What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[DFB5.0]

Now please don’t take any of this the wrong way D (from someone who only buys on your recommendation), but how do you assess the calibre of these products on that immaculate cab/chassis!

I guess any performance reporting is useful for information provided. Would it be better if you saved more of your testing for the superb job you recently did on that Subaru SUV?

That is real cars in everyday use.

Again please don’t take any of this as criticism - more an observation.

That's a valid observational and I certainly didn't take it the wrong way.

I have plans to use that Subaru to test the Perfect Finish Sealant, mainly because I really can't use it on my ceramic coated vehicles, and the non-coated cars are either in line for a paint correction (XR6) or have recently had one (XR8).

Also, my father's Ranger Wildtrak is used to test a wide variety of products. That vehicle is parked outdoors in the elements 24/7 and is used in all road conditions. He also cares little in regards to keeping it clean, so it's always in need of attention. It's actually an excellent test bed for products..................just don't tell dad that.

My Ranger certainly leads a pampered life relative to similar vehicles of its type. But it also represents what most "enthusiast" car detailing freaks would do with their daily drivers. As in, driven in all conditions, but washed weekly to keep on top of it. So, in some ways, it does represent a somewhat "normal" existence, but probably not normal for a povo base model single cab chassis work vehicle.

Sponsored

 

[DFB5.0]

One of the key reasons why I like Koch Chemie Pol Star is how it lathers up under agitation. This lather helps display where you've been and gives a visual impression that you are actually achieving something. To be fair, most interior cleaners do this, but Pol Star differs in that it's pH neutral. Now, some will argue that Pol Star is less capable for that reason...................but that's just not true. I've used it on filthy neglected leather and had it do a splendid job.

Koch Chemie (PO) Pol Star | Textile, Leather and Alcantara Cleaner – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Pol Star | The Rag Company

So, with that in mind, why are we using harsh alkaline APC's to clean interiors? And it's not a cost issue either, Pol Star is now incredibly affordable, especially when diluted as directed -

Light Cleaning - 20:1
Medium Duty - 10:1
Heavy Duty - 5:1

That lathering ability mentioned at the beginning also means Pol Star can foam. Not in a foam cannon, although that could be an interesting experiment. No, in this case I'm talking about those pump action soap dispensers. In fact, Koch Chemie sell one for use with Pol Star, which mimics the same setup used by ColourLock for their leather cleaners and includes a handy dilution scale printed on the bottle.

Koch Chemie Foamer Bottle 150ml: High-Quality Foam Generation - Detailing Shed
Koch-Chemie - Foamer Bottle | The Rag Company

So why would you want a foaming interior cleaner? There are situations where spraying product ends up being quite messy, especially on vertical surfaces as it ends up running down and away from what you are trying to clean. However, foam allows that cleaner to stay in place. For this, you would be applying Pol Star into the bristles of your brush rather than directly onto a surface.

For example, a foaming cleaner is ideal for steering wheels, gear shifters and handbrake levers. Being vertical surfaces, foam allows you to control its application much better without making a mess.

Foam is also ideal for spot cleaning fabrics. Why? Because in foam format, the product is less likely to oversaturate the area, which in turn makes removing the cleaning chemical afterwards much easier. Yes, the key to cleaning fabrics and carpet is the actual removal of the cleaner/dirt emulsion afterwards. Go heavy with the cleaner, well, you have more to take out. This also makes Pol Star in foam format ideal for Alcantara and suede, again, you are less likely to oversaturate the material.

Only one retailer in Australia carries the KCx branded pump foam bottles. But unbranded versions in a variety of sizes are available on Amazon and eBay. In my case, I went with 200ml versions, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 150ml for efficiency.

Clear Empty Foam Pump Bottle, Travel Soap & Shampoo Dispenser (4 Pack, 6.8oz/200ml) : Amazon.com.au

I also tried the excellent P&S Xpress in one of these bottles and it worked just as well. Just be mindful that Xpress isn't pH neutral.

