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About a month ago I ordered a forged short block - short version was it was going to take a long time to get it. Fast forward I have a 2016 block and crank I am going to build myself. Darton sleeves, Molnar rods already in hand. Looking for piston and comp ratio suggestions. Plan on this motor...

Anyone here done this? Is it really needed? What kind of power with no issues are guys running with the 11mm's?

Looking for a set of heads from a 15-17.

This is a post Ben made on FB. I know people ask a lot of questions in here about his transmissions so I thought this post would help. I have one of his TR6060's and it is killer!! Break down of Calimer’s Transmission Stage 1, 2 & 3 and frequently asked questions. Stage 1: Bronze shift pads...

Like title says - full set of 8 ID 1300[s. These were put in a motor on a engine dyno - ran approx 30 times - pulled and cleaned. $1025.00 shipped.

If anyone in thinking about moving from a P1X or a D1 up to something different I would be interested in talking to them first about getting the head unit only.

Anyone thinking about FI over the winter, I will be selling a semi-complete Procharger HO kit over the winter at a reasonable price. This Summer I converted from the HO kit to the Stage two kit and have all the HO brackets, filter, inlet, instructions you would need. I am wanting more so I plan...

I have a complete brand new drag wheel and tire setup for sale Fronts - Darkstars 18x5's with M&H Racemasters 28/4.50/18's - will clear Brembo's Rears - Darkstars 17x9.5's with Hoosier 28/10/17's Everything is BRAND NEW - never even mounted on car. Mounted and balanced with caps and lug nuts -...

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Looking to move beyond my current P1SC-1 head unit. Interested in someone that is selling their PC kit or entire car that have a P1X, D1SC-1 or DX1 head unit that would entertain a swap for perfectly a fine P1SC-1 head unit + cash.

First off I want to thank Jay-rod427 for pushing me to dig further. In my original post https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104585 I was having some issues toward the top of the rpm range and boost jumping all over the place. Thought it was a belt (which it still may be) or BOV...

Can anyone show pics of where they mounted theirs and what it took to get it in place? Thanks

Well finally got the car done and back out. Lot of delays do to work and personal issues. Was looking to max out my P1SC-1...not sure if I did or not. I was running the 3.4" pulley on the 6 rib setup. Talked with PC and let them know I was switching to the 8 rib stage 2 and wanted to push the P1...

Like the title says. Did not break the tab but the 7mm bolt will not tighten up on the drivers side. Just spins, stripped I assume. Anyone else have this issue and come up with a fix?

Doing some calcs... anyone know the size of the stage ll crank pulley on procharger?

What's the smallest pulley you guys have ran on the P1SC-1 stage ll. And boost psi if known. Looking at 3.85"

Adding a few things to the car. Took front clip off tonight and this was just dangling by the IC on the pass side. Any idea what it is?

Issue resolved

Here is link to MAKs site http://www.makperformance.com/2015-2017-Mustang-GT-MAK-Hurricane-Procharger-Inlet-Pipe-Kit-for-HO-Supercharger-Kits_p_561.html Price on mine $140 + shipping. Few scratches down low after the bend. Works great ...picked up 1 psi of boost. Switching to stage ll setup...

Switching from the HO kit to the stage 2 drive. I have noticed the 8 rib drive pulley's are doubled keyed. At what point are both key ways needed? My P1 is single keyed.