Back from the body shop. Gouge area filled and sanded smooth. They chose a light color of filler just in case the new blue stripe has any transparency to it at all. (We checked - it doesn't.)After almost 3 years I finally am repairing the booboo at the front of my hood. The hood lost an argument with the garage door while the car was jacked up with the hood open. There was a bracket that gouged a shallow ditch into the hood.
I cut out a section of the clear film and stripe using the pictured tool set to a precise depth that won't quite cut through both layers. I taped a thin flexible steel ruler to the hood to use as a straight edge guide. Then with a little heat gun help I pulled out the section and it tore at the score lines. Whew!
Next I drive the car to the body shop to drop off the hood. They will fill/sand the ditch, but without paint. The remaining stripes/film acts the same as masking off the area. Then it's off to the clear film folks for new stripes and film.
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Sinister is what comes to mind. Very nice. I am partial to the black with red accents.I had it painted! I bought the car 3/7/20. On the same date this year I put it in the paint shop. I've known the painter for over 20 years. He's like a brother. Factory color was Shadow Black. I painted it House of Kolors Jet Black with a custom Red blended batch I created from them, I named BMW Blood. The paint scheme was my painters creativity. I had no idea what he would do other than it would it be Black with Red accents. Im happy with the results. Its hard to record the final results or get pics, I tried to stay out of the reflection but it's impossible.![]()
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Looks fantastic.After careful consideration of the feedback from a previous post of mine, I decided to get the SVE x500’s for my wheels 19x10 square with 285/35/r19 Continental DW06’s
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Looks nice close up. Do you have any pics from a distance? I've been considering the same on my ingot silver car as well.Decided to try out the Ford Performance Clear Tail Light Kit. I think It looks decent on ingot silver.
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I would. They probably look similarI have the Steeda rails also that I installed about 4 years ago. My winters are similar to yours so I guess I should to a look![]()
Looks nice close up. Do you have any pics from a distance? I've been considering the same on my ingot silver car as well.
Anything that goes under the car should be made of stainless steel, like headers are. Aluminum is not a solution to salty conditions. It won't last as long as the steel did. Make them yourself.

Was there any rust transfer to the underbody?Well, I started to swap out my Steeda jacking rails for my new ZL1 Addons rails. Driver side came off and went on easy, 15 minutes and done. The passenger side Steeda rail is still on. It’s rusted on the inside of one of the bolt holes, the bolt is basically stuck. Tried by hand, impact, won’t budge. So, my rusty Steeda rail stays on for now, until I have more time to mess with it. I don’t like to air negative stuff publicly too often, but the way the Steeda rails held up is very disappointing. My Steeda IRS brace bolts are rusting already as well. I understand our winters are harsh with the salt, but to this is not acceptable to me.
ZL1 makes theirs in aluminum so they won’t rust. Maybe some other aftermarket companies should take note and follow suit for those of us in rust prone areas…
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