For larger surface areas like a leather seat, you would probably stick to a spray bottle and use your brush to lather up the product. However, as explained, a foaming cleaner has its place and advantages.

 

[MrMike]

I recognize the ColourLock brush on the steering wheel but what's the other one in the last couple pics?

I ended up getting the Sonax brush and it's pretty nice.

 

[DFB5.0]

I recognize the ColourLock brush on the steering wheel but what's the other one in the last couple pics?

I ended up getting the Sonax brush and it's pretty nice.

It's the Carpro leather brush, which was launched with their dedicated leather cleaner and conditioner, both of which I do not recommend. The brush is ok, but personally I think it needs to be tad larger.

CARPRO Small Leather Brush - Skys The Limit Car Care

 

[Free Spirit]

Random question, I'm going on a trip next week and I've tried the touchless car wash with no luck, the back end of my vehicle is already super scratched up but the front half was repajnted so I'm trying to keep it somewhat nice so I can get the whole car corrected and ceramic coated. But how can I clean it quickly without any tools, I can go find a wash kit (I got an old blue one with all those short pieces hanging off?) but I don't have any soap or anything like that. And the car is filthy. Should I just run it through a brushed car wash (hurts to even think about) since it already needs paint correction? Any ideas for quick stuff I can do at home instead that I can buy locally that's good quality?

 

[DFB5.0]

Despite feeling off colour today, I forced myself to go outside and make the most of the lovely late winter sunshine. The plan was to wash the XR6 before swapping places with the Mustang and it cover going on.

The wheels were given a quick once over with OG Decon Soap, the tyres scrubbed with Brake Buster, Atom Mac on the rotors. I then rinsed the whole car and drove back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, then dried using ADS Adapt.

Adapt is termed a water-less wash, which I think tends to limit its appeal. In reality, Adapt is just so versatile and has the potential to be used on just about every vehicle surface, inside and out. On paint, its super forgiving to use with little to no streaking and a lovely slick finish. Oh, and the scent is a real treat as well.

Armour Detail - ADAPT - Waterless Wash | The Rag Company
ARMOUR Detail Supply ADAPT Waterless Wash - Detailing Shed

In addition to drying aid duties, I also used Adapt for the door jambs and engine bay.

With the wheels wiped over and the tyres dressed, the old girl was moved into position and covered up for a few weeks. It's the Mustang's turn!

And I'm calling it, spring is on the way, I can smell it in the air! And not just the air, but several fragrant late winter flowering plants have begun doing their thing, think Wattles, Early Cheer, Osmanthus and the delightfully intoxicating Daphne. Scent is probably my most alert sense, so I tend to be ruled by it. So, when I comment on a product scent, it's not because of hype or marketing, it's purely me following true to type.

 

[DFB5.0]

Random question, I'm going on a trip next week and I've tried the touchless car wash with no luck, the back end of my vehicle is already super scratched up but the front half was repajnted so I'm trying to keep it somewhat nice so I can get the whole car corrected and ceramic coated. But how can I clean it quickly without any tools, I can go find a wash kit (I got an old blue one with all those short pieces hanging off?) but I don't have any soap or anything like that. And the car is filthy. Should I just run it through a brushed car wash (hurts to even think about) since it already needs paint correction? Any ideas for quick stuff I can do at home instead that I can buy locally that's good quality?

I would rather the vehicle stay dirty than run it through a brushed car wash. Yes, you are going to have it corrected, but why inflict more scratches if you can avoid it? Remember, when removing scratches and swirls, you are also removing paint/clearcoat, and you only get so much to play with.

If you have no luck with a touch-less car wash, then you will most likely need to carry a "travel kit".

For this, I would have a medium sized bucket with a gamma seal lid so that you can keep everything sealed up while traveling. To that bucket, I would had a rinse-less wash concentrate, a sprayer, a handful of plush towels for cleaning, and drying towel. That rinse-less wash then becomes your all-in-one product to clean the exterior, the interior, and even the glass.

