Boosted and InterChillin'

[Grimreaper]

You have this setup correct?

The issue you'll run in to is the PMAS fenderwell tube begins to hit the headlight assembly as you rotate the inlet clockwise. I had to shave a clip to make clearance for the minor rotation mine requires.

The lower fenderwell tube could be flipped. I'll see if that points it towards the firewall .

Yep that's the setup. Please do share if your able to see if flipping will allow room to rotate the tube towards the firewall. That is an area of concern. I asked pmas to make a tube last year for their blower intake setup but they turned me down.

I've thought about cutting into the front panel in front of the apron too and then adding ducting to the roush airbox. Limited space every where though.

Might chamfer the inside lip on the 5" to 4" reducer

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[SH!FT]

Might chamfer the inside lip on the 5" to 4" reducer

Thought about that, but the dust collector reducer fitting is pretty thin.


I tried flipping the lower fenderwell tube. It didn't help.

Bet you can make the N-MT14-3 kit meet up with the Roush boot with an extra lower fenderwell tube. Both fenderwell tubes would need to be cut. I'd have them include a 6" or 8" long 5" coupler as well.

They gave me a pretty good discount on the kit and extra components with the understanding that I share how I made it fit the gen3 Roush. PMAS might be willing to do the same for you. [email protected]

 

[Grimreaper]

I'll have to circle back with them then and ask. Thank you for checking the angle with the ends flipped. Two tubes would give plenty of angles and length to play with. Does seem doable.

 

[SH!FT]

Adding drain port to the Roush intercooler reservoir bottle:

A quick side project before the ice tank install... I got fed up with not having a drain port in the reservoir bottle.

I converted one of the brass insert mounting points on the tank into a drain by simply drilling through the plastic without damaging the M8 x 1.25mm threads. The Roush provided flange bolts aren't stainless but.. the button cap screw for the pump mounting clamp is. I tapped a M6 SS washer to M8 x 1.25mm. Tightened the washer onto the button cap with a little thread sealant followed by a rubber washer.

I opened the mounting hole on the bracket to 7/8". It would be better at 1". I forgot to account for the rubber washer expanding. Swapping over the flange bolt to secure the pump clamp causes no issue.

I can now drain the IC coolant and engine coolant without having to fully disassemble the whole reservoir assembly every time. Wohoo!

 

[SH!FT]

Relocating the driver's side UPR catch can:

The DS catch can needs to move to make room for the ice tank. Think I found a good spot between the ice tank and CAI 5" tube. The PMAS CAI kit comes with the right PCV hose to fit the dirty side. I can continue to use the UPR provided clean side hose.

UPR did a nice job making both cans quick to remove and empty. I didn't want to lose that functionality. Press-fitting a 1/4" thick nylon spacer onto the UPR mount keeps the hardware from falling into the engine bay abyss. I found a cheap Steel M10 x 1.5mm Knob on McMaster-Carr to secure it. The knob is pretty beefy. I'll make one from aluminum later.

 

[SH!FT]

Retrofitting the VMP-SUC059 GT500 ice tank kit:
This was surprisingly easy.

Ice tank mounting plate:
VMP's included bracket works well, but it won't fit with the spacers that I stack under the strut tower brace to clear the blower.

I was able to shift the mounting location by cutting the bracket off at the first strut mounting slot. Had to increase the width of each tank mounting hole by 0.2". Gave it a few minor bends (marked in white) and added a fender washer.

Hoses and insulation:
The 3/4" heater hose supplied by VMP are plenty long enough. I found some cheap AN12 aluminum hose separator mounting clamps to secure the hoses to the valve cover. I drilled/tapped the clamps to M6 x 1mm and secured with 25mm long SS cap screws.

I was dreading this part... Removing the 2 Roush provided constant tension clamps from the back of the IC to disconnect the hard lines is not fun with the blower installed. Hindsight is 20/20. Throw out those constant tension clamps, and install worm gear clamps instead.

The short 90 hose is 18".
Long 90 is 29" with 1.5" cut from the 90 end.
Straight hose is 31".

