Replacement axle nut different

[Blufc3s]

I am replacing my axle nuts 2015 GT PP.
The ones that the Ford dealer sold me are significantly different than the ones on the car. The new ones look like the ones sold on LMR.
The new ones have the right thread and 32mm nut size but the shoulder is significantly smaller in diameter.
Has anyone else experienced this?

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[moffetts]

They changed the design a long time ago.

 

[Blufc3s]

They changed the design a long time ago.

Thanks, wonder if the torque specs are the same?

 

[moffetts]

I don't think it changed, but a lot of people have problems with them coming loose. There's numerous, very long threads on here about it. Unofficially, the recommended torque is 150 plus 1/8 of a turn.

 

[Blufc3s]

I don't think it changed, but a lot of people have problems with them coming loose. There's numerous, very long threads on here about it. Unofficially, the recommended torque is 150 plus 1/8 of a turn.

Thanks, I’ll probably add some red loctite as well.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yup they’re different. Gave me pause when I replaced a hub last year.

replacement part hasn’t fallen off the car yet so you should be good.

 

[boB]

Ford specifies (2019 service manual) 85 lb*ft and 30 degrees. The nut already has thread locking compound applied.

 

[Blufc3s]

Ford specifies (2019 service manual) 85 lb*ft and 30 degrees. The nut already has thread locking compound applied.

Thanks

 

[El_Centenario]

Will be ordering a pair because the stock ones keep coming loose no mater how much red loctite I use.

 

[boB]

Will be ordering a pair because the stock ones keep coming loose no mater how much red loctite I use.

The question here is: did it really loosen? Did the nut actually turn from where it was installed? With red loctite this should be almost impossible. Or did the joint loosen? The joint (axle to hub) is a light press-fit splined connection, with almost no chance of rotational movement that would work to loosen the nut. It may be more likely that something in the joint compressed and in that case no nut, loctite, cotter pin, etc will prevent the problem.

 

[El_Centenario]

You definitely have a point there. I did mark the nut to see if it actually loosened up and it was right on the mark when I checked over the weekend. Would it be possible that I overtighten the nut causing the wheel hub to compress the bearing assembly? I check for play in the hub and it is definitely solid, no play in any direction. I just cant figure out where the popping/cracking noise is coming from. It occasionally does it when I back out of a parking and then move forward.

 

[boB]

It is not likely the bearing assembly is being compressed, maybe a soft washer, imperfect machining, ?

 

[Scott]

Yup they’re different. Gave me pause when I replaced a hub last year.

replacement part hasn’t fallen off the car yet so you should be good.

Say when you replaced your Hub, do you remember what the torques specifications were for the four 15mm bolts that secure the hub? Tried searching and have not been able to find it.

 

[moffetts]

Those are 98 foot pounds.

 

[Scott]

Those are 98 foot pounds.

Thanks!

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