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2018-2019 Ford Performance Ecoboost Tune Released

Cmw458

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Min Ahn

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Would this FP tune be redundant to purchase if I already own a Performance Package 1 model?
 

Cxp

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Would this FP tune be redundant to purchase if I already own a Performance Package 1 model?
No, the Performance Package does nothing to HP, Torque curve, throttle response and mapping. It only tweaks the ABS, stability control, and adds wheels and suspension upgrades. Your engine and PCM are otherwise identical to base car.
 

320guy

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No, the Performance Package does nothing to HP, Torque curve, throttle response and mapping. It only tweaks the ABS, stability control, and adds wheels and suspension upgrades. Your engine and PCM are otherwise identical to base car.
You forgot the different axle and bigger radiator which it changes some characteristics in speed and acceleration.
 

Cxp

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You forgot the different axle and bigger radiator which it changes some characteristics in speed and acceleration.
Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.

Before I got the FP tune, the 10 speed had this jerky thing where it would get stuck switching gears at low speed. Let say you are about to pull out and you apply throttle, then have to back off, then on again... leaving a parking lot onto a low speed street with traffic. It was extremely reproducible and something I had never felt with an automatic before. Combination of the D mode liking to shift too quickly out of 1st and the Diverter valve on the Mustang dumping all the boost when you go off the throttle...what is my point here? FP cal completely fixed this issue for me by raising the shift points and not being so eager to shift. Both D and S shift better, night and day.

Another improvement, the car no longer goes anemic after 5000 rpm. Pretune, the engine just gives up after 5k where the hp drops 50-100 hp and you’re just wasting time slowing down while the engine gets louder. FP cal keeps the power out to 5500 and even at 6000, you still have good power; instead of dropping it’s just flat at 6000.

Stock tune has a tendency to close the throttle body to 30% quite often even when you are WOT on pedal. Makes for a very inconsistent experience in addition to the intercooler business. The PCM can be triggered by a ton of things since it’s very conservative and will cut power multiple ways via either throttle body, cut boost, cut engine timing.
 

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320guy

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Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.

Before I got the FP tune, the 10 speed had this jerky thing where it would get stuck switching gears at low speed. Let say you are about to pull out and you apply throttle, then have to back off, then on again... leaving a parking lot onto a low speed street with traffic. It was extremely reproducible and something I had never felt with an automatic before. Combination of the D mode liking to shift too quickly out of 1st and the Diverter valve on the Mustang dumping all the boost when you go off the throttle...what is my point here? FP cal completely fixed this issue for me by raising the shift points and not being so eager to shift. Both D and S shift better, night and day.

Another improvement, the car no longer goes anemic after 5000 rpm. Pretune, the engine just gives up after 5k where the hp drops 50-100 hp and you’re just wasting time slowing down while the engine gets louder. FP cal keeps the power out to 5500 and even at 6000, you still have good power; instead of dropping it’s just flat at 6000.

Stock tune has a tendency to close the throttle body to 30% quite often even when you are WOT on pedal. Makes for a very inconsistent experience in addition to the intercooler business. The PCM can be triggered by a ton of things since it’s very conservative and will cut power multiple ways via either throttle body, cut boost, cut engine timing.
Thank your for your reply. I think I was lucky not to have those A10 issues yet.

Do you mind if I ask, have you seen a higher boost with this tune?

I’m incline to do the tune, but still waiting to see if there’s any issues with it.
 

Cxp

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Thank your for your reply. I think I was lucky not to have those A10 issues yet.

Do you mind if I ask, have you seen a higher boost with this tune?

I’m incline to do the tune, but still waiting to see if there’s any issues with it.
I didn’t datalog so I can’t be sure if and when there is more boost. According to my Boost gauge on the dash, I’ve always been around 20 ish going full out. Ford should have sold the car like this... Ford cal + intercooler is a different car. One thing that is very different is the 30-60 feel.

