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The title pretty much sums it up. I already have an H-pipe, and I personally prefer the sound of an H over an X. Has anyone found a way to make them fit up to stock-style midpipes?

This is going to sound naive, but what is the benefit of a "flex filter"? Isn't the stock fuel filter designed for the ethanol content in modern gasoline? Or is this more of a flow restriction thing for builds chasing quad digit HP numbers?

I'll second this. I run these on every performance car I have and they've been very good to me. They're not quite at the PS4S level, but they're close enough that you won't notice a difference 99% of the time. It's basically Continental's best tech from 10 years ago.

I bought it secondhand but unused, but am suspecting it may have been a knockoff based on this thread. The driver's side was definitely off by more. I managed to get it all lined up by taking tension off the bolts and running them back in a cross pattern, then incrementally torquing to 10% over...

As others mentioned, a 36mm socket did the trick. Didn't have to pull the knuckles, and it took about 2hrs to r&r both with it.

This is plan A. I'm getting the axle nuts and other items so I can R&R the hubs as plan B, but I'm hoping that I can do it on the car.

I don't think I did, but I'll check that when I get back under the car tomorrow. It hasn't been a good day for mods lol

Sadly, I didn't have enough Ford point for these. But thank you, I'll swing by Lowe's and check. I want a press, but I'm about to move a few states over and am trying to minimize the things I need to haul lol. I may do it, but I haven't pulled the knuckles on mine before and am not entirely...

I'm sitting here working on another project, and just noticed my (apparently knockoff) BMR subframe braces dont seem to be sitting flush to the subframe. Is this correct, or do I need to redo this?

Also, this job isn't an easy one without a full lift. If you can swing it, I'd suggest you have a shop do it if you aren't well equipped.

I'm knee deep in this job right now, and figured I'd share what I'm learning while failing to accomplish the OEM bearing removal. The OEM bearing's outer sleeve external diameter is 1.927", and the ID is roughly 1.8". The FRPP bearing sleeve's OD is the same 1.927", but the ID is about 1.55"...

I figured out they go on the underside of the forward subframe mount. Thank you so much!

Hey yall, I've got my car on stands and just now realized that CB005 instructions have no mention of the pictured piece. Does anyone know where it goes? Thank you so much

That's why I'm asking. Theyre not mentioned in there at all, and nobody seems to ever talk about them here.

202lb/in fronts, 672lb/in rear. As for height, i'd rather a .75-1" drop, but these are the springs I picked up in a package deal, so I'm trying to see if theyre worth it, or if I need to trade or sell them and get frpp springs

Hey all. So I have a set of Whiteline lowering springs in my garage, and an alignment scheduled for next week. I'm debating if it's worth putting these on. My issues with them are twofold: It may be a bit too low at a 1.4" drop up front, with 1.2" in the rear. I don't want to negatively affect...

Ah, I misunderstood. I thought that was to scale the valves based on the exhaust mode, not based on the drive mode. I think I understand now. Thank you!

Also, one more question whenever you have the time, do you happen to know if you can change the exhaust mode linked to a drive mode using the basic PCMtec software? Or is that a customOS feature?

I'm actually gonna be digging into this a lot more in a couple weeks/months. I believe you steered me towards your solution a few weeks back when I was polling for opinions about PCMtec, but I'm starting to get antsy and may not be able to hold out much longer haha. My rule of thumb is to keep...

I'm well aware, but sometimes it's nice to have it just bump down a gear or two if I'm descending a hill that comes back up, and don't want to be in 8th or higher when I start climbing again. You can also pull and hold the right shifter for 3 seconds to take it out of manual mode without leaving...