BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[NGOT8R]

Well, when it says 5 o'clock what's exactly 5 o'clock? It could be 4:50 or 5:10 on a clock dial, it doesn't take much to be a tooth off.

I see exactly what you’re saying there. It is indeed a tricky procedure. I keep going back rechecking myself because I “NEED“ this to be right on the first go. If I were to have to pull everything back off because I’m off a tooth, it would be almost like starting from scratch again for me once the turbo installation is complete.

What codes did you get on yours the three times you’ve had to retime the motor?

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[NGOT8R]

I changed out the crankshaft seal in the timing cover today. I noticed a couple of differences in the original seal and the replacement seal which is a Ford part as well.

One of the most obvious things was the original seal did not have a garter spring in it, whereas the replacement seal does.

I also removed the factory heat shield tape from the exhaust side edges of the valve covers, cleaned them well and applied new heat shield tape (moving it further forward to protect the areas closer to the forward facing headers.

 

[HKusp]

I see exactly what you’re saying there. It is indeed a tricky procedure. I keep going back rechecking myself because I “NEED“ this to be right on the first go. If I were to have to pull everything back off because I’m off a tooth, it would be almost like starting from scratch again for me once the turbo installation is complete.

What codes did you get on yours the three times you’ve had to retime the motor?

I have had several different codes. The last time it was P0019 and P0025.

 

[xr4x4ti]

I have had several different codes. The last time it was P0019 and P0025.

This is good info. I couldn't sleep at night after putting my new engine together wondering if I got the cam timing correct. I never got any codes, so I would assume that it was OK, but it always lingered in the back of my head, can you be off a tooth and will the cam phasers overcome that and not through a code?

 

[wingnutt]

I’m sure this crowd has seen the video, but I’ll post it for those following the thread…



…and there’s an oldie but goody thread posted here a few moons back, not a degree wheel in sight

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-time-2015-5-0.39249/

 

[AcceptableNebula]

This is good info. I couldn't sleep at night after putting my new engine together wondering if I got the cam timing correct. I never got any codes, so I would assume that it was OK, but it always lingered in the back of my head, can you be off a tooth and will the cam phasers overcome that and not through a code?

In theory, it has enough adjustability but it will trigger a code. One tooth off on a cam is about 8 degrees if my math is correct which would double on the crank sprocket.

 

[HKusp]

This is good info. I couldn't sleep at night after putting my new engine together wondering if I got the cam timing correct. I never got any codes, so I would assume that it was OK, but it always lingered in the back of my head, can you be off a tooth and will the cam phasers overcome that and not through a code?

Well, here is an abbreviated sequence of events the last time. I had some sparkles in the oil and we had found an oiling problem that created damage to the cams and heads. I got a set of stock cams and heads to replace them. While we were in there we replaced the timing components (again) with FRPP phasers, chains etc. All new solenoids, new crank sensor too. When I first ran the car after the heads and cam change, it had no timing codes for about 60 or 70 miles total. It sounded a little different, but it seemed to be running fine, but because we had sparkles in the oil prior, I wanted to do an oil and filter change to make sure we were running clean oil. So we did an oil change, KAM reset and crank re-learn on the Snap-on machine at my buddies work. We pulled it down off the lift, I drove it about a quarter to maybe half of a mile and was coming to a stop light, pushed in the clutch and it rev'd up to about 1500-1700rpm then dropped down to below 500rpm and threw a flashing CEL and would barely stay running. I limped it home and pull those 2 codes along with cylinder misfire codes. First pic is one of the original cams, obviously.

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m sure this crowd has seen the video, but I’ll post it for those following the thread…



…and there’s an oldie but goody thread posted here a few moons back, not a degree wheel in sight

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-time-2015-5-0.39249/

I noticed a discrepancy in this video, as compared to the video that I used for my cam timing procedure. At 1:53, the MMR tech installs the chain with the timing mark on the exh. sprocket in the middle of the two colored chain links and the single colored link over the timing mark on the int. sprocket.

In the video below (which I used), the chain orientation is the exact opposite.
Maybe it can be done both ways, but I wanted to point that out just in case.

See the difference here.

 

[wingnutt]

I noticed a discrepancy in this video, as compared to the video that I used for my cam timing procedure. At 1:53, the MMR tech installs the chain with the timing mark on the exh. sprocket in the middle of the two colored chain links and the single colored link over the timing mark on the int. sprocket.

In the video below (which I used), the chain orientation is the exact opposite.
Maybe it can be done both ways, but I wanted to point that out just in case.

See the difference here.

yea, I was wondering similar as I saw a blip somewhere about the differences on the gen3. but I would have to defer to someone else on that one, as I’m stuck n the gen2 world (sorta)…And your vid is better as it shows the removal first

 

[wingnutt]

thinking out loud on the whole 5’oclock thing…I wonder if that puts a piston or two at TDC and that’s all one would need to check, in order to help verify?

digging around the interwebs today…

 

[NGOT8R]

thinking out loud on the whole 5’oclock thing…I wonder if that puts a piston or two at TDC and that’s all one would need to check, in order to help verify?

digging around the interwebs today…

I found something a couple of days ago that said once each bank is timed, you can check the accuracy by making two full rotations or 720* and the sprockets should line back up in the same position as before the rotations were made. Now obviously, the painted links won’t line up with the timing marks on the exh. and crank sprockets, but if you count the links in the chain between both timing marks, there should be 31 links. I did this and confirmed that this was the case.

I’ve turned my motor over so many times, that I now have Popeye forearms, lol. I can’t tell you how many times I did it, but it was a lot. This is a procedure that should make the installer a little nervous, as anyone can make a misstep. It only takes a small distraction to get off track.

 

[SheepDog]

I found something a couple of days ago that said once each bank is timed, you can check the accuracy by making two full rotations or 720* and the sprockets should line back up in the same position as before the rotations were made. Now obviously, the painted links won’t line up with the timing marks on the exh. and crank sprockets, but if you count the links in the chain between both timing marks, there should be 31 links. I did this and confirmed that this was the case.

I’ve turned my motor over so many times, that I now have Popeye forearms, lol. I can’t tell you how many times I did it, but it was a lot. This is a procedure that should make the installer a little nervous, as anyone can make a misstep. It only takes a small distraction to get off track.

What is most important, is that you arent several teeth off. If you have spun the motor over by hand a bunch, and nothing hits, consider that a win. Put everything back together in stock form, and make sure the motor runs properly before moving to the turbo kit install.

 

[NGOT8R]

By going with all the bells and whistles on this install, I’ve continued to encounter one challenge after another.

I put on the driver’s side section of the hot side piping again today, so that I could try and find a place to mount the Davies Craig EWP. I’ll have to circle back tomorrow and hopefully come up with some sort of plan. I’m sure I’ll have to source different hoses and such to move it wherever it needs to go, to make it fit.

@SheepDog thank you for the tip and pics a while back about where to mount the VaporWorx MAP sensor. It worked out perfectly

 

[SheepDog]

@SheepDog thank you for the tip and pics a while back about where to mount the VaporWorx MAP sensor. It worked out perfectly

Nailed it.

 

[SheepDog]

This thing is going to be B-A-N-A-N-A-S

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