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The same thoughts shared between multiple implies some correct logic!

I also think it’s post-MAF which might throw air flow readings off vs actual.

I’d just cap it, whatever air that little filter pulls is going to be hot

It looks like corrosion weakened it and the road killed it. Unusual, as the fancy grade stainless used in high end exhausts shouldn’t disintegrate that quickly… Is that THE low spot? You might have an argument for a warranty if condensation weakened your pipes enough to cause this.

I’ve done it with the PP3 tune. The drivetrain on my base Gen2 coyote is still over $10,000. I really don’t care to be anywhere near “bouncing” off the limiter. If you got the cheddar to abuse your timing components then send it!

Purple 75-90 no modifier. Car’s great at 12k mi, no issue with single wheel peels.

If it’s totalled and isn’t crumbled beyond the rear subframe mounting points, I’d buy back (if price is good enough!) and cobble it back together to go full racecar lol. Edit: trunk and quarter look straight, if the chassis isn’t bent/damaged after inspection I’d take a check and slap a bumper...

Definitely do so! On a nice weekend morning all sorts of people come out with their toys for breakfast/coffee.

Awesome! Enjoy the city, it’s obviously not perfect but it’s home to many of us. Hit “4 corners”/Alice’s down by Woodside. Hour south of SF, awesome drive via the 1/84. Or 280 -> 92 -> skyline. Plenty of automotive enthusiasts congregate there.

Sounds like something rotating. BLOW HER UP AND GET THE WARRANTY WOOO

Clock all bushings, torque all bolts, and get an expensive alignment where the tech takes his time!

No problem. Just type “Mustang 20x10 +35” you’ll get plenty of fitment industries results with photos. Many cars with PP Brembos. Unless yours has a strange barrel/spoke design you have nothing to worry about.

Nothing a grinder and bolt on spacers can’t solve. Edit: some quick fitment googling says you’re good to go. But if you own them already - just test fit??

Euros are badass, but I have NEVER had a good time with aftermarket lighting though. +1 for Ford Performance euros.

Terrifying, what did the oil look like? How much came out the car? Direct injection is loud which can be unsettling if you aren’t expecting it. Fingers crossed the noises and oil pressure light is a fluke.

It’s a few hours to replace, I replaced with the revised thicker washer. If you have the noise it’s worth the $15 gamble to silent the car.! @WildHorse can advise on his experience leaving it out. I’ve never done so.

That thrust washer might be the issue as well. It’s literally there to take up the slack between the axle/knuckle. If it’s mashed you might be getting small amounts of movement at speed! I’d inspect and torque bushings first though lol.

Inspect the rear bushings (LCA/toe rod especially). Stuff was especially dicey for me when the LCA wasn’t torqued fully as well. I’d suggest making sure everything is torqued and “clocked” properly. Alternatively - get the car measurements read at another rack. Your current readings don’t...

we’ve essentially got the same car, I definitely want to experience the car with 3.73s. With the 3.15 I have winding out 2nd and 3rd is real fun. The car “loses” that steam into 4th/5th though. It’s also hopeless roll wise if it isn’t hit beyond 4500RPM

Ford PP3. perfectly fine driveability, no real extra power under 5k RPM. It makes cool crackle noises and fixed my broken IMRC issue that I had to fix due to California though!