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SJulian10mm

SJulian10mm

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Car is done, back from alignment. I'm sure ill have some sway bar/end-link adjustments and another round of rebound adjustments on the dampers to make. Car still looks bone stock from the outside other than the tow hook mount now poking out from the lower portion of the bumper cover. Have yet to drive it other than back from the alignment shop as ive had the flu for the past 2 days, but i did push the car through a right hand sweeping corner at speed and the front end felt much tighter (front control arms) whole car felt flatter (sway bars). Looks like Ill be heading to Thunderhill again sometime early next year. This time I will take the necessary tools to make track-side adjustments to the sway bars and end-links.

Next thing I want to tackle is oil pump gears. I am not supercharged and don't plan on it, at least not for a while, but I want insurance as warrente will be out next July and I do occasionally hit the rev limiter on the track.
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500ish miles later, have made a rear sway bar adjustment, rear end felt a little loose (too much over-steer) so moved the endlinks on the rear one hole (softer), seems to have tied the rear end down better. Really not going to know till next track day sometime in Feb. Otherwise new brakes are strong, front end feels tight as a drum with the new bearing-ed arms, though you feel everything...good for performance - bad for comfort luckily not a DD.
 
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Well another Thunder Hill day in the bag, got bumped up to B group. Car did great, was the fastest A group car/driver in the pack (there was a GT3 and GT350). I think I am going to kick the front camber to -2 and stiffen both sway bars (but keep the bias the same). Also cooked the stoptech posi quiet front pads...time for Hawk Race pads for track days.

Otherwise heading back on 26 April and again in either late May or early June.
 

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I am also considering some Aero stuff, such as Steeda Splitter and Steeda Race Wing....although I do hate the Idea of drilling my trunk lid, but no real way to get rear downforce without drilling the trunk lid.
 
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I am already aware I may be disappointed with the 555 g2s as they are not a Max Performance summer tire, I never had a complaint with the P-Zeros and may go back to them but in a 285/35 on these new wheels (They are far cheaper than the Michelin stuff)

I ordered Hawk HP+ pads all around, did not like the Posi Quiets, except that they are quiet, but less bite than the OEM pads and they are not up to the task of a track day.
 
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Well, last night, I finished adjusting the sway bars (stiffening) threw the new wheels/tires on and *&^%, my rear sub frame is out of alignment. Drivers side rear is poking a good 1/4 inch (camber 1.6) and passenger side rear is well tucked (camber 1.7). I have the Steeda sub-frame alignment inserts, but I guess they don't completely eliminate it all and require manual adjustment. Going back up on jack-stands tonight to see If I can get it moved over.
 
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Just spoke to Steeda, they said that if I have their alignment dowels in there, then there is no way my sub frame can be misaligned, and yet my rear end is all out of whack, so not sure what to do. I am still inclined to check it and see if it can be moved at all. I read elsewhere on the forum that this problem existed and the individual adjusted with the dowels in place. Any thoughts?
 

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Got it sorted, camber was way out of whack on that side. Steeda Camber arm jam nuts had loosened and the adjuster backed out, I probably had positive camber on that side.
 

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Thank you for the feedback & looking like you may have identified the issue.

Is there anything else we can help assist with?

TJ
 
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Just ordered the QuickTrick Xtreme, I am doing my own alignment. Tired of paying the alignment shop $190-230 to do an ok job and round off my jam nuts. Steeda would it be possible to get new camber arm and toe link jam nuts?
 
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Back to Thunderhill on the 26th of April.

Future plans: Before I do anything else I'm going to address safety with a Watson Bar. After that I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and go for the Full Tilt Boogie Diff Cooler setup, before diff heat becomes a problem as I am sure its going to as I get faster and faster, especially with the new wheels when I inevitably switch to a stickier tire after the NT555s are done.

After that ill probably get serious about down-force stuff or the supposed Steeda road course K-member coming out?
 
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Was ready to pull the trigger on a Watson Bar and Seat Delete through LMR (better price than Watson Direct). Unfortunately they are sold out of the Grey bars. So, bought the seat delete kit with the 7% St. Patrick day code, although I won't install it until I have the bar.
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