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Unloaded stealth box available?

DrZed

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Want to consider making more room in trunk and getting a stealth box. I already have a 10" Pioneer sub, was trying to avoid having to get a loaded stealth box (12"?). Any options, other than getting it made locally?
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DrZed

DrZed

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Thank you all!
 

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Evolvd

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You can make one for less than $75
uhm, I’d like to see your material and tool list to do so. A sheet of 3/4 MDF is $58 alone. So sure, you could build a square box and glue it together for $75 but I’ll look like ass and probably won’t last. Having designed and fabricated my own system I have a bit of knowledge in this area.
 

Bassackwards

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uhm, I’d like to see your material and tool list to do so. A sheet of 3/4 MDF is $58 alone. So sure, you could build a square box and glue it together for $75 but I’ll look like ass and probably won’t last. Having designed and fabricated my own system I have a bit of knowledge in this area.
Ive already built one and posted it here. Why use mdf? I used a small piece of plywood , a carpet trunk liner from a wreck, and some fiberglass. It works great.
 

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Ive already built one and posted it here. Why use mdf? I used a small piece of plywood , a carpet trunk liner from a wreck, and some fiberglass. It works great.
Plywood is horrible for subwoofer boxes, it’s flimsy and won’t withstand the pressures created by any competent sub. There’s a very good reason no serious builder uses plywood. As for fiberglass, that’s a skill set most people don’t have or want to learn.

Build it right or build it twice.
 

Bassackwards

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Plywood is horrible for subwoofer boxes, it’s flimsy and won’t withstand the pressures created by any competent sub. There’s a very good reason no serious builder uses plywood. As for fiberglass, that’s a skill set most people don’t have or want to learn.

Build it right or build it twice.
mine appears to be holding up just fine and I’m pretty sure that I push mine harder than 99%.

this is plenty strong enough
IMG_3030.jpeg


especially after adding another 3/4” ring to the hole for just a little more airspace.
 

Evolvd

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mine appears to be holding up just fine and I’m pretty sure that I push mine harder than 99%.

this is plenty strong enough
IMG_3030.jpeg


especially after adding another 3/4” ring to the hole for just a little more airspace.
Time will tell.
 

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Evolvd

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FYI every single website that I searched says that plywood is stronger than mdf. Why don’t they use mdf in structural applications?
If you use a hardwood like Birch Ply, yes it’s very strong and slightly lighter than MDF. Yellow Pine is soft. So if you want to use plywood stick to hardwood types and at least 9-13 layer. The other important thing to consider is sound profile. Believe it or not the type of wood used affects sound production.
 

Bassackwards

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If you use a hardwood like Birch Ply, yes it’s very strong and slightly lighter than MDF. Yellow Pine is soft. So if you want to use plywood stick to hardwood types and at least 9-13 layer. The other important thing to consider is sound profile. Believe it or not the type of wood used affects sound production.
Everything is a compromise. I'm tickled with the way mine sounds, fits, and I still have almost all of my trunk space. It blows the factory sub away and only cost $75 or less to build, not including the speaker. Less for me because I already had a scrap piece of plywood.
 

RiotfunK

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It’s not for strength. It’s for sound. Plywood will reverberate and flex. MDF won’t and is much more dense. Is also heavier. But in the back of the Mustang probably won’t make a huge difference since you’re not pushing spl.
 

Bassackwards

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It can be done op. Here is mine before the carpet was installed.

IMG_6100.jpeg


Excuse the dent in the cover and beach sand in the pic. This is a work vehicle and that stuff gets everywhere!
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