Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

[benni302]

I wonder if something like this would work too.....i used to have a 8" one in my Bronco and like it pretty well

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=12PFQPT4H3B1XSR2MZ5V

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[Edwin]

I wonder if something like this would work too.....i used to have a 8" one in my Bronco and like it pretty well

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=12PFQPT4H3B1XSR2MZ5V

That will work. And if that harness has long enough wires then you won't need a LOC either.

 

[benni302]

That will work. And if that harness has long enough wires then you won't need a LOC either.

 

[ytechie]

I have the Ecoboost, so it has the noise cancellation you mentioned. Do you feel like you're missing out on anything since you disconnected the mic? That's the only thing I'm leery about giving up.

That mic isn't shared with the bluetooth system, correct?

 

[Edwin]

I have the Ecoboost, so it has the noise cancellation you mentioned. Do you feel like you're missing out on anything since you disconnected the mic? That's the only thing I'm leery about giving up.

That mic isn't shared with the bluetooth system, correct?

I didn't notice a difference after I unplugged the mic. It's honestly a very subtle noise that's coming through the system. (At least until you install an aftermarket sub without pulling the mic connection) Honestly though, if you're worried about it pull it when you get the chance. Drive around and see if you notice a difference and then go from there.

Correct, the mic is not shared with the Bluetooth system in any way.

 

[Stangalang15]

I wanted to move this write-up to this sub-forum. A lot of people have had questions about adding bass to their base systems and I feel kind of shady posting links to my build page to show them the write-up.

I was less than impressed by the bass in the stock system. I'm not really an audiophile but I wanted a little more bass in the system without having to sacrifice a lot of trunk space. A powered sub met my needs just fine.
Here is some info on the install.

So there are no RCA outputs on the back of the stock headunits. So, until they come up with a replacement headunit, you need to either purchase a powered subwoofer with a harness that lets you tap into the rear speaker wires or buy a Line Output Converter (LOC). The LOC will allow you to splice into your speaker wires and convert their high level output to low level output (RCA). The powered sub I installed came with a harness I could use but the wires weren't long enough to run to the speaker wires, so I purchased a LOC and used that. If you go to Amazon and search Line out converter you will see plenty of options. I went with a relatively cheap Rockford Fosgate LOC just because it was the last piece I bought and decided to keep everything one brand. It works fine and the system sounds great to me.

All of the wires you need to splice into are in the trunk. There's a 12v switched source along with both sets of rear speaker wires. They are running along the roof of the trunk near the back of the rear seats on the right side. They are wrapped in a black material that you can easily pull apart to expose the wires. You will want to expose them closer to the rear seats where they enter the trunk before they Split into a Y.

I spliced these wires with the wires from the LOC without cutting them. If you've never done that before (I hadn't) here is a pretty good article on it. http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-inte...utting-228546/
Hopefully you can see it in the pic but the speaker wires will be two sets of twisted wires.
White-Green is Left speaker positive
Brown-Yellow is Left speaker negative
Brown-white is Right speaker positive
Brown-Blue is Right speaker negative
The smaller gauge Blue-white wire is the 12v switched.

There is a conveniently located bolt between the seats at the floor of the trunk for your ground location. Just remove the bolt and sandpaper the paint off.
The power wire can be run through a grommet in the firewall on the passenger side but I believe this means removing the front tire and wheel well cover. There are some good pics of that here on the forum. I ended up going through a grommet on the driver's side and routing it straight up and under the plastic cover at the top of the engine bay. Not an easy thing to do and probably not the best way but doesn't require taking the wheel off.

If you are installing a sub in the EcoBoost then you will also want to pull the plug on the mic above the ceiling liner. All you have to do is sit in the back and pull the roof liner down. It's held up by two magnets. Once you pull it down you will see a black box with a wire running back behind it a few inches. Disconnect the wires there and you'll be fine. Otherwise, you will hear a ton a bass distortion coming through your sub.

If anyone has any questions just let me know. Hope this helps someone!

Hey..how did you secure that sub to prevent it from sliding and/or tipping?

 

[Edwin]

Hey..how did you secure that sub to prevent it from sliding and/or tipping?

The P300 came with Velcro strips that I put underneath it.

 

[SlateStang92]

I followed the directions to a T and my amp is in protection mode.
Everything is spliced in just like the directions said, but no dice.
I thought it may be the remote wire, so I removed the wire and tested it by running a wire from the power wire input to the remote wire input on the amp. The subs came on instantly and it wasn't in protection mode.
I spliced into the small blue/white wire as well for the original 12v remote turn on.
Any help?

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

 

[Edwin]

Is your backup camera still working? Do you have a multimeter to use on the remote wire?

 

[SlateStang92]

I didn't test it actually. I'll have to when I get off work at 7am.
Do you have a wiring diagram of how you found out which wires are which?

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

 

[Edwin]

I went off of a diagram for the Premium system because that's the only one I could find at the time. Here it is.

 

[SlateStang92]

Awesome thanks! I need to get this stuff figured out -_-

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

 

[filmamigo]

I had read other people's concerns about the rear speaker channels from the HU being rolled off with no bass. I tried fading all the way to the rear, and either the HU is rolling off the base, or the rear deck speakers are TERRIBLE.

Did you find tapping the rear speaker wires gave you the bass required for the subwoofer?

 

[Edwin]

It's been working fine for me since February.

 

[B.Crowder]

I got my sub installed this week. The write-up was very helpful. Here is a pic of the sub part-way through the install:

Some install notes:
I just noticed that OP cut a lot of the wire shroud off where as I only exposed a 4" section; this made splicing the input wires from the rear speakers to the sub very difficult.
I used "4 gauge" (apparently from reviews, it is more like 8 gauge) wire from the battery to the amp. For the 150W RMS JBL, I probably could have used a smaller gauge wire.
The JBL has an auto remote on feature so I didn't have to connect a switched 12V source.

I've haven't been able to play with the adjustments for more than a few minutes, but I'm happy with the mod so far. As I was dialling it in, I did get some "thumping" bass, so I don't think bass roll-off is a problem. I'm not an audiophile though and I haven't got it to where I want it. The sub has a remote level adjuster which would probably help, but I haven't install it yet.

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