Before if I would go WOT, 1st and 2nd would be good (mind you that only gets you to 30-35 mph in the 10 speed), then 3rd would kick in and the power would drop out. After FP cal + ATM, 3rd gear actually puts you back in the seat along with 4th gear :)

The FP cal encourages you to drive the car like a Mustang :)
 

Cxp

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Regarding A10 issues, i am suspicious that Tucson with the elevation changes everywhere is a big component. Combine on/off throttle situations with a little incline and the car gets very “unhappy.” Downhill or flat, no problem.
 

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Regarding A10 issues, i am suspicious that Tucson with the elevation changes everywhere is a big component. Combine on/off throttle situations with a little incline and the car gets very “unhappy.” Downhill or flat, no problem.
Makes sense, I live in FL so flat as a pancake. :crackup:

I might wait another year.
 

Cxp

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Makes sense, I live in FL so flat as a pancake. :crackup:

I might wait another year.
Keep in mind that the FP cal is still very conservative. Many aftermarket tuners regard “safe” in the 350 to 400 whp region. Ford Tune should bump you from 260-265 to 280-285 whp.
 

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320guy

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Keep in mind that the FP cal is still very conservative. Many aftermarket tuners regard “safe” in the 350 to 400 whp region. Ford Tune should bump you from 260-265 to 280-285 whp.
Completely understand, I rarely use my car (4k miles in a yr), I want to wait a little bit, since warranty will go down from 60k/5yrs to 35k/3 yrs.

Also I want to change intercooler and cat or axleback before installing the tune.
 

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Completely understand, I rarely use my car (4k miles in a yr), I want to wait a little bit, since warranty will go down from 60k/5yrs to 35k/3 yrs.

Also I want to change intercooler and cat or axleback before installing the tune.
I agree with you 100% on the intercooler. If the stock IC heatsoaks, it will cut between 20-50 hp.
 

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For you A10 guys, how's the tune in drag mode?
 

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For you A10 guys, how's the tune in drag mode?
Here in Las Vegas the temps have been 105 - 110 degrees. So any drag mode impressions would probably be tainted. Even so, when I tried drag mode a few weeks ago the car chirps the tires when shifting, but the car did that even before the tune. I don't have any before/after 0-60 times.

On a separate, but related, note, most of the time the car is pretty damn responsive with the tune and pushes my head back in the seat. But there's the occasional "what happened?" moment when the car seems surprisingly lethargic. Maybe some combination of a certain RPM, temperature, gear, or whatever.
 

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Yes that’s true, those change things... not a replacement for a tune. The diff ratio being 3.55 will definitely help for acceleration but doesn’t address other issues with the stock tune that are directly holding the car back and ultimately make more of a difference.

Before I got the FP tune, the 10 speed had this jerky thing where it would get stuck switching gears at low speed. Let say you are about to pull out and you apply throttle, then have to back off, then on again... leaving a parking lot onto a low speed street with traffic. It was extremely reproducible and something I had never felt with an automatic before. Combination of the D mode liking to shift too quickly out of 1st and the Diverter valve on the Mustang dumping all the boost when you go off the throttle...what is my point here? FP cal completely fixed this issue for me by raising the shift points and not being so eager to shift. Both D and S shift better, night and day.

Another improvement, the car no longer goes anemic after 5000 rpm. Pretune, the engine just gives up after 5k where the hp drops 50-100 hp and you’re just wasting time slowing down while the engine gets louder. FP cal keeps the power out to 5500 and even at 6000, you still have good power; instead of dropping it’s just flat at 6000.

Stock tune has a tendency to close the throttle body to 30% quite often even when you are WOT on pedal. Makes for a very inconsistent experience in addition to the intercooler business. The PCM can be triggered by a ton of things since it’s very conservative and will cut power multiple ways via either throttle body, cut boost, cut engine timing.
CXP:
Thank you very much for this information, my 2019 EB Premium with the 10sp Auto is also doing the 'jerky' thing at low speeds, mostly in the first couple of gears.
I was happy to read that you found a solution with this tune install. I went ahead and ordered the tune today and joined the forum specifically to say thank you for your post.
I look forward to the arrival and installation of my FP cal. I really hope it gets rid of that 'instantanious coffee dump' that my car loves to do to me while leaving the drive thru.
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