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thanks for the input and strengthening the consensus. I’m going to go and see if the shop I go to will be willing to just do a toe/go for me on the front end of this thing without charging me full custom 4 wheel prices.

Absolutely, it still provides a thrill on road if you move quick enough. I don’t drive like this in traffic or around people to be clear :cwl: . This type of driving is why I wanted a little bit of camber to help the car (and I) out. I’m hopeful I can get a quick toe correction and enjoy these...

Onramps and all are fun without traffic, I like to get my speed on all corners before I enter them and do my very best to not upset the chassis while in the midst of it on the street.

You and me are on the same page, I feather every corner. I’m young, naive, stupid, but not a moron, I know how dicey all RWD cars get :cwl:

At least on road, my biggest challenge is oversteer still. I’ve thrown all kinds of stuff at the car and can’t drive it at its true limit (on road with no risk). I should track it for repeatability and make the most of the adjustable bits on it. edit: I also have BMRs adjustable bars set to...

I’ve really enjoyed a less aggressive version of your alignment. My car on all four corners is like .03 toe in and -1.6 camber. Rear ends wearing wonderfully, something must be awry up front.

Agreed! I’ve got camber to tuck the GT350 wheels on my base GT, but otherwise like to drive 25-50% of the time spiritedly on the backroads. i’ll have to see what the car is sitting at and make a decision.

Hearing you say that brings me comfort for some reason, I’ll ask my favorite tech to do a two wheel and see if the toe got knocked out. I’ll bring it back to the .02 deg toe in if so. Will report back!

I hope you’re right and my car just got knocked out of spec. I’ll have to go in for an alignment. To your knowledge, toe IN should scrub the outer edge of the tire right? Camber obviously wears the inner portion of the tire, but I’m seeing actual shoulder issues.

You’ve definitely heard correctly! I have adjustable parts on the front and rear end camber adjustment. I think Ford specs base GTs to have something like .6-1.2 deg negative camber for the cars. I’m just trying to prolong some tire life for weekend cruising.

Hey everyone, Washing car today for the first time in forever, took wheels off for cleaning and noticed after 13k the front Michelin PSS are wearing a little more aggressively on the inner shoulder tread block. The car was set to have just the slightest bit of toe in and -1.6 negative camber...

Motor needs to be broken in! 3k miles and no hammering?! Change the oil and give her the beans.

:cwl: Trunk strut part number debate is probably one of the best things I’ve seen in a while. Good learning nonetheless!

This was my first question as well. Interest is/was piqued..

That’s a bummer on the parts! I haven’t had to touch my diff bushings yet so I don’t know how tricky it really is. Those are some good details.

If you have the ability to pull the rear end (not terrible, take your time), poly bushings shouldn’t be a terrible install.

Check torque specs, clock bushings, verify correct installation of pad shims/hardware!

Buy a lottery ticket, that’s probably the first time a piece of metal of that size has come out an oil pan of a running motor!

I’ve got 0 clue about the fine details about what FI yields, but this is inline with the GT500s. What kind of 60-130 times are you looking for? Edit: little reading tells me you probably want to be in the 4s… Are you confident - confident about no traction loss? Was this from a 0-130 or a hit...

ziptie a 8oz weight to the bottom of the gas pedal