3.5 Gallon Bucket – gritguard.com
Gamma Seal Lid – gritguard.com

I'd suggest either McKee's N-914 or Optimum No Rinse as they are very forgiving and more versatile than some. I'd also go with the TRC Eagle towels for rinse-less, or one of the rinse-less sponges -

McKee's 37 N-914 Rinseless Wash – Ultimate Multi-Use Car Cleaning Solution – Obsessed Garage
Optimum - No Rinse Wash and Shine (ONR) | The Rag Company

Eagle Edgeless 500 | The Rag Company
ULTRA Safe Sponge | The Rag Company
Optimum No Rinse + Ultra Safe Sponge Wash Kit | The Rag Company (kit)

The other option instead of rinse-less washing would be to buy a pump action foamer and a bottle of Bilt Hamber Touch-less. Either mix it up before leaving or do it at the car wash. I would then find a pay-and-spray car wash, foam the car with Touch-less, allow to dwell, then rinse with the pressure washer. Bilt Hamber Touch-less is one of the very few properly touch-free wash soaps on the market. Be realistic though, you will easily knock down the bulk of the dirt, which you can either call it good, or in with the rinse-less wash.

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less Eco-Friendly Snow Foam for Exceptional Vehicle Cleaning – Obsessed Garage

Marolex Axel Foaming Pump Sprayer - Best Mobile Detailing Tool для качественного очищення – Obsessed Garage
Obsessed Garage Hand-Held Battery Powered Sprayer by Solo – Obsessed Garage

iK Foam Pro 2 Sprayer | The Rag Company (pump action)
IK e Foam Pro 2 Battery Sprayer | The Rag Company (battery version)

 

[Free Spirit]

I would rather the vehicle stay dirty than run it through a brushed car wash. Yes, you are going to have it corrected, but why inflict more scratches if you can avoid it? Remember, when removing scratches and swirls, you are also removing paint/clearcoat, and you only get so much to play with.

If you have no luck with a touch-less car wash, then you will most likely need to carry a "travel kit".

For this, I would have a medium sized bucket with a gamma seal lid so that you can keep everything sealed up while traveling. To that bucket, I would had a rinse-less wash concentrate, a sprayer, a handful of plush towels for cleaning, and drying towel. That rinse-less wash then becomes your all-in-one product to clean the exterior, the interior, and even the glass.

3.5 Gallon Bucket – gritguard.com
Gamma Seal Lid – gritguard.com

I'd suggest either McKee's N-914 or Optimum No Rinse as they are very forgiving and more versatile than some. I'd also go with the TRC Eagle towels for rinse-less, or one of the rinse-less sponges -

McKee's 37 N-914 Rinseless Wash – Ultimate Multi-Use Car Cleaning Solution – Obsessed Garage
Optimum - No Rinse Wash and Shine (ONR) | The Rag Company

Eagle Edgeless 500 | The Rag Company
ULTRA Safe Sponge | The Rag Company
Optimum No Rinse + Ultra Safe Sponge Wash Kit | The Rag Company (kit)

The other option instead of rinse-less washing would be to buy a pump action foamer and a bottle of Bilt Hamber Touch-less. Either mix it up before leaving or do it at the car wash. I would then find a pay-and-spray car wash, foam the car with Touch-less, allow to dwell, then rinse with the pressure washer. Bilt Hamber Touch-less is one of the very few properly touch-free wash soaps on the market. Be realistic though, you will easily knock down the bulk of the dirt, which you can either call it good, or in with the rinse-less wash.

