Whipple squeal sound-resolved

[ramairgt1]

Problem has been resolved

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[HKusp]

So how do you tune the car if you don't have a tuner? without doing a smoke test, and the ability to data log, you're not going to have an easy time figuring this out. That is a crazy whistle. I wouldn't run that car hard until you get a handle on this.

 

[mejohn50]

A few questions:

- Has this been happening since the supercharger was installed or is it a new noise?

- Did you do the install yourself?

- Have you unhooked vacuum to the bypass valve, plugged that vacuum source, and tried to duplicate the noise?

- Have you taken any logs with whatever Whipple tool you loaded the tune with? Seeing those could help pinpoint if there‘s a vacuum leak.

- Is the car running correctly otherwise as far as you can tell?

I‘m leaning towards something with the bypass since it does it right when the bypass loses vacuum when you shut the car off.

 

[Coastal-Mach]

In the second video, the sound matches the valve below the throttle body, when it operates. It could be as simple as the diaphragm.

 

[Angrey]

100% something in the bypass.

 

[gsxr1300]

Did the installer load the whipple tune?

 

[HKusp]

I pulled the intake last night and looked inside the throttle body, It was pretty dirty so I am going to clean it and see what happens.
How hard is it to remove the Whipple cover to access the bypass?

Pretty easy. I believe it's just a 10mm socket and a ratchet and maybe an extension. There is a torque sequence when replacing it though. I wouldn't rule out the o-ring on the underside of the lid.

 

[Temovic55]

Yes, back in '21. This issue has been going on for 3 months.

Try installing Whipple's bypass restrictor! it will help eliminating that diaphram shutting noise.

 

[Angrey]

Pretty easy. I believe it's just a 10mm socket and a ratchet and maybe an extension. There is a torque sequence when replacing it though. I wouldn't rule out the o-ring on the underside of the lid.

Didn't think of that, when the bypass actuates, could be creating a momentary vacuum condition that's a leak at the main seal.

 

[Basspro302]

Just pinch the vacuum line and see if it’s still there

 

[HKusp]

I'm not loving that one section of the lid o-ring that looks like it's peeling away. While you have it off, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to put a new one on. I know that one is a PIA to get it to fit and not bunch up, but it can't be expensive and while you have the lid off (if you still do), it would be good insurance at this point.

 

[HKusp]

Whipple sent me replacement o-rings and gaskets. I started to replace the o-ring that is peeling but it seems too large. I compared the length to the current o-ring and they are the same.
There must be a trick to putting them on, just need to figure it out.

You have to work it without stretching it. Use an o-ring lube and push down with your thumbs not length-wise when putting it in the groove. Actually try and squeeze each section together as you are pushing it in, if that makes sense.

 

[Angrey]

Source of the noise has been found. It is the oil fill cap. Air escapes around the o-ring when the car is warmed up. Not sure if there is too much pressure but I am going to replace the cap to start.

Definitely check your CPV system and ensure it's flowing adequately, if it's plugged or restricted you might be getting additional pressure delta on the valve covers and any openings, gaskets, pathways out. In essence, it might not be a faulty oil cap, it might be you're getting excessive crank case pressure and it's finding the weakest spot to relieve itself. If you step up the oil cap seal, it may find the next weakest location (like valve cover seal/gasket).

 

[HKusp]

Funny, I sent an email to Whipple this morning asking them about venting/catch can locations because back in the spring I blew my oil filler cap off under boost. Replaced it and then the oil pan gasket started leaking, particularly under boost. Replaced it, it leaked again when in boost. Went with the PBH Gen-1/2 metal oil pan conversion kit and put a vented breather from UPR on the oil filler. Not sure why I have so much crank case pressure, other than I gapped my rings for boost. I'll let you know what Whipples response is to my question.

 

[HKusp]

From Whipple support after looking at pictures of my engine compartment and me telling them what was going on with the oil pan gasket.


Jason,

The PVC routing looks correct. Make sure the passenger side hose does not have a kink. The way the hose bends looks odd, and a kink there would create high pressure in the crank case. Also make sure there are no blockages in either of the PCV hoses. The passenger side should communicate freely into the supercharger inlet and the driver side to the intake tube. The breather on the oil fill would need a check valve to prevent a vacuum leak as well.

If you install a breather catch can, the port on the supercharger inlet and intake tube are normally plugged/capped off. The PCV valve on the passenger side is replaced with a free flow fitting and both the driver and passenger side valve covers connect to the breather catch can system. The breather on the oil fill would no longer be needed.



Thank you,
Whipple Support

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