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rockauto has two different part numbers listed for rear upper shock mounts. fr3z18a161a or b. the b part number has a black top as opposed to the silver/aluminum top on the a part number which is on my car and probably most everyone else's. the b number is a little cheaper. does anyone know...

the j and m mount has an exposed bearing. i live in the midwest with pretty harsh winters. will this survive from a corrosion standpoint?

the notch appears to be there to clear a studhead on the underside of the shock tower. in reality it clears just fine even on the sides without the notch so i dont think it really matters. also read this thread on installing the bearings...

switch the front left and right wheel and see if it pulls to the left. sometimes you can have a ‘heavy tire’

thinking it through, there must be an optimal tbr for a given application. drag racing probably would do best with 100% or essentially a fixed axle. taking turns on a track would need less. the mustang being a mixed use car probably falls somewhere in between-a compromise. this could mean it...

havent heard back from torsen about this yet but i did find a link on torsen website about friction modifiers digesting it it seems likely that slick 50 would decrease diff temp at the expense of impairing the diffs ability to limit slip https://torsen.com/tbr-lube-friction-modifier/

i just emailed torsen and asked them about adding slick 50. im awaiting a response.

it looks like from the video it would be an all or none phenomenon. either the spur gear could turn the worm gear or not. if it could not then we should be good. as an aside, the torsen is really a beautiful piece of engineering. after i saw the video i wanted one.

yes i saw that but it also says it can be used in an open diff the only way it could cause a torsen to malfunction is if it dropped the friction so low that the spur gear could turn the worm gear which i think is unlikely. in any case its a quick and easy experiment with little downside. i would...

one time i poured some slick fifty thoughtlessly into a motorcycle crankcase forgetting it had a wet clutch. the clutch would slip under hard acceleration. had to drain it and put in new oil. so the stuff is pretty slippery. i suspect if you used it on a clutch pack lsd it would cause problems...

it would be interesting to pour a can of slick 50 into the diff to see if that decreases temps

mount the strut on the car and lower the car to the ground once the weight of the car is sitting on the strut hat you should be able to torque it down with a regular socket and torque wrench also this video may help

what im seeing in these pics is the sheetmetal around the bolthole cracking but the bolthole looks ok. can someone confirm that its the sheetmetal that is the structural support for the shock?

has anyone tried installing these on a non lowered mustang? on the face of it it should raise the roll center thereby decreasing body roll but without adding any stiffness to the suspension. sounds like a win-win.

looking at the graphs it looks like peak power is increased but low rpm power is decreased i had an aem but put the stock back in because it felt sluggish

i dont want to turn this into a koni v bilstein discussion but heres my 2 cents. if u look at the spring rate sticky you will see the rear spring rates vary from 668 (stock) to 994 lb/inch. how can one damper setting be the right amount for that entire range? the advantage of konis is u can...

is there a performance spring available with no drop? i have a nonpp gt and the only option i can find are pp springs which are only a very mild increase in rates

i just did this job and had a difficult time removing the passenger side lateral link. finally i got this tool from harbor freight for 10 bucks hammer this in between the link and the knuckle. then use a small jack to jack the handle up until the end of the link breaks free. worked like a...

i just did this job, it actually went very well. ill describe how i did it for people looking to do it. rent the powerbuilt ball jojnt press kit from advanced auto parts. you need to apply a lot of force so buying a cheap one off amazon is probably not a good idea. use a sunex 1 and 3/8 inch...

fyi. just tracked the car and i can report the brembos are phenomenal