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less Eco-Friendly Snow Foam for Exceptional Vehicle Cleaning – Obsessed Garage

Marolex Axel Foaming Pump Sprayer - Best Mobile Detailing Tool для качественного очищення – Obsessed Garage
Obsessed Garage Hand-Held Battery Powered Sprayer by Solo – Obsessed Garage

iK Foam Pro 2 Sprayer | The Rag Company (pump action)
IK e Foam Pro 2 Battery Sprayer | The Rag Company (battery version)

What about for at home, something I can find stuff locally for to do say 2 bucket wash or any other way, because at home I'll need a way to clean it and I'll have access to a hose (and a shitty Ryobi pressure washer that's weak but works, well I think it works it's been rusting behind the garage for a few years but it used to work). I'd like to clean it real good before I leave. Also I'm sure even with a 2 bucket I'll add some micro scratches right? There's probably no way to wipe dirt off a car without doing some damage. I know I already did some because I wiped a few spots with my finger to see how dirty it was (stupid i know) and to wipe off a a few spider webs that I thought were scratches so that probably added some scratches but those shouldn't be deep. I'll update this with some photos shortly


Update this is after the touchless car wash still got some caked on dirt bird poop and more

Another edit, here's some much better photos of post car wash. Literally looks like shit still it really needs to touched with a rag or wash mit.

 

[Free Spirit]

I would rather the vehicle stay dirty than run it through a brushed car wash. Yes, you are going to have it corrected, but why inflict more scratches if you can avoid it? Remember, when removing scratches and swirls, you are also removing paint/clearcoat, and you only get so much to play with.

If you have no luck with a touch-less car wash, then you will most likely need to carry a "travel kit".

For this, I would have a medium sized bucket with a gamma seal lid so that you can keep everything sealed up while traveling. To that bucket, I would had a rinse-less wash concentrate, a sprayer, a handful of plush towels for cleaning, and drying towel. That rinse-less wash then becomes your all-in-one product to clean the exterior, the interior, and even the glass.

3.5 Gallon Bucket – gritguard.com
Gamma Seal Lid – gritguard.com

I'd suggest either McKee's N-914 or Optimum No Rinse as they are very forgiving and more versatile than some. I'd also go with the TRC Eagle towels for rinse-less, or one of the rinse-less sponges -

McKee's 37 N-914 Rinseless Wash – Ultimate Multi-Use Car Cleaning Solution – Obsessed Garage
Optimum - No Rinse Wash and Shine (ONR) | The Rag Company

Eagle Edgeless 500 | The Rag Company
ULTRA Safe Sponge | The Rag Company
Optimum No Rinse + Ultra Safe Sponge Wash Kit | The Rag Company (kit)

The other option instead of rinse-less washing would be to buy a pump action foamer and a bottle of Bilt Hamber Touch-less. Either mix it up before leaving or do it at the car wash. I would then find a pay-and-spray car wash, foam the car with Touch-less, allow to dwell, then rinse with the pressure washer. Bilt Hamber Touch-less is one of the very few properly touch-free wash soaps on the market. Be realistic though, you will easily knock down the bulk of the dirt, which you can either call it good, or in with the rinse-less wash.

Bilt Hamber Touch-Less Eco-Friendly Snow Foam for Exceptional Vehicle Cleaning – Obsessed Garage

Marolex Axel Foaming Pump Sprayer - Best Mobile Detailing Tool для качественного очищення – Obsessed Garage
Obsessed Garage Hand-Held Battery Powered Sprayer by Solo – Obsessed Garage

iK Foam Pro 2 Sprayer | The Rag Company (pump action)
IK e Foam Pro 2 Battery Sprayer | The Rag Company (battery version)

What would you recommend for future use, 2 bucket, pressure washer? Mix? I'm trying to establish a procedure for cleaning going forward, I have access to a old Ryobi but I can buy a new one if needed but it should still work, hose and a driveway and/or street parking spot with plenty of space.

What should I buy for everything, soap, rags, foam, foam cannons, grit guards, buckets, drying towels, etc etc and anything else I might need. Ideally stuff that works but is also coating safe as I plan to get the car ceramic coated within the next couple months. I'm not sure if I need a repaint on my pass ever door or not before I do since the paints chipping

think this can be polished over and ceramic coated and then not worry about it or do I need this to be repainted?

