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MAGS1
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The shocks and struts themselves are good? Any noticeable leaks around the struts? You have bump stops in there (and cut at the appropriate height)?
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blankman
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I am not sure if is possible to test with it assembled. I removed my assembly and tore them apart then checked for play with the plate off. I could shift the spherical bearing up and down in the plate with my fingers.
NightmareMoon
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#1 endlinks - did you hold the back of the bolt when you tightened the endlink nut? It takes two wrenches to get those tight. Its common.
#2 Steeda camber plates are usually ok. Just check the torque on the top nut and the 3 camber plate nuts but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the 3 nuts you can shear a bolt. You don't need a ton of torque on the top nut either, it just needs to be snug. Its possible the main bearing has play but gosh I don' t know a good way to confirm that TBH.
#3 Steeda extended balljoints are actually a pretty common part to fail (the extended ones just fail a lot faster than OEM. I've replaced THREE over the years). If you grab the inside rear of the wheel and try to shift it with the car off the ground you can see if there is play there. I just replaced one and I have less knock noise over bumps so the bad one was a bit noisy. This one is a good candidate to be the source too.
Basically you need a good nut and bolt torque check, and a check for play ( which means basically getting a bear hug on the wheel and trying to shift it with it in the air on a jackstand. If it moves, great! that means you can track it down. Usually will indicate a #4 which is a bad control arm.
#5 shocks can go bad and clunk. What shocks are on there now? Vikings are notorious for noises. Konis and Steedas can make noise. etc etc
But back to #1 - did you do that? Who or what shop did the endlinks last time?
#2 Steeda camber plates are usually ok. Just check the torque on the top nut and the 3 camber plate nuts but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the 3 nuts you can shear a bolt. You don't need a ton of torque on the top nut either, it just needs to be snug. Its possible the main bearing has play but gosh I don' t know a good way to confirm that TBH.
#3 Steeda extended balljoints are actually a pretty common part to fail (the extended ones just fail a lot faster than OEM. I've replaced THREE over the years). If you grab the inside rear of the wheel and try to shift it with the car off the ground you can see if there is play there. I just replaced one and I have less knock noise over bumps so the bad one was a bit noisy. This one is a good candidate to be the source too.
Basically you need a good nut and bolt torque check, and a check for play ( which means basically getting a bear hug on the wheel and trying to shift it with it in the air on a jackstand. If it moves, great! that means you can track it down. Usually will indicate a #4 which is a bad control arm.
#5 shocks can go bad and clunk. What shocks are on there now? Vikings are notorious for noises. Konis and Steedas can make noise. etc etc
But back to #1 - did you do that? Who or what shop did the endlinks last time?
Metz302
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I tightened the endlinks myself. I swore I tightened them as hard as I possibly could but I guess not? A simple test would just be to take it out and drive around without the endlink eh?
Do you still use Steeda’s extended ball joint or get a regular one?
My Steeda struts and springs I bought just over two years ago. So I’m not sure. They aren’t leaking.
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BigR4444
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Its good that you're concerned, and you care about something being off.... but If youre that worried, just drive normally and dont push the car....
Ive seen shit on youtube... Concept 3, etc... Idiots are out there driving around with crucial suspension components broken and/or not connected to anything.... zip ties holding their cars together... brake pads and rotors completely disintegrated... If it was something dangerous, the shop you went to would have seen it...
Its an annoying noise that youre having trouble identifying... You should be fine
Swtbabybilly
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If all your suspension checks out like someone else mentioned already check your motor mounts, you never know and if the suspension is all good cant be many other things besides a motor or tranny mount but maybe a video with the sound could also help diagnose it, best of luck
NightmareMoon
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I wouldnt recommend what I did for thst extended balljoint control arm to others. Concensus says to avoid em due to the failure rates.
Did you put a wrench on the endlink bolt behind the bar or did you just tighten em from one side? Did they fully stop rotating when you tighten them or did you just give it a good twist? Did you put a torque wrench on them? Theres a right way to tighten endlinks and it takes two tools at once. Theres a wrong way and its a big ugga digga power tool.
If you take the endlinks off and its making noise, that would rule endlinsk out, but if you remove them and its quiet(er) it would not entirely implicate them.
either way if you remove them, check for noise, reinstall them and you do the install right, that might fix the noise.
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