Yes.
The brace is just an added brace you’re good to go.
Are you a victim of the suspiciously high torque spec on those nuts? I just hit it with hand tight and a little shove with a 1/2 ratchet and call it lol.
Definitely - it’s not killing tires early but it’s certainly at-least biasing wear on the inner half of the tire. Especially if you’re not driving spiritedly often.
The issue here and mine is toe though! Camber related wear doesn’t bother me on this vehicle.
I think it’s the toe that really kills that inner shoulder. I just had a big thread on it (and I haven’t done an alignment yet).
Camber will wear the entire inner half of your tire more aggressively but shouldn’t decimate anything like toe does.
On a serious note aren’t shifter installs a trans out thing on these cars? I’d get your bang for the buck and do a fresh clutch/flywheel if you’re doing all that.
My noise just came back, it’s a clear clink when you change direction at low speeds in my experience.
I’m going to be trying to crank on my axle nut again before I replace it once more. I have the revised “beefy” ones on.
In his defense the front bar SUCKED to install. I couldn’t get it pushed along the kframe solo for like 20 minutes.
My steeda front links are missing the “nut” on the boot end to hold it still while you torque it so I just impacted the shit out of it after getting gudentight with a...
+1 on overseize.
thread plug until you feel it seat on head and then apply the gudentight torque spec of another 1/8-1/4 turn via 3/8 ratchet. It’s a winning formula that has never caused me an issue.
The idea is cool, but I’d be worried the custom wheels that aren’t being rigorously tested like a company that’s manufacturing a specific set of designs (reps or not).
of course if your Mustang is just for cruising and your area’s road infrastructure is well kept - if it’s round it rolls, but...