 

[DFB5.0]

What would you recommend for future use, 2 bucket, pressure washer? Mix? I'm trying to establish a procedure for cleaning going forward, I have access to a old Ryobi but I can buy a new one if needed but it should still work, hose and a driveway and/or street parking spot with plenty of space.

For car washing, you want water flow and not ultimate high pressure. For that reason, you may find that a garden hose will be more efficient.

A great pressure washer setup for car washing boosts the flow and balances the pressure. The flow is what helps rinse soap away, the pressure facilitates the use of a foam cannon and in some cases help remove dirt and bugs more easily.

You can get VERY lost in the weeds when it comes to pressure washers. It's vital to pick the right machine to begin with than trying to make a sub-par unit perform how you want. I can go into this in great detail should you need, but a great starting point would be to look over what Obsessed Garage offer in this space. They have tailored packages for several machines spread across a several price points. Even if you don't buy from them, its a great way to see what you need to buy. So, have a look there and let me know you budget and I'll point you in the right direction............................

Pressure Washing – Obsessed Garage

What should I buy for everything, soap, rags, foam, foam cannons, grit guards, buckets, drying towels, etc etc and anything else I might need. Ideally stuff that works but is also coating safe as I plan to get the car ceramic coated within the next couple months.

For a full run down on what I recommend, check out this thread. Its extensive, so don't think you need to buy EVERYTHING listed there, use it to cherry pick.
(2) DFB'S LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF DETAILING - UPDATED AUGUST 2024 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

I'll try and break that down as briefly as possible -

- The 2-bucket method is a great starting point to work from. I actually recommend three buckets, two for washing, one for wheels.........................no cross contamination. So, three buckets, three grit guards (I use colour to differentiate so you don't mix up/cross contaminate, so black for wheels, blue and red for washing).

- You then need a good wash soap, I like Capro Reset but its quite expensive. So, look at Meguiar's Hyper Wash or Adam's Mega Foam as cheaper alternatives. All of these are great soaps that can be used in a bucket and/or foam cannon.

- If you are going to go the foam cannon route, look at the Griots Boss, MTM PF22.2 or Active. You can buy cheaper, but they are cheaply made and blow through more soap.

- Again, if you go with a pressure washer, consider adding a more powerful pre-wash soap that can be foamed on, left for a few minutes (in the shade if possible, just don't let dry), then rinsed. You subsequent contact wash will be safe. Look at Koch Chemie Active Foam, Capro Lift, Optimum Touch-less. Otherwise, Megs Hyper Wash is actually a little stronger than most, so it can be used like this as well.

- Wash Mitts, anything from The Rag Company will have you sorted, I like the Cyclone Ultra Wash Pad. Always wash after use.

- For drying, I like The Rag Company Gauntlet, in medium or large. Order two.

- Team the towel with a drying aid for lubrication by applying a few sprays to each panel before drying. Any detail spray will work, but something like Armour Detail Supply Amplify or Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Detailer will be ideal. This also helps prolong your coating, boosts gloss and slickness..............all while drying.

- You will want a couple of glass specific towels, I like the TRC Dry Me A River in 16x24 size. Order at least two. Team with Invisible Glass.

I'm not sure if I need a repaint on my pass ever door or not before I do since the paints chipping

Think this can be polished over and ceramic coated and then not worry about it or do I need this to be repainted?

I'd say that will need to be touched up or painted.

 

[Free Spirit]

For car washing, you want water flow and not ultimate high pressure. For that reason, you may find that a garden hose will be more efficient.

A great pressure washer setup for car washing boosts the flow and balances the pressure. The flow is what helps rinse soap away, the pressure facilitates the use of a foam cannon and in some cases help remove dirt and bugs more easily.

You can get VERY lost in the weeds when it comes to pressure washers. It's vital to pick the right machine to begin with than trying to make a sub-par unit perform how you want. I can go into this in great detail should you need, but a great starting point would be to look over what Obsessed Garage offer in this space. They have tailored packages for several machines spread across a several price points. Even if you don't buy from them, its a great way to see what you need to buy. So, have a look there and let me know you budget and I'll point you in the right direction............................

