UPR Billet Oil Drain Plug - Thoughts?

[NPTR]

Seeking thoughts on this UPR Billet Aluminum Oil Drain Plug...only looking for thoughts on this dual O-ring model (UPR-3025-01), NOT the version with the valve or single O-ring. I have seen several threads on other Mustang models here, but nothing GT350 specific that solely addresses my question/concern...and given our engine's unique vibration levels vs. other Mustangs, I wanted to get ONLY GT350 owner thoughts, and only thoughts from those with personal experience (not rumors / anecdotes).

Like some other folks newer to this generation of Mustang, I was appalled to find out that the plug was plastic when I was doing my first oil change. I quickly assumed UPR would be a high quality solution. I did some research before buying/purchasing this, and got comfy with the swap. I wanted something higher quality, easier to grab/turn, more durable, and re-usable. I also assumed all issues were with UPR's earlier, single O-ring model, that were fixed/corrected with the newer version. However, it has recently come to my attention through another thread here that folks still had issues with this newer version, actually blowing the plug out of the pan. Some speculate this is due to varying expansion/contraction rates of the materials (metal vs plastic). I've heard some others say they can vibrate themselves loose given the heavier weight vs stock. I've decided I'm going to swap back to an OEM plug on my next oil change...but that's not due for another 12 months, so I'm now debating...do I drain the oil and pull this thing, or just leave it on and swap at the next change...essentially, how big of a gamble is this UPR plug? I am not tracking the car, but I definitely drive her hard when I do (usually 30-60 min spirited drives)...

Would love to hear from members who actually have first hand experience...did you have issues with this newer model, how did it happen, what exactly happened, etc. I don't want to turn this into a UPR vs OEM debate - I'm switching back, it's not worth the risk to me anymore...I'm now just wondering, what kind of a gamble is this?

Thank you all for your thoughts!

-Chris

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[ZX3ST]

I had one. I didn't have an issue with blowing out of the pan, but it did launch the magnet into my oil pan. Went back to stock plugs and just replace them ever 2-3 oil changes. They're cheap.

My 2 cents: Stick with stock. It works fine.

In the meantime, for your usage, I wouldn't bother with it until I were due for the next oil change.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

I have them in my 350, 500, and my wife's bronco. Zero issue's. I'd prefer they all had regular oil pan bolts where I could use fumoto valves. I use those in everything else I have and have for years.

 

[NPTR]

I had one. I didn't have an issue with blowing out of the pan, but it did launch the magnet into my oil pan. Went back to stock plugs and just replace them ever 2-3 oil changes. They're cheap.

My 2 cents: Stick with stock. It works fine.

In the meantime, for your usage, I wouldn't bother with it until I were due for the next oil change.

That's a new issue I hadn't heard of before...just another reason for me to make the change back to stock...but I tend to agree with you, not worth making the swap until next oil change (unless I hear legit nightmare stories from others in my use case)...thanks for your feedback!

 

[galaxy]

I’m typically not this guy and all for the mods, but on this topic…if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. There’s absolutely zero issues with the stock plug…show me one that’s failed.

Agree with Charlie too…I’ve got Fumoto on everything.

 

[JAJ]

I made this post last December:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ronin-oil-drain-plug.118401/post-3893186

The basic message is "don't use anything other than the OEM plug on a Voodoo"

 

[NPTR]

I hear you guys - and I agree with you now, but that’s not really what I’m getting at…I acknowledge the issue and am 100% going back to stock…my question is more so on the “gamble” of leaving it on until my next oil change. I’m not tracking the car, just 30/40 min spirited back road drives. If it’s a ticking time bomb type thing, I’ll happily swap it. If it’s a super low risk and only really happens when guys are hard on track at max oil temps, then I’ll leave it and swap with my next oil change.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

I wouldn’t be concerned with it if its properly installed. Its funny, and not funny ha ha, but when there’s a failure of just about any kind the first thing that’s blamed is the part. More times then not most of this stuff is operator error. Over the years I’ve known many that busted the plug off in the pan from over torqueing. Same goes for those that blamed the plug for leaking but never changed the ring or the actual plug itself. Then theres those that would not pay attention and install a filter with the old oil gasket still on. Or didn’t properly tighten the filter and it leaked. You get the picture which I’m sure you already know.

I hear you guys - and I agree with you now, but that’s not really what I’m getting at…I acknowledge the issue and am 100% going back to stock…my question is more so on the “gamble” of leaving it on until my next oil change. I’m not tracking the car, just 30/40 min spirited back road drives. If it’s a ticking time bomb type thing, I’ll happily swap it. If it’s a super low risk and only really happens when guys are hard on track at max oil temps, then I’ll leave it and swap with my next oil change.

 

[CrazyHippie]

Seeking thoughts on this UPR Billet Aluminum Oil Drain Plug...only looking for thoughts on this dual O-ring model (UPR-3025-01), NOT the version with the valve or single O-ring. I have seen several threads on other Mustang models here, but nothing GT350 specific that solely addresses my question/concern...and given our engine's unique vibration levels vs. other Mustangs, I wanted to get ONLY GT350 owner thoughts, and only thoughts from those with personal experience (not rumors / anecdotes).

