Cmw458
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 166
- Reaction score
- 37
- Location
- Greensburg, pa
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Shadow black ford mustang ecoboost premium PP
Edited @shogun
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No, the Performance Package does nothing to HP, Torque curve, throttle response and mapping. It only tweaks the ABS, stability control, and adds wheels and suspension upgrades. Your engine and PCM are otherwise identical to base car.Would this FP tune be redundant to purchase if I already own a Performance Package 1 model?
You forgot the different axle and bigger radiator which it changes some characteristics in speed and acceleration.No, the Performance Package does nothing to HP, Torque curve, throttle response and mapping. It only tweaks the ABS, stability control, and adds wheels and suspension upgrades. Your engine and PCM are otherwise identical to base car.
Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.You forgot the different axle and bigger radiator which it changes some characteristics in speed and acceleration.
Thank your for your reply. I think I was lucky not to have those A10 issues yet.Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.
Before I got the FP tune, the 10 speed had this jerky thing where it would get stuck switching gears at low speed. Let say you are about to pull out and you apply throttle, then have to back off, then on again... leaving a parking lot onto a low speed street with traffic. It was extremely reproducible and something I had never felt with an automatic before. Combination of the D mode liking to shift too quickly out of 1st and the Diverter valve on the Mustang dumping all the boost when you go off the throttle...what is my point here? FP cal completely fixed this issue for me by raising the shift points and not being so eager to shift. Both D and S shift better, night and day.
Another improvement, the car no longer goes anemic after 5000 rpm. Pretune, the engine just gives up after 5k where the hp drops 50-100 hp and you’re just wasting time slowing down while the engine gets louder. FP cal keeps the power out to 5500 and even at 6000, you still have good power; instead of dropping it’s just flat at 6000.
Stock tune has a tendency to close the throttle body to 30% quite often even when you are WOT on pedal. Makes for a very inconsistent experience in addition to the intercooler business. The PCM can be triggered by a ton of things since it’s very conservative and will cut power multiple ways via either throttle body, cut boost, cut engine timing.
I didn’t datalog so I can’t be sure if and when there is more boost. According to my Boost gauge on the dash, I’ve always been around 20 ish going full out. Ford should have sold the car like this... Ford cal + intercooler is a different car. One thing that is very different is the 30-60 feel.Thank your for your reply. I think I was lucky not to have those A10 issues yet.
Do you mind if I ask, have you seen a higher boost with this tune?
I’m incline to do the tune, but still waiting to see if there’s any issues with it.
Makes sense, I live in FL so flat as a pancake.Regarding A10 issues, i am suspicious that Tucson with the elevation changes everywhere is a big component. Combine on/off throttle situations with a little incline and the car gets very “unhappy.” Downhill or flat, no problem.
Keep in mind that the FP cal is still very conservative. Many aftermarket tuners regard “safe” in the 350 to 400 whp region. Ford Tune should bump you from 260-265 to 280-285 whp.Makes sense, I live in FL so flat as a pancake.
I might wait another year.
Completely understand, I rarely use my car (4k miles in a yr), I want to wait a little bit, since warranty will go down from 60k/5yrs to 35k/3 yrs.Keep in mind that the FP cal is still very conservative. Many aftermarket tuners regard “safe” in the 350 to 400 whp region. Ford Tune should bump you from 260-265 to 280-285 whp.
I agree with you 100% on the intercooler. If the stock IC heatsoaks, it will cut between 20-50 hp.Completely understand, I rarely use my car (4k miles in a yr), I want to wait a little bit, since warranty will go down from 60k/5yrs to 35k/3 yrs.
Also I want to change intercooler and cat or axleback before installing the tune.
Here in Las Vegas the temps have been 105 - 110 degrees. So any drag mode impressions would probably be tainted. Even so, when I tried drag mode a few weeks ago the car chirps the tires when shifting, but the car did that even before the tune. I don't have any before/after 0-60 times.For you A10 guys, how's the tune in drag mode?
CXP:Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.
Before I got the FP tune, the 10 speed had this jerky thing where it would get stuck switching gears at low speed. Let say you are about to pull out and you apply throttle, then have to back off, then on again... leaving a parking lot onto a low speed street with traffic. It was extremely reproducible and something I had never felt with an automatic before. Combination of the D mode liking to shift too quickly out of 1st and the Diverter valve on the Mustang dumping all the boost when you go off the throttle...what is my point here? FP cal completely fixed this issue for me by raising the shift points and not being so eager to shift. Both D and S shift better, night and day.
Another improvement, the car no longer goes anemic after 5000 rpm. Pretune, the engine just gives up after 5k where the hp drops 50-100 hp and you’re just wasting time slowing down while the engine gets louder. FP cal keeps the power out to 5500 and even at 6000, you still have good power; instead of dropping it’s just flat at 6000.
Stock tune has a tendency to close the throttle body to 30% quite often even when you are WOT on pedal. Makes for a very inconsistent experience in addition to the intercooler business. The PCM can be triggered by a ton of things since it’s very conservative and will cut power multiple ways via either throttle body, cut boost, cut engine timing.