What oil are you using?

[Brice80]

The main reason why a lot of people have been using Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 has been it's black stone lab reports and it's group 4/5 add packs as well as its NOACK volatility rating vs. their 0w30 and 5w30 offerings.

Since then Amsoil has revised their 0w30, and has also created 0w40 and 5w50 which all use similar add packs and have been getting similar ratings. They have also revised their 5w20 and 0w20. Personally I would not run a 20 weight oil in a coyote if you drive it hard. The TiVCT system in the coyote is not similar to the VCT found in the 3v engines that required specific oil weights for activation reasons. The TiVCT found in the coyote engine is based off oil pressure which is controlled by an electronically controlled solenoid. Oil weight plays zero factor on this.

There is no difference in weight in a 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 at operating temp, the 0w, 5w, and 10w ratings are only weights at freezing.

Okay so if I never reach freezing what should I go with. I'm extremely confused on which oil to get now.... 5w20, 0w-20, what about something like the 0w-50 you said, why don't people use that more, if it's got no difference at op temps, but is thinner than others?

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[Process]

Okay so if I never reach freezing what should I go with. I'm extremely confused on which oil to get now.... 5w20, 0w-20, what about something like the 0w-50 you said, why don't people use that more, if it's got no difference at op temps, but is thinner than others?

It's really about the additive packs in the oils. There is even very little difference at freezing between a 0w and 5w oil. Usually 0w oils cost a bit more, thats mainly one reason why people don't run them. 0w oils also tend to shear a little faster in their life cycle.

Here is a viscosity curve of Amsoil 10w30 vs. 0w30 Signature Series.

 

[Brice80]

It's really about the additive packs in the oils. There is even very little difference at freezing between a 0w and 5w oil. Usually 0w oils cost a bit more, thats mainly one reason why people don't run them. 0w oils also tend to shear a little faster in their life cycle.

Here is a viscosity curve of Amsoil 10w30 vs. 0w30 Signature Series.

Okay so lets say I go with 0w since it literally doesn't seem to make a huge difference. Be easy on it until operating temps as usual, but even more so with this oil?

Also what about the 30 at the end, is that what ford says to put in it? I thought that was the thinness and stuff. how did you decide 30 or even 40 maybe, over 20 is my question.

 

[Process]

Okay so lets say I go with 0w since it literally doesn't seem to make a huge difference. Be easy on it until operating temps as usual, but even more so with this oil?

Also what about the 30 at the end, is that what ford says to put in it? I thought that was the thinness and stuff. how did you decide 30 over 20 is my question.

Ford recommends 5w20. But in 2013-2014 they spec'd 5w50 in their track pack models which are the same engine, just have an oil cooler. It was due to intended road course use.

The oil weight is all based on how you intend to use your car. If it's a grocer getter use 5w20, if you beat on it with bolt ons, use 5w30, if you have FI and really beat on it or use E85, I'd use 0w40 or 5w50. 5w50 mainly if you do road course sessions. I chose 0w40 Amsoil Signature Series due to it's lab reports, and the fact I run a lot of boost and E85. For years people have been running 30 weight oils in the coyote in modified cars without any issue. You live in Texas, if your car will just be a bolt on car, run 0w30 or 5w30. If you use it to just get groceries or if youre a grandma on your way to church and bingo, run 5w20.

Ford also recommends you do not modify your car, but people don't follow that either. Oil recommendations are no different. Ford engineers did not specify 5w20 for engineering purposes. Ford Accounts specified 5w20 to accommodate CAFE mileage standards.

 

[Brice80]

Ford recommends 5w20. But in 2013-2014 they spec'd 5w50 in their track pack models which are the same engine, just have an oil cooler. It was due to intended road course use.

The oil weight is all based on how you intend to use your car. If it's a grocer getter use 5w20, if you beat on it with bolt ons, use 5w30, if you have FI and really beat on it or use E85, I'd use 0w40 or 5w50. 5w50 mainly if you do road course sessions. I chose 0w40 Amsoil Signature Series due to it's lab reports, and the fact I run a lot of boost and E85. For years people have been running 30 weight oils in the coyote in modified cars without any issue.

Ford also recommends you do not modify your car, but people don't follow that either. Oil recommendations are no different. Ford engineers did not specify 5w20 for engineering purposes. Ford Accounts specified 5w20 to accommodate CAFE mileage standards.

Okay so now you're back to the 5w thing. so I have bolt ons, probably won't go more than that for a year or so while I save up. I might autocross a few times, but this is definitely my primary daily driver. it serves that purpose only. so maybe 5w30 like you had stated above.

Now I need to find out which darn brand. I wish they'd make it easier.:headbonk:

 

[Process]

Okay so now you're back to the 5w thing. so I have bolt ons, probably won't go more than that for a year or so while I save up. I might autocross a few times, but this is definitely my primary daily driver. it serves that purpose only. so maybe 5w30 like you had stated above.