Pressure Washing – Obsessed Garage



For a full run down on what I recommend, check out this thread. Its extensive, so don't think you need to buy EVERYTHING listed there, use it to cherry pick.
(2) DFB'S LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF DETAILING - UPDATED AUGUST 2024 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

I'll try and break that down as briefly as possible -

- The 2-bucket method is a great starting point to work from. I actually recommend three buckets, two for washing, one for wheels.........................no cross contamination. So, three buckets, three grit guards (I use colour to differentiate so you don't mix up/cross contaminate, so black for wheels, blue and red for washing).

- You then need a good wash soap, I like Capro Reset but its quite expensive. So, look at Meguiar's Hyper Wash or Adam's Mega Foam as cheaper alternatives. All of these are great soaps that can be used in a bucket and/or foam cannon.

- If you are going to go the foam cannon route, look at the Griots Boss, MTM PF22.2 or Active. You can buy cheaper, but they are cheaply made and blow through more soap.

- Again, if you go with a pressure washer, consider adding a more powerful pre-wash soap that can be foamed on, left for a few minutes (in the shade if possible, just don't let dry), then rinsed. You subsequent contact wash will be safe. Look at Koch Chemie Active Foam, Capro Lift, Optimum Touch-less. Otherwise, Megs Hyper Wash is actually a little stronger than most, so it can be used like this as well.

- Wash Mitts, anything from The Rag Company will have you sorted, I like the Cyclone Ultra Wash Pad. Always wash after use.

- For drying, I like The Rag Company Gauntlet, in medium or large. Order two.

- Team the towel with a drying aid for lubrication by applying a few sprays to each panel before drying. Any detail spray will work, but something like Armour Detail Supply Amplify or Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Detailer will be ideal. This also helps prolong your coating, boosts gloss and slickness..............all while drying.

- You will want a couple of glass specific towels, I like the TRC Dry Me A River in 16x24 size. Order at least two. Team with Invisible Glass.



I'd say that will need to be touched up or painted.

I'll go through and make a list and check back, but this is roughly the pressure washer I have. The one I have isn't sold anymore but it's identical to this one just more black plastics. I'll look for exact specs in mine when I get home but most of the stickers fell off with use. They don't last very long before getting rusty unfortunately. Still works for now from what I recall but it sits behind a garage exposed to the elements with a tarp thrown over it but moisture still rusts all of the shiny chrome like metal that's there. No idea what the internals look like.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2...r-Electric-Pressure-Washer-RY142500/327680926

 

[DFB5.0]

It's been a while.....................

I've been experimenting with Drag Mode, specifically how it affects manual shift speed. The actual speed at which the shift is completed is extremely impressive. But I just wish there wasn't such a lag time between flipping the paddle and the gearbox responding. At least when in Drag mode, the shift is quicker, which tends to give the impression of a faster response.

 

[skinnyb]

Got a quick pic of my friend's Ecoboost over the weekend, I did apply ADS Wheel before they were mounted. Worked 7 days in a row last week, so I am running behind. I LOVE the new look, the bronze with the Rapid Red is a nice touch, MUCH better than the stock black wheels she had before, no offense to black wheel folks but they are just so blah. Now to get her back in and scrub the tires and get them dialed in

Before

After.... MUCH better

 

[Evolvd]

Got a quick pic of my friend's Ecoboost over the weekend, I did apply ADS Wheel before they were mounted. Worked 7 days in a row last week, so I am running behind. I LOVE the new look, the bronze with the Rapid Red is a nice touch, MUCH better than the stock black wheels she had before, no offense to black wheel folks but they are just so blah. Now to get her back in and scrub the tires and get them dialed in

Before

After.... MUCH better

Yes, bronze on rapid red does look killer

 

[DFB5.0]

After I detailed this 2012 Toyota Landcruiser back in April, I noted that the headlights were needing attention due to heavy oxidation and crazing. The owners have been using the vehicle more and more for caravan towing, doing some big distances in the process. I mentioned the headlights weren't very roadworthy in that condition and would probably need to be addressed at some point.

