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Did a pull, Crank sensor went out

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GrayS550

GrayS550

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Something letting go in the clutch is very likely, based on the issues you describe (getting into gear and the engine dying when you slowly release the clutch). If not that, perhaps a broken tooth on the flywheel or crank trigger wheel.

Tranny is definitely going to have to come out now for sure to get to the bottom of it. I don’t see any other way around it.
So the car still drives. I put it in reverse and just kicked up the RPMs to around 2k and slowly released clutch and it still drove. Still Misfiring though.
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After pulling the Crank sensor, cleaning off the metal shavings and reinstalling it (just to test if it’ll work), the car still has the same issues but the misfiring codes went away and these codes remain.

4A7D7DB7-F959-4506-AFFA-3B74C66E469D.jpeg
 

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The factory clutch (assuming that’s what’s in the car now), is open on the sides, to where debris has an avenue of escape and can be easily picked up by the magnet.
 

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When replaced my clutch, I replaced the crank sensor and trigger wheel. There was no debris on the sensor, but I decided to replace it anyway, since it would ne difficult to get to with the head cooling mod in place.
 

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The factory clutch (assuming that’s what’s in the car now), is open on the sides, to where debris has an avenue of escape and can be easily picked up by the magnet.

1679103958624.jpeg
 

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After pulling the Crank sensor, cleaning off the metal shavings and reinstalling it (just to test if it’ll work), the car still has the same issues but the misfiring codes went away and these codes remain.

4A7D7DB7-F959-4506-AFFA-3B74C66E469D.jpeg

P0335 is a Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P061C I believe is related to the P0335
P1336 is also related.

Is the timing off now?

The U0284 is active shutter?
 
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P0335 is a Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P061C I believe is related to the P0335
P1336 is also related.

Is the timing off now?

The U0284 is active shutter?
Yeah I took out the active shutter grille. Temps actually went down.

I’m aware of what the codes are I just don’t have the knowledge of knowing if it’s just the sensor or the car is out of timing.

I also want to know what crank relearn is and if I should do it when the new sensor comes in?
 

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I had multiple cylinder misfires (P0300, 0303, 0304, and 0307), followed by a flickering CEL, when I first drove my car after the clutch install. I did a crank relearn using my nGauge and the misfires haven’t returned in the 375 miles that I’ve put on the car.

The metal is very concerning and is clearly the result of a failure of some
sort. As much as it might suck to remove the tranny to get to the clutch and crank trigger wheel, I recommend doing it. I wouldn’t trust driving it until you can locate and address the problem.
 
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The metal shavings can also be from the starter engaging and disengaging the flywheel over and over. Pull the starter out and look into the hole and make sure there aren't any broken pieces, damaged teeth on the flywheel etc. If the clutch failed, you would feel it in the way the pedal feels.
 
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The metal shavings can also be from the starter engaging and disengaging the flywheel over and over. Pull the starter out and look into the hole and make sure there aren't any broken pieces, damaged teeth on the flywheel etc. If the clutch failed, you would feel it in the way the pedal feels.
Clutch pedal feels smooth still. Shifting as well.
 

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Do you drive the car really hard? Bounce it off the REV limiter?
No, my regular shifting is around 3k rpm, but if I’m driving hard I shift around 6,500rpm, unless I’m sliding the car or doing a full send, then I shift it close to redline. I don’t full send often, but I do drive the car hard.
 

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Before ripping out the tranny, I would be tempted to put in a new crank sensor and see what happens. If it fixes it, great. If not, well, you have a new crank sensor to put in after you replace whatever you busted.

I don’t believe they’re very expensive so why not? It would be a quicker trial than pulling the tranny. At least you could rule it out. New sensor and then crank relearn if no codes pop up immediately.

Good luck!

I hate the diagnosing part…
 
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Before ripping out the tranny, I would be tempted to put in a new crank sensor and see what happens. If it fixes it, great. If not, well, you have a new crank sensor to put in after you replace whatever you busted.

I don’t believe they’re very expensive so why not? It would be a quicker trial than pulling the tranny. At least you could rule it out. New sensor and then crank relearn if no codes pop up immediately.

Good luck!

I hate the diagnosing part…
A new one is already on its way! I’m hoping it’ll fix it. I’m also curious if the wiring is okay because the code does say “circuit” in it.
 

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I hear you. That could just be part of the sensor code itself meaning the circuit itself is broken.

I’m hoping this works for you!!
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