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Evenmetal

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What caught fire?

Evenmetal, do you have a new battery? Have you done the BMS reset? Are you running an AG battery?

The AG batteries are very hit or miss in these cars. My AG was a huge miss. It now powers my trailer winch.
I am indeed running an AG battery, maybe that had something to do with the initial voltage irregularities? I have not done a BMS reset.
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WItoTX

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I am indeed running an AG battery, maybe that had something to do with the initial voltage irregularities? I have not done a BMS reset.
Try the reset. It will help. Are you running a DSC suspension tuner? If you are, you are probably going to continue having issues.

The people who seem to have luck with an AG run the factory suspension controller.
 

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Great luck with the AG here. And my car is bone stock electronically speaking. No controller, no stereo components, etc. and I literaly never watch my voltmeter. That thing will drive you bonkers.
 

Evenmetal

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Try the reset. It will help. Are you running a DSC suspension tuner? If you are, you are probably going to continue having issues.

The people who seem to have luck with an AG run the factory suspension controller.
I am not running the DSC tuner. Sounds like the AG battery's are not a good fit for these cars?
 

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I think they work on some, not on others. I never chased down what the issue was once I replaced it with an AGM. You might be alright, just need to do the BMS reset.
 

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Evolvd

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I am not running the DSC tuner. Sounds like the AG battery's are not a good fit for these cars?
It certainly wasn’t for mine, it caused all sorts of nasty voltage issues. Thankfully I was able to return it for a refund after AG agreed to reimburse the reseller I bought it from. Porsche owners have similar issues with their batts…some work fine, but most have nothing but problems with them.
 

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AG ATX-20-hd battery made my system go haywire after 2 months of use. Dunno if it killed my alternator or if my alternator died due to “natural gt350 causes”. The guy at a AG booth at an event I was at said I should have gotten the 600 dollar full size version which negates all of the weight savings properties anyway vs the stock 25lb "lightweight" ford/motorcraft battery or an "Odyssey" which is what my friend runs in his GT350R HEP. Similar size to the motorcraft but more CCAs. 600 vs the stock 330 or so of the stock battery. I'd go with that next after the motorcraft that replaced the AG is dead.
 
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Evolvd

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AG ATX-20-hd battery made my system go haywire after 2 months of use. Dunno if it killed my alternator or if my alternator died due to “natural gt350 causes”. The guy at a AG booth at an event I was at said I should have gotten the 600 dollar full size version which negates all of the weight savings properties anyway vs the stock 25lb "lightweight" ford/motorcraft battery or an "Odyssey" which is what my friend runs in his GT350R HEP. Similar size to the motorcraft but more CCAs. 600 vs the stock 330 or so of the stock battery.
The full size H3 is the problem because of its “Restart” feature. It screws with the Ford BMS by limiting incoming voltage making it think the battery is being undercharged. This forces to BMS to ramp up alternator output thinking the electrical system is about to die.
 

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The full size H3 is the problem because of its “Restart” feature. It screws with the Ford BMS by limiting incoming voltage making it think the battery is being undercharged. This forces to BMS to ramp up alternator output thinking the electrical system is about to die.

I got my battery a couple years ago and haven't kept up with the topic, but the Restart feature and its issues were widely discussed even back then. I am pretty darn sure they did, or do, have a 30-HD now without the restart. I didn't get the 30 at my time because back then, there was no super easy mounting solution that didn't interfere with the factory battery box lid. That, and not having any additional electrical items drove me to just roll the dice on the 20.
 
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ChipG

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My best guess on the fire was a clutch line coming loose at the brake master cylinder (clutch pedal dropped to the floor) and fluid igniting on the hot headers. Fire center was near the master cylinder. Then, fuel line comes through the firewall nearby, so heat melts the rubber line going to the manifold and then more fuel for the fire. Yike.

I'm now using the AG 20HD *mostly* successfully. I've had it a couple of times go completely off when shutting off the engine, in one case requiring a jump and in the other eventually coming back to life after maybe 20 minutes allowing a normal restart. I have also had it go a little crazy while driving with center stack shutting down and voltmeter going nuts. These times were typically after the car sat for a couple of days. My theory is battery voltage dropped while sitting, BMS tried recharging and didn't understand the feedback from the AG battery and went crazy. I've since disconnected the inductive rings around the 2 main battery cables to basically disable the BMS and leave charging steady, and have yet to have issues since (it's only been about a week). Fingers crossed.
 

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Evolvd

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My best guess on the fire was a clutch line coming loose at the brake master cylinder (clutch pedal dropped to the floor) and fluid igniting on the hot headers. Fire center was near the master cylinder. Then, fuel line comes through the firewall nearby, so heat melts the rubber line going to the manifold and then more fuel for the fire. Yike.

I'm now using the AG 20HD *mostly* successfully. I've had it a couple of times go completely off when shutting off the engine, in one case requiring a jump and in the other eventually coming back to life after maybe 20 minutes allowing a normal restart. I have also had it go a little crazy while driving with center stack shutting down and voltmeter going nuts. These times were typically after the car sat for a couple of days. My theory is battery voltage dropped while sitting, BMS tried recharging and didn't understand the feedback from the AG battery and went crazy. I've since disconnected the inductive rings around the 2 main battery cables to basically disable the BMS and leave charging steady, and have yet to have issues since (it's only been about a week). Fingers crossed.
I tried disconnecting my induction rings as well…it didn’t help in my case.
 
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ChipG

ChipG

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I tried disconnecting my induction rings as well…it didn’t help in my case.
Well I'll keep y'all posted. I'm not running DSC controller or other aftermarket electronics, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm still carrying my OEM battery in the trunk for the moment until I have more confidence.
 

WItoTX

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AG ATX-20-hd battery made my system go haywire after 2 months of use. Dunno if it killed my alternator or if my alternator died due to “natural gt350 causes”. The guy at a AG booth at an event I was at said I should have gotten the 600 dollar full size version which negates all of the weight savings properties anyway vs the stock 25lb "lightweight" ford/motorcraft battery or an "Odyssey" which is what my friend runs in his GT350R HEP. Similar size to the motorcraft but more CCAs. 600 vs the stock 330 or so of the stock battery. I'd go with that next after the motorcraft that replaced the AG is dead.
Good for you! I tried the same route, and they refused to help. In one respect, I get it. In the other, I called them directly to ask exactly what size I should buy. They told me the ATX-20 would be perfect.

So now I have a really nice winch battery 😂
 

melown

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Good for you! I tried the same route, and they refused to help. In one respect, I get it. In the other, I called them directly to ask exactly what size I should buy. They told me the ATX-20 would be perfect.

So now I have a really nice winch battery 😂
I sold mine to a guy with a 2000s BMW track car,
 

Evenmetal

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I tried the BMS reset. No luck. Still getting the service charging system error. Already removed the alternator and will either put in a new one, and I'll replace the pigtail connector. If the error still pursues I'll probably have to replace the harness.
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