- 1.5" 3:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing
- 1" and 1.25" PET Braided Sleeving
- Dayco Brass Hose Connectors

I wrapped the ice tank in the remaining foam insulation sheet provided by FI interchillers. Reinforced the seams with Gorilla duct tape. Plugged the ice tank drain port at the rear with a 1/4 NPT plug. Installed the 3/8 NPT Roush LTR water temp sensor into the middle 3/4 NPT port to avoid getting a CEL.

I wanted a way to physically confirm when the chiller is producing sub-freezing coolant temps. My solution was to press-fit an aluminum ring onto the barb fitting for the supply hose. I should see that ring frost over.

I'm happy with how the plumbing turned out. No need for the Roush IC de-gas bottle anymore. I'll be making a plate to cover those holes in the fan shroud.

Getting there! Next up:
- Install the Foster whine sound tube in the PMAS CAI.
- Refill the IC system and hopefully measure the compacity gain.
- Address issues found after engine start.
- Make things look pretty.

 

[SH!FT]

Retrofitting the Foster whine sound tube:

My original install onto the Roush airbox is here: post #55
The ice tank blocks the designed route for the 1" ID sound tube. The tube is not super flexible.

Goals

• Don't yank the tube out of the firewall
• Keep tube away from the exhaust manifold
• Add quick disconnect
• Don't obstruct ability to remove oil dip stick, coils, or plugs
• Get tube passed the ice tank
• CAI tube must still be easy to install/remove
• Must look halfway decent

Found the 1" plastic cam-and-groove quick disconnects on McMaster-Carr for <$20. Amazon has them with free shipping.

https://www.mcmaster.com/5237T23/
https://www.mcmaster.com/5535K17/

I made some minor mods to ease the install.

Mounting Bracket
I cut the excess off of a 38-63mm worm clamp and added a M6 x 1mm threaded hole for a shaved down pan head screw. It was then mounted onto the leftover UPR catch can bracket to start testing fitment. The bracket mounting screw is a M8 x 1.25mm Allen cap with lock washer

The original M10 x 1.5mm Allen cap screw shown above was making bracket adjustments unpleasant, so I milled the UPR bracket base to fit a shaved hex head bolt. I pulled remaining tube through the brake hard lines before heatshrinking the end and installing the female disconnect. I've cut a total of 16.5" off of the Foster sound tube.

I installed 11.5" of NAPA 1" ID heater hose onto the PMAS intake tube using the Foster provided fitting and grommet. Male disconnect installed on the other end.

I'm happy with the fitment. I was easily able to confirm that the sound tube didn't pull away from the firewall by shining a flashlight through the membrane cap in driver's side footwell.

The volume of the sound tube is adjustable. I'll be dampening it once the car is back on the road.

 

[SH!FT]

Ice tank modification:

I started by testing the VMP ice tank with 1 gallon of coolant and burped the system. Recirculating through the top 3/4 NPT without ice causes 2 issues.

1. Coolant sprays on breather
2. Foam

To stop the leak I bought 2 breathers with splash guards and a 1/8 NPT nylon plug. I ended up plugging the breather port. All breathers leaked when I went for a ride. I should really get a pressure relief valve instead. The Roush de-gas cap is rated at 16 psi.

I made a diverter to address the foam. This was a PITA.. The tank had to be drained and disassembled.
***Edit*** I've removed this diverter. It restricts water flow and made the tank cover seal leak.

I started with buying anther Banjo 90 Degree Elbow. It's a tight fit in the tank, so I used the mill and rotary to make the elbow fit in a socket. I also had to remove a barb from the outer elbow, so it would fit passed the water temp sensor. A step bit and right angle drill were used to remove some excess plastic in order to thread the modified inner elbow inside the tank. The threads are aluminum and super easy to damage if the plastic removal is not done carefully.

The tank had to be thoroughly cleaned before reinstalling.

The VMP tank works great for this application. It holds at least 1.5 gallons of coolant and gravity feeds nicely.

The Roush de-gas bottle holds 1 quart which does not gravity feed through the system.

 

[SH!FT]

Wrapping up the compacity project:

I commandeered some aluminum and Delrin scraps.

The mini lathe came in handy to clean up the harsh transitions on that 5" to 4" reducer fitting.

I used the benchtop mill and a buddy's laser engraver to block off the holes left by removing the Roush IC de-gas bottle.

No fitment issues with the bumper and undercover reinstalled.

