Suggestion for engine upgrade and to keep it daily use??

[rolfe.oliver]

Daily and 1500whp are not in the same sentence. With turbos, that is possible since you can just turn off the boost controller. FFRE is king-daddy for coyotes right now. They seem to have the most repeatable clearances and quality control. You will need their Stage 3 sleeved gen 3 motor. You can spring for the Predator block upgrade, but unless you are racing a lot, you will be fine with coyote block.

Don't "daily" more than 700-800whp. There is simply no reason to stress things out. Who is your tuner? What transmission do you have? The issue is that the parts required for 1,500-1,700hp are not good on the street. To make that power, you will need something like an ID1700X injector. The problem is that those injectors don't like pump gas very well, so are you going to run E85 every day? You'll need a Fore triple pump return-style fuel system with three 285 pumps. If you are 10r80, then you will need a fully built Midnight trans, and even then, the 10r80s don't last more than a season at that power.

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[Zrussian13]

Summary on the video. The A6 car shifted out of first gear in maybe about 3.96 seconds at close to 33mph I have been told my throttle was only at 20% by some magical eyeball. So then the question is how long should a person expect the car to be in "first gear" for quick launch before shifting to second on an unprepared street surface if it is 'only' using the first gear and available to it? First gear is a short gear and the car will never hit 60mph in first. On normal driving the car would shift out of first as soon as it can, it will also do this either to gain traction if you're spinning in first. I said my car even on the All Seasons Michelin dead hooks "good" in first. I posted a video of a good hook from a dead stop using strictly first gear. Now the goal post has moved to whether my video was done at full throttle or 20% when the video shows me stepping on it and not actually babying it strictly in first. The car held first gear till maybe 33mph without losing traction while stepping on it. I showed a boosted car being forced to hold first gear from standstill, stepping on it till it then shifts out of it on its own. It did it in about 3.96 if my estimate is right. In the future especially this summer, I will do similar tests with other tires. You can all go do the same with first gear with boosted cars, hold the gear and see if you can launch fast in it. If you cannot, the car tires are spinning, traction control is flashing for you then the video will make more sense to you as to what my original point was.

OP, sorry to derail your thread. This is just the internet. With all that said and how much flack even my comment caused, you can see what life will be trying to use 1500whp on the street. Second gear may even be an issue for you and you may never be able to leave fast from a dead stop on the street so most of that power will be 'useless' if you can't launch in those gears on the street. Spinning isn't winning. You'll be stuck with roll racing at very high speeds only and with constant fear of losing control.

I'm sure 20% was an exaggeration but 33mph in 3.96 seconds definitely isn't a boosted s550 deadhooking in first. It's either a lot of spin or little pedal input.

 

[Kabayo]

Where are you actually using 1500 daily? Turn it down to 7-800whp for true daily (you really standing on it light to light on the way to target?). Turn it up when needed. Id reach out to Tkm or rpg and ask what's holding that level and what they recommend for your intended use. All the time or sporadic etc..

Planning to keep stock ecu or standalone?

 

[Kabayo]

Well said Grim

 

[tdstuart]

Basically sleeved coyote block, rods, pistons, vavle springs, main studs, head studs, better head gaskets, and timing upgrades.

For timing upgrades not sure how crazy you need to go or if upgraded chains, boss tensioners, and metal tensioner arms would be good enough.

Sleeved coyote block for longevity. Preferably a gen 2 or 3. Or you could do a predator block and sleeve it.

Dont know what specific rods, pistons, or springs you would want. For studs get arp (obviously...). I know cometic is pretty big but Ive also heard of people using gt500 head gaskets and having good results. Looks like FFRE also orings there engines.


If you want someone else to build you a setup tkm, FFRE, and RPG are all good options.

Once you get into these high hp builds, things do fail even when properly built. So yes might want to back down to 900 or so when driving so you don't use all 1500 every time you get the itch. Also you will want to run some serious tires out the back at all times and boost by gear. The transmission will also need to be built obviously.

FFRE: https://www.fastforwardraceengines.com/platforms
There stage 3 is rated for 1500whp+.

 

[Badr R]

Thanks guys for the reply
I really learned alot from your comments
My setup has ID 1400
Now on e85 its 870 whp
I have modified transmission which can handle 1500

and actually am looking for faster and trying to keep it daily as iam entering some racing competition ( roll race not for drag at all)
If u think guys its not possible then i will aboard the idea unfortunately because my target to make it as fast as possible and keep it daily too

 

[andrewtac]

TKM, upgraded timing components, th400. Mine isn't making 1500 on boost alone, but has enough spray to push it there. Far from a daily, and it still has numerous issues I am sorting through. Hopefully it will get to a point where I can drive it without having to fix or modify something. I'd hate to depend on it to drive to work. At 1k plus, there is so much custom stuff that all needs to work together. I am considering standalone ecu next year, I'd consider it as well if you are going to 1500. Traction control that works would be very nice, hard to even do a pull without blowing up the tires.

 

[nnnnnn]

It sounds very lazy like TC is still on and it loosing/taking a bunch of power out , Sure doesn’t seem like it‘s giving you all 800hp. 2nd part of video you can see as it get happy and gives you a bunch of power up top. Have you unpluged the nanny cord and see how it feels ? With your full suspension set up ??
nice set up buy the look of your details.

