BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[NGOT8R]

Here I go again (another fitment issue)! Today, I test fit the turbo onto the exhaust manifold with the support bracket and gaskets installed and quickly discovered that it doesn’t sit flush.

I’m going to have to reevaluate things, but it appears that I’m going to have to carefully enlarge the holes on the turbine mounting base. The turbine should just drop down onto the studs in the exhaust manifold very easily, not hang up. There’s about 3/16” to 1/4” gap on the engine side. Simply tightening the bolts down to force it, isn’t the way to go IMO.

I want zero boost leaks out of this setup and I’m gonna do everything I can to ensure that I have a tight seal EVERYWHERE!

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[diambo4life]

Yeah....enlarging the holes a touch should do it. Dumb question, but what is that sandwiched between? Bracket?

 

[masonhoare9]

Yeah....enlarging the holes a touch should do it. Dumb question, but what is that sandwiched between? Bracket?

Its the turbo support bracket. The turbo weighs probably 45-50 pounds so they made a bracket so the welds wont crack

 

[NGOT8R]

Yeah....enlarging the holes a touch should do it. Dumb question, but what is that sandwiched between? Bracket?

There are two T6 stainless steel gaskets and the support bracket that @masonhoare9 mentioned.

 

[NGOT8R]

Did some more mockup again and double checked the cold side pipe that I cut for the driver’s side of the intercooler. Although everything has a ttriple layer of heat protection, I also wanted to visually confirm that all wires are free and clear of anything that gets hot. Cutting the pipe eliminate all areas that were touching the hot side and I’m very pleased with that.

In addition, I finished up the lines to the coolant reservoir/catch tank and a good portion of the vacuum lines. I need to order a few more feet of vacuum lines to finish up that task.

 

[gimmie11s]

Coming out killer!!!

 

[NGOT8R]

Coming out killer!!!

Thanks! I’m trying man. Some days are extremely difficult, but I’m soldiering on as best I can.

 

[19BULLITTwhipple]

This video shows something I would recommend on vband heavy kits especially like this bl fab kit.

Might save you all some tuning nightmares and unnecessary stress from the vacuum and exhaust side.

 

[19BULLITTwhipple]

Here’s a link for the smoke machine and the fitting to check for leaks at the o2 sensor:
Good idea to test.

On the vacuum side you can use the brake booster hose to smoke test the manifold and vacuum connections

https://a.co/d/0cdwVYtA

https://a.co/d/06rQwlOy

 

[NGOT8R]

Man, I just can’t catch a break, no matter which way I turn. Today I decided to pressure test the BL Fab combo coolant reservoir/catch tank for leaks because I had heard and read of this being a potential issue (hit or miss, I guess).

I used a pressure test kit that I purchased on Amazon for this.

Note: Prior to testing, I capped all -AN nipples on the tank and used a vacuum cap on the overflow nipple off of the filler neck. Next, I used the hand pump to pressurize the tank to 17 psi. Keep in mind that the factory coolant system has an operating pressure of 21 psi.

The pressure holds with everything capped, with about a 1 psi pressure drop (presumably from the air settling), but once I loosen one of the two caps for the catch tank side, you can hear air escape. Now, unless I’m missing something here, this should be indicative of a leak internally at the divider wall that is pushing air from the coolant reservoir side, into the catch tank side.

Anyone have any ideas how to correct this without cutting the tank open? Thanks in advance.

 

[NGOT8R]

I tried to catch it on video and it was tough to do, without help, but I conducted a second test by partially filling the coolant reservoir side of the tank and pressurizing it again to 16 psi. After about 5 min., the pressure had dropped to 11 psi, so I removed the -10AN cap on the vent side of the catch tank and turned it upside down. There was indeed water inside (at least an ounce or more).

 

[NGOT8R]

More info. on this subject:

An internal divider leak in a
BL Fabrications (BL Fab) dual-chamber tank (often a coolant reservoir/oil catch can combo) is a critical failure because it allows cross-contamination between your cooling system and your engine's blow-by/oil vapors.

Symptoms of an Internal Divider Leak

• Contaminated Coolant: You may see an oily film, milky residue, or "sludge" inside the coolant side of the tank.
• Coolant in Catch Can: If you find significant amounts of watery, colored liquid (coolant) in the oil catch can side, the divider has likely breached.
• Level Fluctuations: One side of the tank may consistently lose fluid while the other gains it without an external leak being visible.
  Valvoline™ Global +3

Why This Happens

• Weld Penetration Issues: In aluminum fabricated tanks, the internal baffle/divider is welded to the outer shell. If the weld did not fully penetrate or has cracked due to thermal expansion (coolant is hot, catch can air is often cooler), a path opens between the chambers.
• Stress Cracking: Engine vibrations can cause fatigue at the points where the internal plate meets the tank walls.

How to Confirm & Fix

1. Pressure Test: Drain both sides of the tank. Plug all ports on the coolant side and apply 10–15 PSI of air pressure. Use soapy water on the inside of the catch can side (through its top port); if bubbles appear, the divider is leaking.
2. Professional Re-weld: Because the leak is internal, "quick fixes" like epoxy typically won't reach the source or hold up against thermal cycling. A fabricator must typically cut the tank open (usually at the bottom or a side seam) to access and repair the internal weld.
3. Warranty/Replacement: Check with BL Fabrications directly. If the unit is relatively new, an internal weld failure is often considered a manufacturing defect.
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CAUTION: Do not drive with a known internal leak. Mixing engine oil vapors with coolant can clog your radiator or cause overheating, while coolant entering the intake via the catch can can damage your engine.

 

[NGOT8R]

For anyone looking for info on the test kit that I have. Here it is. All I used was the hand pump with the pre-attached gauge and hose and the #5 pressure cap from the kit for the test.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

I would get separate units. They don’t belong together in the same vessel anyway as I mentioned before. Functionality and possibly flooding your crankcase with coolant in the future. If Bad Luck Fabrications can’t pull off making a coolant tank that doesn’t leak, that’s pretty disappointing.

 

[19BULLITTwhipple]

I would get separate units. They don’t belong together in the same vessel anyway as I mentioned before. Functionality and possibly flooding your crankcase with coolant in the future. If Bad Luck Fabrications can’t pull off making a coolant tank that doesn’t leak, that’s pretty disappointing.

Bad Luck Fabrications. Haha that’s funny and very true

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