Like some other folks newer to this generation of Mustang, I was appalled to find out that the plug was plastic when I was doing my first oil change. I quickly assumed UPR would be a high quality solution. I did some research before buying/purchasing this, and got comfy with the swap. I wanted something higher quality, easier to grab/turn, more durable, and re-usable. I also assumed all issues were with UPR's earlier, single O-ring model, that were fixed/corrected with the newer version. However, it has recently come to my attention through another thread here that folks still had issues with this newer version, actually blowing the plug out of the pan. Some speculate this is due to varying expansion/contraction rates of the materials (metal vs plastic). I've heard some others say they can vibrate themselves loose given the heavier weight vs stock. I've decided I'm going to swap back to an OEM plug on my next oil change...but that's not due for another 12 months, so I'm now debating...do I drain the oil and pull this thing, or just leave it on and swap at the next change...essentially, how big of a gamble is this UPR plug? I am not tracking the car, but I definitely drive her hard when I do (usually 30-60 min spirited drives)...

Would love to hear from members who actually have first hand experience...did you have issues with this newer model, how did it happen, what exactly happened, etc. I don't want to turn this into a UPR vs OEM debate - I'm switching back, it's not worth the risk to me anymore...I'm now just wondering, what kind of a gamble is this?

Thank you all for your thoughts!

-Chris

Hi. After all that I've read about after-market oil plugs, stock seems to be the best choice.

1. This is a part that is only seen during oil changes.
2. No reports of stock plug failing.
3. Managing oil flow when draining is very simple with the stock plug.
4. Replacing the stock plug every three or four oil changes is inexpensive.

And I would wait until the next oil change to switch back.

So, the ROI takes years and the risk/reward ratio is too high. I'm just as hooked by modding my Mustang as others, but this is something that I'm leaving stock.

Food for thought........

 

[NPTR]

I’m really not trying to turn this into a UPR vs stock debate…that debate is already resolved for me. So I greatly appreciate the input and am not trying to be a ***k but am trying to keep this to advice on whether it’s worth leaving UPR in for now and pulling at next oil change, or pulling ASAP (oil just changed) in my use case. But I agree with all of the above, hence my decision to toss the UPR in the garbage. Question is just when, not if.

Agree on the above re: user error, sure that can be a big part of this…but also as said above, for a cheap part not seen, risk/reward ain’t worth it. So it’s coming out.

My gut right now based on the above is, leave it for now and swap next change…but open to all opinions / thoughts on that - thank you!

 

[chuckhammer]

If it's a big concern to leave it in until your next oil change, and you have access to a vacuum pump, you have another option. Pull the engine oil dipstick and hook a vacuum hose up to the hole, sealed around the opening. Once you pull a vacuum it will suspend the oil in the sump well enough for you to remove the UPR plug and swap in the OEM plug without losing any oil or making a mess.

Please note that I have not seen this done on a Coyote/Voodoo/Predator with their larger diameter drain holes. Only seen it done on a conventional metal oil pan with a ~1/2" diameter drain hole. I suppose it's possible that the vacuum pulled through the dipstick hole might not be strong enough to suspend the oil with the larger drain hole. Not sure.

 

[NPTR]

If it's a big concern to leave it in until your next oil change, and you have access to a vacuum pump, you have another option. Pull the engine oil dipstick and hook a vacuum hose up to the hole, sealed around the opening. Once you pull a vacuum it will suspend the oil in the sump well enough for you to remove the UPR plug and swap in the OEM plug without losing any oil or making a mess.

Please note that I have not seen this done on a Coyote/Voodoo/Predator with their larger diameter drain holes. Only seen it done on a conventional metal oil pan with a ~1/2" diameter drain hole. I suppose it's possible that the vacuum pulled through the dipstick hole might not be strong enough to suspend the oil with the larger drain hole. Not sure.

Interesting...will consider that as an option vs draining / replacing, if it comes to that...thank you!

 

[boB]

If you have a helper or are really quick you may only lose a quart or two of oil swapping drain plugs. Do the swap when the oil is cold, jack up the rear of the car to help, wear gloves, and expect to get oil on you even at best case.

 

[DougS550]

I have flow control drain valves on all of my cars. Controlling the flow or be able to take oil samples without draining all of the oil or making a mess. It's just a preference I like.

 

[UPRjoe]

I’m really not trying to turn this into a UPR vs stock debate…that debate is already resolved for me. So I greatly appreciate the input and am not trying to be a ***k but am trying to keep this to advice on whether it’s worth leaving UPR in for now and pulling at next oil change, or pulling ASAP (oil just changed) in my use case. But I agree with all of the above, hence my decision to toss the UPR in the garbage. Question is just when, not if.

Agree on the above re: user error, sure that can be a big part of this…but also as said above, for a cheap part not seen, risk/reward ain’t worth it. So it’s coming out.

My gut right now based on the above is, leave it for now and swap next change…but open to all opinions / thoughts on that - thank you!

Just wanted to chime in and say we have only seen a couple of drain plugs that were not installed properly have an issue as we have sold tens of thousands of these drain plugs and to only have a few issues is proof how great the product functions when everything is done properly.

That said, we stand behind all our products and have even developed a new UPR Speed Drain Valve that locks into the factory oil pan tabs. The new design requires a firm push and light twist during installation to make sure you are past the tabs on the wavelock washer and fully engaged.

This new UPR Speed Drain Valve design is taking over our previous designs as it also has a new patent pending feature that allows the valve to remain stationary and does not move in or out on the exterior of the oil pan and offers much more clearance and ease of operation.

The new unit even has a UPR engraved dust cover as well. Viton O-rings all the way around to boot.

I hope this helps anyone decide more easily and that UPR stands behind its products with confidence.

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