I did a 60ft comparison with Traction control on vs off since you mentioned. Tires were 33psi. The car will have better 60ft with radials I'm sure or perhaps with tires aired down.

 

[engineermike]

@nnnnnn for future reference when people say they dead hook with X amount of power and Y tire that generally means with your foot to the floor and tc off.

 

[EFI]

my car from a dead stop hooks good even in first gear, no special tires except Michelin All Seasons

The video you posted determined that was a lie. We don't even need Maury for this one...

I have some of the best Michelin all seasons you can get, in 325 size no less. With just E85 and a tune I can destroy the tires from a dig. You with a PD blower ain't "dead" hooking till 3rd gear.

 

[nnnnnn]

@nnnnnn for future reference when people say they dead hook with X amount of power and Y tire that generally means with your foot to the floor and tc off.

@engineermike For a street car, not on a drag strip, what would you consider good dead hook? This is out of just out of curiosity. I already had plans to test a wide range of tires this summer. I was very impressed with the All Seasons personally, non aired down and no burn outs. What 60ft times would meet that definition in your opinion? is there a range of 60fts for a street tire or drag radial on a non prepared surface? On a street car, me personally, I would focus on 0 to 60mph as a good measure, anything in 2.0 to 2.5s range but I'm curious what's a good measure

 

[engineermike]

@nnnnnn , to most, “dead hook” means zero tire slip when zombie stomping the pedal with tc off. A stock gt on nitto rII’s will usually dead hook first on most surfaces. My ~850 rwhp car won’t dead hook rII’s until 5th gear. In levels of traction, I would say the slang is “dead hook”, “hazing the tires”, and “blowing them away”. If you have to modulate power using the pedal or tc to get traction, then none of these really apply. My disclaimer is that the slang may be different in different crowds, but “dead hook” is fairly universal.

 

[nnnnnn]

@nnnnnn , to most, “dead hook” means zero tire slip when zombie stomping the pedal with tc off. A stock gt on nitto rII’s will usually dead hook first on most surfaces. My ~850 rwhp car won’t dead hook rII’s until 5th gear. In levels of traction, I would say the slang is “dead hook”, “hazing the tires”, and “blowing them away”. If you have to modulate power using the pedal or tc to get traction, then none of these really apply. My disclaimer is that the slang may be different in different crowds, but “dead hook” is fairly universal.

When something is not measurable or well defined, it becomes very subjective to varying personal opinions. I do however understand your point. In the general sense, I've always thought of it as simply lack of tire spin or loss of traction during a launch.

 

[Angrey]

Here's the irony, you don't "daily" 1500 rwhp. With typical tires and wheels that you'll need for dailying a rear wheel drive car, you'll never make that much power on the street (at any speeds under 130 mph) or you'll make that much sauce and simply roast the tires anywhere and everywhere.

With sophisticated traction control (either a boost by gear on a turbo setup or MOTEC style system) it will limit the production of the car, otherwise you'll end up wrapped around a light pole, in a median or intermixed with other vehicle parts.

Could you run a tubbed car on slicks and skinnies "daily?" I guess you could, God bless you in the rain. Hell, even setting up an auto for such a thing becomes laughably annoying in street use (ever seen someone try to parallel park a rowdy auto with a high stall coverter? Or get in an out of a mall parking lot?)

You can build the car to handle 1500 hp, but in all practicalities, you'll want to tone that down significantly while you're on the daily.

Even if you have the motor choked with controllers or traction management, the motor will rarely see 1500 hp duty because it simply hazes the tires and murders traction. You might see that much power/torque when the multiplication for the trans is virtually nothing (like 4th gear and above at deep triple digits). Anything other than that is just spin city, especially on "daily" wheel/tire setups.

 

[Sins550]

Built sleeved short block rated for 1500+
Fully Built + Ported Heads (with valve work)
Ask your builder and tuner about Cam options, lockouts and what they prefer
Billet Cam Caps (why not)
Id1700x+
ARP head studs
PAC Valve springs
Titanium Retainers
Upgraded Head Gaskets
ATI Super Damper
GT350 Primary timing chains
Upgraded Secondary chains
Boss tensioners
Billet Tensioner Guides/Arms (Maybe? Many seem to have them but then some of the big 1700hp- 2000hp cars are also using stock ones so idk what to believe. They're 400 bucks in a $30,000+ build, why not)
MMR Flip brackets
Billet Intake manifold
Fully Built trans
A very good boost controller and the option to run C02/onboard air
A new Tune
...is what i'd consider a 1500+ ready car

I also wouldn't daily this car. For a daily I'd want to touch as less as possible. It's not always about stuff blowing up, but more so the little things like hoses popping off/stuff randomly not working properly that ends up leaving you sweating on the side of the road. Plus it'd be a pain in the ass planning your day around the weather due to required tire choice, work traffic and E85 availability while getting 10mpg in a car whose fuel system hates life under half a tank.

For a daily I'd do head studs and valve springs at most while keeping it under 900whp and call it a day.

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