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Mustang still sits very high after being on lift 3 days ago

Brian@BMVK

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What you're seeing is an illusion. You actually lowered the ride height but affected the gap to the fender. You went from a 27.7" rear tire to a 26.8" rear tire, and one that is stretched quite a bit. You're seeing at least a 0.5" increase in wheel gap just from that at the back. At the front you went from 27.1" to 26.8", so a smaller change, but still there.
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What you're seeing is an illusion. You actually lowered the ride height but affected the gap to the fender. You went from a 27.7" rear tire to a 26.8" rear tire, and one that is stretched quite a bit. You're seeing at least a 0.5" increase in wheel gap just from that at the back. At the front you went from 27.1" to 26.8", so a smaller change, but still there.
My 285/30/r20 tires have a sidewall width of ~3.3 inches while the 275/40/r19 tires has a sidewall width of ~4.3 inches. Considering my new tires fit 20 inch wheels instead of 19, that should mean the wheels and tires are approximately the same diameter? Is my math wrong here?
 

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You'll have more wheel gap and poke since you changed wheels/tires, nothing wrong with the suspension

Capture.JPG
 
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You'll have more wheel gap and poke since you changed wheels/tires, nothing wrong with the suspension

Capture.JPG
Well crap. Does this mean I should get 285/35 tires now? It might explain the fender gap but not the wheel poke. I don't want to come off as arrogant but the ride height really looks OEM to me.

Here are two setups I found that are the same as mine:
Setup #1
Setup #2
 

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The new tires are .9" smaller in diameter so they are going to look smaller.
 

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.....It might explain the fender gap but not the wheel poke....
The wheel & tire combo you bought are wider, so they poke. What did you expect?
 
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The new tires are .9" smaller in diameter so they are going to look smaller.
Yeah I see that now. It just makes no sense why my wheels poke so much and have less camber compared to setups that are extremely similar.
 
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The wheel & tire combo you bought are wider, so they poke. What did you expect?
They shouldn't poke out like that with those offsets. There are multiple posts on the 'Aggressive Fitment Thread' of people running 11 inches or more and having no poke.
 

gixxersixxerman

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The wheel poke is from running a +30 wheel. Most rears are around the +45 area. So you are poking 15mm more then mine. The width of the wheel doesn’t measure poke as much as that offset does

26304A28-0146-4F3B-B0CB-BB96E96E91CB.jpeg
 

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The wheel poke is from running a +30 wheel. Most rears are around the +45 area. So you are poking 15mm more then mine. The width of the wheel doesn’t measure poke as much as that offset does

26304A28-0146-4F3B-B0CB-BB96E96E91CB.jpeg
How wide is your rear wheel?
 

gixxersixxerman

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You can also see in that picture of the car you want it to look like, he has quite a bit of camber to bring that wheel in
 
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You can also see in that picture of the car you want it to look like, he has quite a bit of camber to bring that wheel in
Yeah I asked the guy on my first post if he needed an alignment or camber plates and he said no. I don't see why he'd lie to me especially considering multiple people have done it. I'm just very confused at this point, probably gonna get rid of these if nothing works.
 

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How wide is your rear wheel?
20x11 +50.. had to go check, the 11” wide wheel is +50, 10.5” was +45 off my RTR wheel
 

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To get under the rear quarter, you need an offset of around +43 to 50 for a 10.5" wheel. My 19x11 +50 rears are just barely under and that's because I have -2.0 deg rear camber (for autocross/track use). Best to consult people for what works before just buying stuff...
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