My recommendation, since I did all that and in tots pulled my trans five times including a stock reinstall in the middle - is go back to stock or RXT. I would take the refund and cut your loss - the solid hub RXT has had smoother engagement than I ever had with the mantic. Just my two cents -...
I hope Geoff takes care of you, he's been dragging a friend of mine having the same issues through the ringer over the same problems you're having and I had. Seems like this is popping up more and more now.
**Pending sale**
I've decided to sell my car - it's in excellent condition with approximately 4,700 miles. It's a 2018 Mustang GT Premium performance package car with the 6-speed manual. It has tons of major cost upgrades done and dynoed over 700 wheel on pump gas and over 800 wheel on e85...
I swapped my throttle body internals to the oem original ones (motor and cover) and haven't had the issue return yet. But I've also not taken it to the track to truly flog it in 1/2/3/4 - and it almost always happened on 1-2 shift coming off the line. I can't confirm it's gone - but if timing...
Geoff at mantic had me making spacers to put under the clutch pedal etc to see if it was over or under engaging - etc. after pulling it three times I said enough, and that includes having sent it back between pulls when we "couldn't find anything wrong." I didn't try any aftermarket throwout...
I never resolved it, took three weeks to get a refund once he had it back. He said he sold it to someone else who had no issues but I've gotten PM's from a number of people having the same or very similar issues with Mantic. I wanted it to work and bent over to try. If I would have had to pay...
I put my McLeod in once and it does exactly what you'd expect from a well built clutch - no install drama, no missing or wrong parts, just a solidly built twin disc. You can hear the gearbox in a different rpm range than the stock dual mass flywheel transmits but that's to be expected with all...
Let us know if that solves it for you - hopefully it does tho because headers sure aren't much fun to install and replace.
What headers were you running? Did you find any place they actually failed or warped?
Ok, I talked to Kelly earlier and afterwards pulled apart my shock top mounts.
I used a good bit of blue loctite on the base of the threaded portion of the Viking shock rod. I set the small washer over it and ran the taller nut down as tight as I could with a wrench and spanner wrench on the...
The axles from aftermarket companies like Driveshaft Shop don't have those washers like a stock Ford are probably GT 350 new. I wonder if those are needed in addition to that at DSS axles?
I'll try this if it looks like nothing else is fixing it - it would be a good test. I'd like to think the shocks fine and I've just missed something.
I took for granted how nice and easy the stock shocks are to install the bottom bolts to - the bolt , two washers and a nylon nut are a lot...
I torqued the top ones to 66 lb/ft and the bottom ones were around 37 lb/ft and they all appeared intact and tight - but I wonder about the shock mounts and the hardware . I waited a week and half for the updated hardware (smaller washer and taller nut) but it seems like the threaded spherical...
I installed the BMR SP088/089 springs, Viking crusaders and BMR mounts - and I'm getting a near constant rattling from the right rear shock area at low speed and especially if there's uneven pavement. I'm just test driving the car so when I heard it I put it back in the garage. I pulled the...
Yikes. I got mine Saturday and realized they still have the small nut and huge washer combo. Shot Kelly an email Saturday and he replied first thing Monday saying he'd send me out the updated hardware. I'm guessing they're slammed busy though because the tracking number came up Wednesday but...
Yeah it's that inspection plate/cover where it meets. I used dynamat but a bead of well placed silicone would do the trick. You don't have to hit it that hard to hear it.