This is what shop manual calls for and it makes no differentiation between Trak-lok or Torsen :BG is recommending I go with 75/140, even though I'll never track my car. I live in a hot climate (TX), but I think their 75W-90 would be more than enough IMO. Thoughts? Hey Mike, what's the official correct level for the Torsen? I don't know who to believe with the fill amount. The Motorcraft official fluid document calls for 2-qts, my owner's manual 1.7 qts (with the FM added), and BG 1.8 qts. And BG includes a plastic dipstick that looks like a zip-tie with a 90-deg bend and a dab of paint. Comments welcome.
Changing the fluid in anything that has metal on metal contact after its initial break in period is smart. Not because the fluid breaks down, but because the most metal will be removed from the surfaces as they mate together in those first few thousand miles. As this happens the metal particles are constantly being circulated through the bearings in the diff and the transmission. You want to remove those particles from the oil so that the bearings aren't constantly subject to the grit in the oil. Wait a few thousand miles then change the fluid. (and clean the magnets on the drain plugs) After that, your good to go for a long time.Hey gang, with less than 3 quarts in the tranny, and less than 2 in the Torsen, it should be quite cheap to replace the fluid in both. I've read in every instance that the diff fluid always comes out nasty, so with such an expensive differential (and with no filter), why not change it along with the first or second oil change? And the tranny is not the most robust manual, so it'd also benefit from new fluid without all the break-in crap (and possible test-drive abuse), no? The good news is Torsens have both drain and fill plugs, so zero mess. Hope the fluids are not that expensive, but there're only 5 total.
I'm planning to change the oil around 1k miles (350 now), before a long trip in July. It might be too early to change the tranny and differential at 1K too, but maybe by the second oil change 5K miles later. Those definitely produce a lot more break-in crap than the engine, especially the differential, so why not give them fresh fluid early in their lives, so they live longer and healthier?.
JC
Shoot its been a long time so I don’t remember the exact distance below the fill hole but I’m thinking it was something like 8mm-ish. You’ll have to find the number somewhere else. But I also went through the 140 vs 75 weight debate and it’s worked out fine so far.Hey Mike, what's the official correct level for the Torsen? I don't know who to believe with the fill amount. The Motorcraft official fluid document calls for 2-qts, my owner's manual 1.7 qts (with the FM added), and BG 1.8 qts. And BG includes a plastic dipstick that looks like a zip-tie with a 90-deg bend and a dab of paint. Comments welcome
Yeah Ford fluid is 6cSt@100 which is pretty damn thin. Though the aftermarket is clustered around 8 which isn't really that far off. But in this case small changes have outsized effects I guess. I suspect the thinness is also another lame attempt to increase MPG and thus CAFE scores. Forget the protest of the day, I want the heads of the people who came up with CAFE and the ever more unreasonable movement of the goal posts' heads on a pike.
It's literally in two posts above yours (my post - direct quote from manual - 9mm for the diff).
Hey, thank you very much for your input. But have an important question for you: Did you use it in winter already? I don't want ANY issues in winter, since it gets in the 40s here for months too. I really like that your fluid meets Ford's spec. Will look it up.
. Thank you.Excellent! Thanks a lot for that info. It should help others too
.Excellent points; thank you very much too for your great help. Hey, do you have any info on Motorcraft's MT-82 additive? It's this: https://www.steeda.com/motorcraft-xl-18-mustang-mt82-transmission-additive . My other option is to stick with OEM, and add that additive... but not sure what it'd do. Steeda said Ford issued a TSB for that additive, but couldn't find absolutely anything. Maybe that's why D4s don't seem to benefit from BG SynchroShift II fluid, since Ford has been using DCT fluid since 2011.
The fluid was put in this past December and I have driven in below freezing temps but the car is garaged at night though. The coldest the car has been would be just being parked outside at work on those cold days. The “nibble” diminished over a few hundred miles and was nearly completely gone. It’s completely gone now but temps are warmer now. So I will have to wait and see how it is this winter. That’s as well as I can explain it and I’m just sharing my experience. I hope it helps.Hey, thank you very much for your input. But have an important question for you: Did you use it in winter already? I don't want ANY issues in winter, since it gets in the 40s here for months too. I really like that your fluid meets Ford's spec. Will look it up.
Oh, and one last question: What did you do for the quantity? Did you fill the tranny until fluid drained out? Or poured exactly the 2.7-qt quantity the manual calls for? Please provide details
I dont want to give you any bad info. I have no experience with either brand and I haven't swapped my diff fluid yet. Just want to be honest.
