Installing suspension this weekend - any tips?

[Tucker80]

I used the spring compressor for the new fronts so I could remove the top hats and replace them with camber plates. I wasn't willing to remove the old struts and Install the new ones just to drop them back out to install the camber plates. Regardless I pushed back the install as it rained all day on saturday and was too cold on Sunday. Of course the weather changed and it already snowed Sunday night. It's supposed to be rainy all weekend again this weekend and I leave for Florida next Friday. So im just pushing it back until I get back and the weather hopefully cooperates.

Are you installing the Ford track suspension? If so the front springs are so much shorter that you can just unbolt the top nut. The springs aren't under any tension by about the top 1".

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[blankman]

Are you installing the Ford track suspension? If so the front springs are so much shorter that you can just unbolt the top nut. The springs aren't under any tension by about the top 1".

Yeah it's the track pack kit. Yeah I did noticed that the springs only compressed about 1/2" before they were removed completely from the isolator.

Appreciate the info about that. It's good to know that if I need to ever replace those I won't need a spring compressor.

 

[blankman]

Just out of random curiosity, what is the deal with all the white powder that is hard stuck to the all rubber and some of the coatings on the springs? Is it a no dry out type of thing as I've seen most of it on the rubber bushings and such? Or is it get your rocks off party thing? I just haven't seen anything like this on any parts I've ever ordered from anyone .

 

[Tucker80]

Just out of random curiosity, what is the deal with all the white powder that is hard stuck to the all rubber and some of the coatings on the springs? Is it a no dry out type of thing as I've seen most of it on the rubber bushings and such? Or is it get your rocks off party thing? I just haven't seen anything like this on any parts I've ever ordered from anyone .

Just a guess but it looks to me like it's to release from the molds

 

[blankman]

Just a guess but it looks to me like it's to release from the molds

That would make sense. I guess I never really thought about that. Considering the rubber on the springs, the residue on the springs with the new rubber isolators. Most of the white residue is around anything that is rubber.

Guess I thought all the extra residue they would've cleaned off, considering how much there is.

 

[blankman]

So im about to do a tool run to grab 1/2" extensions for the passenger side sway bar bolts. The driver side bolt underneath the alternator was a pain in the ass to get undone. I don't have ratcheting wrenches, so im trying to find a good solution when reinstalling that bolt. Any suggestions?

 

[Tucker80]

So im about to do a tool run to grab 1/2" extensions for the passenger side sway bar bolts. The driver side bolt underneath the alternator was a pain in the ass to get undone. I don't have ratcheting wrenches, so im trying to find a good solution when reinstalling that bolt. Any suggestions?

I'm going to catch hell for this but harbor freight icons are cheap option that perform surprisingly well.

 

[blankman]

Yeah they didn't have much there. I got a 24" 1/2" extension for the other 3 bolts. Freaking impact wouldn't even move the damn things. Had to the good ol extra pipe on the breaker bar to get those. The front bolt on the passenger side looked like someone just dipped the damn bolt in locktite. I had to use a marker to mark the bolt just i knew that we were moving it and we weren't rounding it or the extensions out.

I did end up going to lowes as harbor freight didn't sell single wrenches. Thankfully they're kiddy corner to each other. Got a 18mm ratcheting wrench for like 20$. Also scored a 24mm deep socket for impacts. Marked wrong, 6$. Wanted to make sure i didn't round out the nut on the shock bolts. Got lucky and was able to not damage the nut with my shallow socket when removing it.

Also got lucky as those splined bolts only took 3 hits each with the sledge to push the splines out. Biggest pain in the ass was everything to do with that sway bar. I wish I would've known the oem sway bar mounts are completely closed off. I thought they wouldn't have a bottom plate like the new mounting hardware had. Took me about 30 mins to realize this trying to remove those to make more room. It took me and my nephew a little over an hour getting the old sway bar out. 10 mins for the new one to go in.

Now we've just gotta do the rear suspension. So that'll wait till the weekend I'm back from vacation.

 

[blankman]

Torque the components in red while the suspension is loaded. Easiest way is to jack up the corner of the vehicle right before it lifts off of the jackstands and then torque to spec.

Regarding this information, I wonder if I would be better off just asking the shop to check these when I take it in for an alignment?

 

[greasy]

Regarding this information, I wonder if I would be better off just asking the shop to check these when I take it in for an alignment?

Yeah you can have them do that. They might want to charge extra.

 

[blankman]

So im planning on finishing up the rear suspension this weekend. I have heard the suggest for using a ball joint press to remove the knuckle bushings to press in the new spherical . Looking at loan a tool from advanced or autozone and was wondering if there was a preference anyone has that has used them from either company?

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