Now I need to find out which darn brand. I wish they'd make it easier.:headbonk:

I prefer amsoil. It's a true group 4 synthetic unlike the standard mobil 1 and royal purple. RP does make a Group 4 oil though.

 

[Lowrider]

Okay so now you're back to the 5w thing. so I have bolt ons, probably won't go more than that for a year or so while I save up. I might autocross a few times, but this is definitely my primary daily driver. it serves that purpose only. so maybe 5w30 like you had stated above.

Now I need to find out which darn brand. I wish they'd make it easier.:headbonk:

As long as you keep checking your oil levels frequently and also frequently changing the oil based on hard driving at the track, you will be fine.

Remember its not the oil alone that matters but also the filter matters. Some say the stock filter is fine but again there is a race filter that costs more...I was told by a Ford tech to go with a race filter because it has more potential for filtering the shavings because of its magnet.

I frequently check my oil level during gas fill ups...Because I drive like I stole it

 

[Todd15Fastback]

Penzoil platinum 5w30 great reviews on bitog sold me.

Same here. I went with the Ultra platinum.

 

[Old Car Guy]

I'm......

The most crucial part of lubrication is at start up. If you are using a heavier weight than the manufactures recommended...You are likely having minimal wear on the internals due to the tolerances ...that is to say using 0w vs 5W....Just saying.

However, I'm surprised Mob1 works well for the Coyote yet in other motors like the Subaru EJ 257 it was a No-Go shitty oil.

I'm useing what ford says, to use...... Some think what the Ford engineers, have put on the Oil Cap, seem to think that the Ford engineers just put the 5-20 on that cap for the fun of it.......... Oh my I have seen a herd a lot on this OIL thing..... But I'm sticking with what ford says....... My two cents worth... John :cheers::cheers:

 

[Process]

Make sure you don't mod your car either.


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[Old Car Guy]

Looks.....

Make sure you don't mod your car either.


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Looks like you have done a good job on doing some mods to your car, and then you give advice on this....... OK thanks for the advice...... John :cheers:

 

[Varekai]

I'm getting ready to do my second oil change at 8500 miles, still sticking with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20, but I think I'll jump up to 5w-30 the change after that, once the engine is a bit more broken in.

 

[Process]

I'm getting ready to do my second oil change at 8500 miles, still sticking with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20, but I think I'll jump up to 5w-30 the change after that, once the engine is a bit more broken in.

engine is broken in from the first start up.

 

[Walt1120]

The main reason why a lot of people have been using Amsoil Signature Series 10w30 has been it's black stone lab reports and it's group 4/5 add packs as well as its NOACK volatility rating vs. their 0w30 and 5w30 offerings.

Since then Amsoil has revised their 0w30, and has also created 0w40 and 5w50 which all use similar add packs and have been getting similar ratings. They have also revised their 5w20 and 0w20. Personally I would not run a 20 weight oil in a coyote if you drive it hard. The TiVCT system in the coyote is not similar to the VCT found in the 3v engines that required specific oil weights for activation reasons. The TiVCT found in the coyote engine is based off oil pressure which is controlled by an electronically controlled solenoid. Oil weight plays zero factor on this.

There is no difference in weight in a 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 at operating temp, the 0w, 5w, and 10w ratings are only weights at freezing.

Yeah there is no difference at operating temp but at every temperature under that, 10w-30 is thicker. The viscosity curves continue to deviate the colder you go. Once you go below 0 C, the 10w-30 thickens at much greater rate than 0w-30. At -10 C 10w-30 is already ~1.5x thicker than 0W-30 (1050 cSt vs 700 cSt)


Even though the NOACK is higher with a 0w, all of the amsoil oils are fairly good so im not really worried about it but even if the oil does thicken a little bit, its still gonna be lighter than a 10w. All oils are too thick on startup, id go with less than 0w if they offered it


Some interesting things to note are that once you get below 0 C, amsoil 5w-30 is actually thinner than motorcraft 5w-20 and once you get down to extreme cold, the motorcraft 5w-20 pretty much follows the same curve as amsoil 10w-30 lol. This shows the difference between conventional and full synthetic. Full synthetics resist viscosity change better than conventionals, thats why they have a wider temperature range and drain interval


Another thing some do not realize is how operating temp influences oil viscosity. When you put in a 160 tstat and lower your operating temp your raising the viscosity of the oil in the motor. Amsoil 0W-20 at 90 C is thicker than Amsoil 10w-30 at 100 C, so slightly raising or lowering operating temp can have a decent impact on oil viscosity. Im still torn between 0w-20/0w-30 but 20 weight does not scare me on this car because the car has an oil cooler which keeps viscosity in check. 20 weight also flows faster so it makes it through the motor without heating up as much

 

[Process]

20 weight doesn't cut it for me with e85 and boost. Again these engines have no problem running up to a 50 weight. It's all based on intended use.

Grocery getter and 50 weight. That's a waste. Road course and high hp drag and 50 weight sure. I use 0w40.


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