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It’s kinda funny that confounding variables plagues both the issue of COVID related ailments and Voodoo failures lol. To stay on topic, I hope the Voodoo owners keep letting it rip. A small portion of generally mass produced large pieces of metal moving at over 8,000 RPM are bound to experience...

Get more paint chips so the glass chips are less of an eyesore

How’d you keep them quiet? With the chassis articulating/twisting over driveways the rear bar is always groaning against the subframe. I keep it greased and clean and stored indoors so I’m not sure what else to do.

They’ve been doing some advertising, it caught my interest though!

Looks wonderful, what are your widths? The GT350 wheels are 10.5/11. I could certainly do 285/295 up front and the 295 in the rear. The other part of this is the actual extra cost of sticking to factory sized PSS at ~$400 a pop (these have gone down since I’ve last looked!), vs the...

Send me your next used set!

Yank and wire brush and brake clean and let it rip. Honestly if it makes you feel better just do them, it’s like $50 for V6 and 75k/10yrs is a decent service life. Yes they could probably go longer. I had a car with 160k on plugs lololol.

It really sucks these sizes limit you to the nittos or michelins only. The 35 aspect at these widths just look so much beefier (and better in my humble opinion) than 30s do! If Michelin would do a PS4S in these sizes i would be personally overjoyed.

The GT350 fronts are actually 10.5! 305 on a 10 wide on the front would be a little funky.

Don’t want to thread jack. But i have a GT on the GT350 wheels and am planning on try to force 305/35/19 all the way around on them. Do you have a photo of your car by chance?

Never seen them, unusual. I have a base 17 though.

I think it’s slightly shorter but the differences are negligible and a reasonable 285/40/19 doesn’t exist. Stick to factory sizes or +10mm in size. Any extra rubber and you get that funky looking bulgy sidewall look that can feel unsettling while driving spiritedly or while cold (with PSIs lower!).

Hah this is my fear, alright. I’ll clean and watch it more closely.

Works great. Residue is on TOP of the compressor, there is residue on the pass side steering rack and on the timing cover on top of the crank pulley. Residue, very slight. It’s mild enough that nothing has dripped and it’s just collecting dirt.

Wrong forum to spam 24+ parts on….

My bmr bars scream, but racecar screw it.

Hopefully! I’m really at a loss, I can’t tell what else it could be.

I took a gander at the valve covers and it looks bone dry. I realize the leak is almost directly beneath the oil cap so it might be the result of some messiness on my end.

Hello fellow M6G nerds, My car hasn’t moved in weeks because of life, but I noticed some oil residue on the AC compressor, the passenger side of the rack assembly, and on the timing cover on top of the crank pulley. It isn’t dripping and has been there for a while (it’s collected some shmoo...

Yeah, i’ve had a hard time with a HF wrench and a Snap On digital wrench. Those studs are definitely not happy being cranked on multiple times. All non-essential, stationary component hardware gets hand tight and a little push from me. There’s DIYs for replacing the stud. I think the worst...