Mach 1 Carbon Trap Removal Question

[Mach 307]

Hey guys, I know this has been beat to death, but I have a more specific question than what has been answered on here previously about this.

When I removed my carbon trap when I had my GT, I remember I removed the trap and left in the honeycomb piece circled in green, as I’m aware, similar to the Mach 1, this changes the intake diameter and messes with fuel trims. Though I left in the lattice as well, circled in blue, as to not mess with the airflow intended by the factory design. You can see how it holds the filter in the second photo.

On the Mach 1, I am fully aware that you leave in the inner tube, and only want to remove the trap it self. Though it seems there may be clips on the plastic piece that holds the carbon filter inside. I’ve seen everyone just discards this a long with the trap, but I had the thought due to the experience I had on the GT. Do you think it would be better to remove the trap it self from that plastic piece and put everything back into the intake: tube, plastic circle that holds the trap and all? As to not mess with the airflow whatsoever, similar to the GT?

I don’t have mine out of the car yet, so if those aren’t clips at all and the carbon filter can’t be removed from the plastic it self, this may not be a discussion at all.

Thanks.

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[Jimmy Dean]

no, the factory MAF tuning is more than capable of making up for this slight adjustment, and the 21s do not have it at all.

 

[Skye]

I'd remove the filter/trap in its entirety and leave the inner tube.

The trap is three pieces: two plastic halves with the filter material in-between. The plastic halves are joined by six tabs. The pieces can be separated by manipulating tabs on the trap puck.

But putting the plastic blank back inside...looking at mine right now, I fail to see how the filter enclosure shapes anything, how it helps anything, by keeping it.

Several us have removed the trap, left the tube and driven for the last few years. If there is a air charge shaping effect by the puck enclosure itself, its too slight to register on anything of interest.

 

[SheepDog]

Hey guys, I know this has been beat to death, but I have a more specific question than what has been answered on here previously about this.

When I removed my carbon trap when I had my GT, I remember I removed the trap and left in the honeycomb piece circled in green, as I’m aware, similar to the Mach 1, this changes the intake diameter and messes with fuel trims. Though I left in the lattice as well, circled in blue, as to not mess with the airflow intended by the factory design. You can see how it holds the filter in the second photo.

On the Mach 1, I am fully aware that you leave in the inner tube, and only want to remove the trap it self. Though it seems there may be clips on the plastic piece that holds the carbon filter inside. I’ve seen everyone just discards this a long with the trap, but I had the thought due to the experience I had on the GT. Do you think it would be better to remove the trap it self from that plastic piece and put everything back into the intake: tube, plastic circle that holds the trap and all? As to not mess with the airflow whatsoever, similar to the GT?

I don’t have mine out of the car yet, so if those aren’t clips at all and the carbon filter can’t be removed from the plastic it self, this may not be a discussion at all.

Thanks.

The second photo of the MACH1 carbon filter is mine. You do need to re-install the plastic tube that it sits in. The MAF calculation will be off around 20% otherwise.

 

[Mach 307]

The second photo of the MACH1 carbon filter is mine. You do need to re-install the plastic tube that it sits in. The MAF calculation will be off around 20% otherwise.

That I saw on your previous thread so I plan to do that, my question was more about the puck it self that holds the carbon trap, can the trap it self be removed from that puck and the puck reinstalled along with the tube as to not run into similar issues from leaving out the tube. Though the others above said it shouldn’t be a problem. I saw some conflicting info about the lattice when I had my GT so I left it in, which raised this question about the puck.

I’m a bit of an overthinker so I’ll likely remove the trap it self and leave the puck in.

 

[SheepDog]

That I saw on your previous thread so I plan to do that, my question was more about the puck it self that holds the carbon trap, can the trap it self be removed from that puck and the puck reinstalled along with the tube as to not run into similar issues from leaving out the tube. Though the others above said it shouldn’t be a problem. I saw some conflicting info about the lattice when I had my GT so I left it in, which raised this question about the puck.

I’m a bit of an overthinker so I’ll likely remove the trap it self and leave the puck in.

I don't believe the silver carbon trap part can be separated from the sleeve it sits in. This wouldn't make any difference anyway because the MAF sensor sits behind that assembly, and its scaling is based off of the diameter of the tube. The filter has nothing to do with it, aside from potentially acting as an air straightener of sorts. Just remove the carbon trap, re-install the fluted sleeve, job done.

 

[Mach 307]

I don't believe the silver carbon trap part can be separated from the sleeve it sits in. This wouldn't make any difference anyway because the MAF sensor sits behind that assembly, and its scaling is based off of the diameter of the tube. The filter has nothing to do with it, aside from potentially acting as an air straightener of sorts. Just remove the carbon trap, re-install the fluted sleeve, job done.

Sounds good, that’s all I was really wondering. I suppose if it can’t even be removed that makes up my mind lol. Thank you.

EDIT: Read Skye’s post closer and I guess it can be opened up, but doesn’t occur to me to be necessary.

 

[Mach 307]

Seems like even though the carbon filter can be removed from the puck, gave it some more thought, and it would be better anyways to leave it fully in tact just in case it ever needs to go back on the car. Similar to why I left the lattice on the GT, if you removed it, it was gone for good as it was plastic welded in.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

You're over thinking it. Just remove the trap and go. Then get a tune from a good tuner like Wengerd and tell him exactly how much of the trap you removed, he will tailor the tune to your specific application.

 

[Mach 307]

You're over thinking it. Just remove the trap and go. Then get a tune from a good tuner like Wengerd and tell him exactly how much of the trap you removed, he will tailor the tune to your specific application.

Sadly I have my Ford esp until 2035/100k miles so I want to stay away from a tune. I think I’ll have to go the method where I reinsert the tubing in order to stay within correct fuel trims.

 

[Nickel]

This could have been an email. Removed my trap, left the core piece as you're supposed to, as soon as I got the car. Took me a total of 10 minutes. I have 13K miles on the car from daily, track days and mountain running and not an issue. End of story. Lol

 

[Racer57]

If those items are removed and the Dealer hooks up their diagnostics, will it show there's been a change ?

 

[Skye]

If those items are removed and the Dealer hooks up their diagnostics, will it show there's been a change ?

No.

The changes in removing the filter turn a 2022 and 2023 intake system into a 2021's. The 2021 spec engines were rated at 480 HP. Later Model Years, 470 HP. The only change is the filter in the tube. YMMV.

If the trap itself is removed, there are no codes thrown. Any logging device will show all measurable parameters stay within their programmed ranges.

If the trap and inner tube are removed, while I've not read of any codes thrown, it was shown during testing fuel trims will approach their range limits.

Remove the trap only and press on.

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