The included PMAS fenderwell block-off plate will not fit my setup. I'll put the effort into making my own if there's a clean way to redirect the fresh air flow from the grille duct down to the fenderwell. IAT1 only rises few degrees at a stop with no block off installed.
I'm also considering if it's worth adding an access door in the undercover to quickly reach the CAI.

This was a fun winter project. I think it cost me less than $1,000 .
I will be very close to reaching my goal of 2 gallons of additional IC coolant compacity if I top off the VMP tank.
The coolant obviously now takes slightly longer to chill but... temps are staying incredibly consistent when I continuously mash on the throttle. I'll post some temps once the weather gets warmer.

Before:

Up next.. front/rear subframe reinforcement!

 

[SH!FT]

I'm pumped to see that the exposed aluminum ring installed on the IC supply line works as I intended. It's a quick physical confirmation that the chiller is chillin'.

The 12°F coolant frosts it up nicely. The return coolant remains cold enough to frost the exposed aluminum on the ice tank. I'd have to connect the laptop to see what the return temps are.

 

[SH!FT]

Finally installed the subframe bracing and took the car for a front/rear wheel alignment.

HUGE improvement! She hooks better and stays straighter when the Goodyear's do break loose. Upgrading the tires is a must do. I'm thinking MPS4's.

Steeda 555 5532 Extreme G-Trac K-Member Brace $176
I got an awesome black Friday deal. It's easy to install.
The changes made to the 2018+ front subframe make this install slightly harder than what's shown for the 2015 in the Steeda install video and CJ Pony install video. Steeda's PDF instructions were more accurate, but a little vague. This video was helpful, but his hardware kit is different from what I received.

I cut the spacer rods to 4" and bent the last 1" to 90 before installing.

My subframe had the metal slags. They're super easy to remove with a flathead and needle nose. A magnet comes in handle if the slag falls into the subframe.

CJ Pony recommends installing the front M14 SHCS bolts using a 12mm head bolt and nut if you don't have a 12 mm Allen socket. Yeah.. don't do this. M8 grade 8.8 bolt will snap well before the torque spec is reached. I ended up making a 12 mm Allen key out of a 5/8" bolt to get the job done.

Steeda 555 4438 IRS Subframe Alignment Kit $42
The alignment kit is simple and good quality. The dowels are within 0.001". It's worth full price ($70) to not have to make them.

The Steeda PDF instructions, Steeda install video, and CJ Pony install video are all good.

My rear subframe was slightly misaligned, so I had to loosen all 4 of the 21 mm hex heads before installing.

The exhaust was in the way of the rear bolts (maybe due to the H-pipe install ).

Steeda 555 5754 Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces $276
The Steeda PDF instructions, Steeda install video, and CJ Pony install video are all good.

I found later that the IRS braces like having the front subframe support brackets tapped towards the driveshaft before tightening the 21 mm and 13 mm hex heads. Best to do this during the alignment kit install.

Front/Rear wheel alignment $156
Not something I'm willing to DIY. Plus, I really like my local repair shop:

• They're 3 minutes from the house.
• There's always a supercar or 2 on the lot.
• They let me stay with the car and turn wrenches.

Factory alignment specs: here

Rear toe was out of spec. Hopefully this is the cause of the rear inner tire wear on the Goodyear's.

Values were tightened to the recommended specs here.

The rear camber is a PITA to adjust.

 

[SH!FT]

I'm considering a Tesla screen.

The Phoenix PX6 and the Merge Screens Tesla-Style Screen look to be the same rebranded unit. I emailed both. Merge Screens responded quickly asking for pics of my dash.

• https://www.featuredphoenixautomoti...n-navigation-radio-for-ford-mustang-2015-2019
• https://www.mergescreens.com/produc...a-style-carplay-screen?variant=42251763450027

Could see myself going down a firmware rabbit hole.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/phoenix-px6-review.133580/
https://sergeykozlov.ru/

video showing how to remove the radio bezel

 

[Unas2k5]

What kind of jack is that under your car? Ive never seen one like that.

 

[SH!FT]

What kind of jack is that under your car? Ive never seen one like that.

QuickJack 7000TLX
More details in post #98

 

[Unas2k5]

QuickJack 7000TLX
More details in post #98

Nice. I need one of this maybe the 5000 tho.

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