This image from April doesn't fully depict just how bad they were..............

Initially, I suggested the headlights could be polished out to buy some time, but the results would be short lived. Oxidation like this returns within a few months due to the degradation of the UV coating that is baked into the plastic at the factory. In the end, rather than investing time and money into something that would only yield short-term results, they decided to have the headlights replaced.

So, two brand new genuine Toyota headlights were installed yesterday. This was not a quick replacement, the job also involved removing that huge steel bull bar. With the bar out of the way, they could then remove the grill and truncated plastic bumper, which then gave access the headlight mounting hardware. So, two brand new genuine headlights, plus all of the labour to remove and re-install the bull bar, there wasn't much change out of $2000.

Before they took the vehicle in for this work, I asked if they could keep the old headlights so that I could have a go at re-finishing them. But when I went to pick them up this morning, I discovered just how truly massive these things are! When fitted to the vehicle, the headlight size is disguised by the sheer massiveness of the Landcruiser itself.

First off, I taped up the bulb locators to prevent getting moisture inside the lens. I then took some Green Star and a brush to clean off 13-years worth of dirt and grime from behind the unit and around the edges. For reference, this vehicle has been parked outdoors its whole life.

Again, the camera hides how bad they are. While the oxidation covered the entire lens, the top edge facing toward the sky had become yellowed and crazed. Now, I knew I wouldn't get all of that out, not unless I disassembled the entire headlight unit, and that wasn't happening.

I normally just polish headlights like this. In most cases a set of passes with a wool pad and a heavy compound knocks down the oxidation, then a pass with a finishing polish on a foam pad cleans them up. You won't get perfection, but considering how quick and simple this method is, the results are hardly disappointing.

As a general rule of thumb, you should never polish headlights unless needed. Just like paint, the more you polish, the more UV clear coating you remove, which in turn speeds up the decline. The thing is, if your headlights are showing signs yellowing or have a cloudy finish, that means the UV coating has already began to fail. In which case, polish away...............or replace them.

Just know that because the coating is compromised, the damage will continue to return, and return faster and faster after each polishing. The only way to stop this would be to lock in the finish with a clear coat or PPF. However, achieving a flat/uniform finish with clear coat is virtually impossible on headlights, and PPF is not always a readily available option for many. Also, ceramic coatings and dedicated headlight sealants only delay the inevitable, I know because I've tried them all.

On this occasion, I wanted to use these headlights as a learning platform, in particular wet sanding. This method requires considerably more time and effort, but is often required when the oxidation has progressed beyond what polishing alone can achieve. Also, if the UV clear coat has begun peeling or the headlight has a patchy look, wet sanding is your only option. In this situation, wet sanding will remove the remainder of the UV coating, in turn leveling the finish down to bare, smooth plastic.

First step, I stared with 400 grit. For lubrication during the whole sanding process, I used P&S Absolute at 128:1.

From there, I worked my way through 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit. In hindsight, I would probably start with 600 or 800 grit in the future.

The image directly above was taken after the 4000 grit. It was then time for polishing. I started with Sonax Cutmax on a Rupes blue wool, the most aggressive combo I have. From here, I switched to Sonax Perfect Finish on a ShineMate orange foam pad. This was my first time using the EB212, and wow, this thing is brilliant! Pad stall? What pad stall?

The side-by-side comparison is night and day!

Some crazing remains, which is locked inside the lens.

The process was then repeated for the second headlight. At some point, I'll ceramic coat them to provide at least some UV protection. Having said that, they won't be going back on the car anyway.

This was my first attempt at wet sanding headlights, so the finished result is far from perfect. In the future, having another grade or two of sand paper would likely produce a better finish. But as I said, I was using these as a learning tool, the owners knew this as well.

But, clearly I did a good enough job because the owners were impressed with the night and day before result. I was then told I could keep or sell them.

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