How bad is this damage?

[revolio_gt]

Was in a crash going maybe 30km/h, rear ended someone, then someone rear ended me. Thought it was no big deal and repairable, honestly thought it was just cosmetic damage at first. Now my insurance is telling me that want to write the car off because there's "front rail" damage, can anyone smarter than me tell me if the damage really is that bad? Added some photos

Am I just being stubborn in thinking there's no way this is a write-off, and should be repairable? My payout is only $45k (AUD), and I bought it for $44k, but I've put like $8k of mods into it so would honestly rather it just be repaired if possible. Insurance said the quote to repair was $50k, hence why they want to write it off

Photos are here: and

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[The Insomnimaniac]

Following because I’d like to see other’s input.

 

[Nightmonkey]

It looks like you hit a hitch.
The damage is extensive and probably not economically repairable.

I don't know how it works for you with the modifications and how they can be included in the assessment.
Only another Aussie can say.

 

[xcm77]

write it off, get the insurance money, keep the car, take it in to some eastern european mechanic to have it fixed. bam, double win

 

[revolio_gt]

It looks like you hit a hitch.
The damage is extensive and probably not economically repairable.

I don't know how it works for you with the modifications and how they can be included in the assessment.
Only another Aussie can say.

correct, the car in front had a tow bar, that really didn’t help t

if it gets written off I would have to figure out how to take the modifications off, it will just be a massive pain in the ass, and unfortunately for the most expensive part, the headers, I didn’t keep the stock headers, probably can’t swap in the old stock manifold either since I had to mess with the hosing to put on my 2020 manifold

even if I find a place willing to repair it, is the damage bad enough that it’ll never drive the same again?

 

[Nightmonkey]

Everything can be repaired.

The question is how well you want to do it, i.e. how safe you want the car to be afterwards.
If you ever want to sell the car again (even if you don't intend to at the moment), then repairing it probably doesn't make any sense.

There may be further surprises when dismantling, and you can only make an honest assessment once you have dismantled the entire breakage.

The sheet metal alone is a huge amount of work (probably both front side members, rear panel with spare wheel well), and that's before you've even repaired the wiring harness, cooling system and air conditioning.

If you have the skills, the possibilities (spare garage space, tools...), you can make the thing good again as a hobby.

Have you looked at what vehicles are available on the market to replace it?

I would remove intact tuning parts, even if there are no replacements.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Myself, I would try to get as much of the bolt on stuff off of it as I could, take the payout and move on. Like Nightmonkey said, everything can be repaired. But, at what cost and how much time. And, unless you have the skills and ability to restore it, it will be a hole that you will throw a lot of money into and still have a salvage title. If you need a hole to put money into, buy a boat or a corvette.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Once a unibody frame rail is bent or crushed, usually many Ins. Co.’s will want to total the vehicle even if the exterior doesn’t look bad physically.

The reason being is the frame rails are a structural part of the unibody - and in some cases they would need to be replaced as opposed to trying to pull them back into order on a frame machine.

To replace rails on any Mustang from 1964 to current involves quite a bit of dismantling because the rails are spot welded to the floor pans, intersect forward or rearward to torque box areas, extend up into the engine bay (or trunk pan) and at the front of the vehicle they intersect with the front core support. That’s quite a bit of dismantling and quite a bit of labor hours to replace frame rails, and there’s no telling what other damages are hidden that need the repair. Add all of that into the equation in addition to any/all outside body and other visible damages, the repair bill gets high.

Usually to total out a vehicle, the crash damages have to be 72%-75% of ACV (actual cash value). So if the repairs hit close enough to those percentage margins where it’s going to cost more to repair the car than what it is worth (from an Insurance perspective), it’s done.

If they’re going to total it - do as you stated, remove as many of your aftermarket parts as possible BEFORE agreeing to any payout or relinquishing the vehicle to the Ins. Company.

Also do not accept their 1st, 2nd or 3rd payout offer until you are satisfied that the payout is fair and is as close to the value of the car as it was in stock form.

Go here and get your “today” value of the vehicle (fill in all applicable fields and options past the VIN entry):
http://www.blackbookportals.com/bb/products/usedcarhtmlportal.asp?color=o&companyid=thinkbank.com

Black Book valuations are THE most accurate. This is what Financial Lenders, Dealerships, Ins. Industry and Body/Salvage facilities use. Don’t go by Blue Book BS, that deal is just “consumer feel good” figures.…. If you want accuracy, it’s the Black Book and those values change daily…

 

[Crew4991]

even if I find a place willing to repair it, is the damage bad enough that it’ll never drive the same again?

Take it to a mechanic/shop to get an actual assessment by someone that can analyze the damage instead of asking the peanut gallery with some photos.

My response of “it looks repairable based on pics” doesn’t mean shit since I can’t analyze parts or inspect the surrounding area myself.

 

[ORRadtech]

If the car is still drivable, take it to a repair shop or two to get your own independent estimates.
You didn't show interior photos, did any airbags deploy? Did your seatbelt deploy?
As for the mods, did you contact the insurance company and add a rider for them? If not you may be able to present receipts and negotiate some compensation. It won't be easy or all you spent.
You ask "could it be repaired and drive the same?" And the answer is yes. A competent repair shop could fix it and you would never know the difference had you not seen it before. There are tons of people here in the US that make a good living repairing and reselling far more damaged cars than that.
But to the insurance company that "could it" doesn't matter. To them it's all about their p&l tables and where the damage to your car falls in that table.

 

[xcm77]

even if I find a place willing to repair it, is the damage bad enough that it’ll never drive the same again?

No, it'll drive like new if fixed by a capable mechanic/shop. Most second hand Mustangs sold (ie. imported) in Europe were written off (damaged beyond belief some of them even), repaired and sold. I personally know quite a few owners that have written off and repaired Mustangs. And by written off I mean serious damage like flood or rear panel(s) + tire(s) flew off in the crash, etc. They all drive like new. The same cannot be said about the crash protection however. Once the metal deforms, no matter how perfectly you fix it, the structure's done, it'll fold like paper next crash. But, it's half the price of a new one so

 

[5550snotamerc]

Not sure how this works in Oz, but in the US it is my understanding that if the insurance company writes off the car they take the title. If you wanted to take the payoff and then rebuild the car you would have to buy the salvage vehicle from the insurance company. Also, as Cobra Jet said you need to grab your stuff before you accept the payment.

 

[Nightmonkey]

The reason being is the frame rails are a structural part of the unibody - and in some cases they would need to be replaced as opposed to trying to pull them back into order on a frame machine.

Seems like, that there a OEM repair part for just the end of the frame rail (10462) does not exist for the S550?

At least, the pan is a single part:

 

[ORRadtech]

The same cannot be said about the crash protection however. Once the metal deforms, no matter how perfectly you fix it, the structure's done, it'll fold like paper next crash. But, it's half the price of a new one so

That part is not necessarily true.

If all that happens is damage is pulled and hammered out then, yes, the structural integrity is compromised.
In the US that is not allowed. There are specific requirements and procedures for nearly any repair made, including frame repairs. Frames can be cut and welded and still meet safety standards. Not in every instance, but it is possible. And vehicles that have been written off and later repaired must undergo an inspection by state authorities to verify the repairs were done properly and the car is safe.

Outside the US though, I don't know what standards have to be met.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Anything is possible. But, it’s a Mustang not a gull-wing Mercedes. It has already been mention that if the damage hits 75% of value it’s toast. Unless it has very special emotional value and/or good potential future value it will be a money pit.

Follow CJ’s advice and get another car.

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