wheel Bearings

[smbranssbn]

Has anyone had issues with wheel bearings or the hub assembly on the front of their 17 Mustang? Has anyone upgraded to the Ford Performance hub assemblies with the ARP studs? I only have 4500 miles on mine and the driver side front hub inside bearing is already bad. It's covered under warranty but it will take a week to get it fixed at the dealership. I do HPDE with NASA and was wondering if anyone had some insight. I haven;t found any reviews online.

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[Cobra Jet]

I don’t have any info on the aftermarket wheel hub bearing assemblies, but there have been various threads on this site concerning premature front AND rear wheel hub bearing assembly failures. Some have reported very low mileage, while others have upwards of 10k+... In each reported instance, the assembly has been replaced under warranty.

Not sure if the issue is a cheaply made vendor supplied part, a bad batch of bearings that made it through Vendor quality control, incorrect robot torque spec at Ford or who knows what... but usually sealed wheel hub bearings should be able to last at least 80-100K before needing any attention...

 

[DAVECS1]

I ended up replacing all my hubs after 3 track days, with just 2200 miles on the odometer. I used the moog replacements, we will see how this summer goes.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91327

 

[tom_sprecher]

Just replaced drivers rear after 22k. I don't understand how not torquing the half shaft properly would cause the wheel bearing to fail other than the splines getting buggered up. Since the unit bearing and hub assembly bolts to the upright, couldn't you theoretically drive the car around with no half shaft on one side or the other if you limited diff spin with a spool?

 

[white15gt]

The Ford Performance hubs are OEM hubs with ARP studs.

You absolutely can kill hubs quickly from them not being torqued properly.

 

[tom_sprecher]

The Ford Performance hubs are OEM hubs with ARP studs.

You absolutely can kill hubs quickly from them not being torqued properly.

The killing of bearings due to incorrect torque controversy refers to the half shafts, not the hubs.

 

[Cobra Jet]

The Ford Performance hubs are OEM hubs with ARP studs.

You absolutely can kill hubs quickly from them not being torqued properly.

So, essentially if one buys the FFRP hub, there’s no guarantee that it too will fail prematurely since we can (at this point) assume it’s the SAME part that the production line is installing (and is prematurely failing on some vehicles)... right?

Does anyone know who the vendor is for these failed hubs? I’d be willing to bet it’s outsourced to China.

I know TIMKEN made bearings are excellent, as I’ve always used that brand for not only for bearing assemblies but also clutch throw out bearings.

 

[smbranssbn]

I got the car back today. Ford replaced under warranty. No explanation of why it failed, they just told me "good news its under warranty". If it continues to happen, i'll be on the search for something beefier. At least I got it back in time for track day at Buttonwillow on the 21st. If anyone else is there, introduce yourself. I'll be the old bald guy with the black mustang. Thanks everyone for the info.

 

[JustaMustang]

By any chance are any of you running spacers or have been running spacers?

 

[tom_sprecher]

No spacers here

 

[GTP]

At what point in the drivetrain does the 5 year warranty end?
Does it include the halfshafts and hubs?

 

[DAVECS1]

I have two track events on the moog bearings and everything still seems tight. The Ford bearings I removed said China loud and proud on the front bearing race. The moog ones look to have a better seal and say USA on them.

 

[robwlf]

Any difference in performance pack and reg gt. Rear bearings. Can't imagine there is.. My rear drivers is clicking. I did axles nuts and rechecked every bolt. Has to be the bearing.. Just wondering if there all the same

 

[DAVECS1]

I believe all the bearing are the same. The GT350 has a different rear knuckle, but same bearing.

 

[gqneon]

Wasn't expecting to find this thread on the classified sale sections but since it's here I'm wondering - if it's clicking in the rear on one side or the other, when you take the hub off the car, is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad by hand or by looking? I've got my whole suspension apart and would like this problem resolved (at 4000 miles no track days.). Sent half shafts back after looking at mine to see if the axles were damaged somehow and popping after torquing them with new axle nuts and red loctite to BMR specs didn't resolve anything. Curious.

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