If you were buying a stripped GT with one option what would it be?

[Pkvir]

if I couldn't afford options, I would save some money till I could.

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[Stymee]

PP1 Done…..

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Roush Stage 2.

https://www.beechmontford.com/750hp-mustang.html

 

[Ock]

I have a base 2018 and wish I had the 8” screen.
still only 4700 miles.

sorry but this car needs to be driven more if at possible. i thought my 12k was low... well 0k now (if u kno u kno)

 

[luc]

Just wondering what the crowd would do.

Easy, Base with pp1

 

[shogun32]

Pp1. It has too many useful things to ignore. The rest is easily lived without.

I bought a 300A+PP1 and would NOT do it again. MUCH better parts can be sourced and installed for a fraction of the PP1 price tag which is $6000+ now. The ONLY redeeming item the PP1 has that you can't otherwise get without spending a boatload is the loaded diff with 3.73 and Torsen.

AE cables get cut and the servo is just more stupid stuff to go wrong. Pass. Get a cat-back if you must but an H/X pipe more than does the business.

If you want cheap thrills in the guise of 'drive modes' AKA different throttle maps get the x01A. But you might as well get a tune to fix the factory mappings anyway. The touchscreen is way overrated. And you can buy a retrofit kit for HALF what Ford now charges ($2400)

The PP1 suspension is rubbish - just buy the FP track kit.
The PP1 brakes can be sourced in 3 different colors besides ugly-ass-mottled-gray for a fraction of the price Ford charges for the WindowSticker version of the kit.

Personally buy the stripper and then spend money where you want and the get GOOD components, not the vastly overpriced factory-installed options.

The ONLY 'single' option that makes any kind of sense anymore is the Ecoboost HPP+HP (ok, it's 2).

I just went thru OP's exercise and in the harsh light of value for money exactly NONE of the other options can be defended.

 

[sk47]

Hello; A spare tire and jack.

 

[pyrophilus]

If you're being serious and we're taking about individual options and not bundled liked a PP2, etc..... it would either be active exhaust or the sub. But Active exhaust more likely because it's easier to add a subwoofer than it would be to add the integrated AE. The Roush AE knob isn't for me.

I second AE. I LOVE my AE and the only other time I heard an exhaust sounds as nice (or loud) was aftermarket exhausts. I also love that when I start my car in the morning it is set to start quiet.

If I had to buy another mustang and I found one that had all lists checked except it was missing AE, I would hesitate to make the purchase.

 

[Andy13186]

pp1, unless you count the 10r80 as the option. If its not the 10r80 then I would get PP1. After that 400a package

 

[dafuture]

I did essentially this, chose the screen. Best thing I could do for my daily driving enjoyment.

 

[ice445]

I bought a 300A+PP1 and would NOT do it again. MUCH better parts can be sourced and installed for a fraction of the PP1 price tag which is $6000+ now. The ONLY redeeming item the PP1 has that you can't otherwise get without spending a boatload is the loaded diff with 3.73 and Torsen.

AE cables get cut and the servo is just more stupid stuff to go wrong. Pass. Get a cat-back if you must but an H/X pipe more than does the business.

If you want cheap thrills in the guise of 'drive modes' AKA different throttle maps get the x01A. But you might as well get a tune to fix the factory mappings anyway. The touchscreen is way overrated. And you can buy a retrofit kit for HALF what Ford now charges ($2400)

The PP1 suspension is rubbish - just buy the FP track kit.
The PP1 brakes can be sourced in 3 different colors besides ugly-ass-mottled-gray for a fraction of the price Ford charges for the WindowSticker version of the kit.

Personally buy the stripper and then spend money where you want and the get GOOD components, not the vastly overpriced factory-installed options.

The ONLY 'single' option that makes any kind of sense anymore is the Ecoboost HPP+HP (ok, it's 2).

I just went thru OP's exercise and in the harsh light of value for money exactly NONE of the other options can be defended.

Yeah, better parts than PP can be sourced for the same money, but some of the items are a pain labor wise, like the rear diff. You also get a better radiator, no stupid grille shutters, a bracing kit that makes a huge difference, and while the brakes can be done better, they're still excellent for a factory option. The only let down for me is the heavy wheels with staggered sizes, and the dampers. I'm with you that modding a 300a how you want it is cheaper and more rewarding (thats what I have done) but the lazy in me wishes I had some of it by default, lol.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

301A

 

[young at heart]

Folks I’m gonna tell you what: unless you track your GT I believe the PP1/PP2 packages are really not about much more than bragging rights and bench racing. Just witness all the guys that list it in their sigs like it were a separate model. But in reality, for street use it would be very difficult to go any faster than what you can already do in a stock GT without killing yourself and somebody else or going to jail. My stock GT can easily pretty much hang with my buddy’s GT3 RS at the Tail, and he’s a much better driver than I am.

I‘ve probably hit very early triple digits in mine a few times doing pulls and the car feels perfectly stable and safe. I don’t think a PP would do a thing for it during that brief moment. If I were going to spend that kind of money I’d be looking at forced induction. Accelerating a little harder is always thrilling when you can find a little clear road ahead.

Anyway it’s just my opinion and I can’t prove I’m right any more that anyone else can prove me wrong I suppose.

 

[shogun32]

can’t prove I’m right any more that anyone else can prove me wrong I suppose.

 

[Ock]

i like the clicky clicky starty thing... god i miss my car.

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