Hi-PO Stang
Well-Known Member
I don't store my 2014 GT500 tires in a warm place in the Winter and the tires have no cracks, but I don't drive in temps below 50 degrees. It does get very cold in Minnesota.
Sponsored
MICHELIN® Ultra-High Performance Sport Summer Tire Cold Weather Precautions Michelin Ultra-High Performance (UHP) Sport Summer tires use tread compounds that are optimized for maximum dry and damp grip in temperate conditions. As the temperature of the compound nears freezing, the grip level of the tire begins to degrade. Michelin does not recommend using UHP Sport Summer tires when tire temperatures drop below 40°F (5°C) or on snow and ice. At tire temperatures below 20°F (-7°C) Michelin UHP Sport Summer tires may develop surface cracks in the upper sidewall and tread area if flexed. Do not use, roll, or drop MICHELIN UHP Sport Summer tires with temperatures below 20°F (-7°C). If the tires have been cooled to 20°F (-7°C) or less, let them warm up in a heated space to at least 40°F (5°C) before being installed or moving a vehicle on which they are installed. Do not apply heat or blow heated air directly on the tires. Always inspect tires before use. Never use a tire with freeze cracks, breaks, or damage to the sidewall or tread. If in any doubt please consult your local Michelin contact or call Michelin Consumer Care at 1-866-866-6605.
I completely agree with the above; Have to be really easy on the throttle, as well.better get a set of winter wheels and tires ready. Below 50 F, those Cup 2 need a warm up before they stick and act a little like riding on ice when cold. Below 40 and it is time to have winter tires on. Also, they should be stored in a warm area. They can crack in cold temps.
I tend not to wait for 40F. Once we start getting temps regularly dipping below 50 for a low i put my winter set on my PP2.
This is great info, thanks!It appears 2020 PP2 orders are now down. Regurlar PP orders ended a few weeks ago. Info comes from here: https://blueovalforums.com/forums/i...oduction-week-scheduling-information/&page=18
Thanks for this. I’ll be placing my Mach 1 order when the books open. Optimistically delivery will be around March, so the temps will still be low here in NY. I’ll see if I can find a Black Friday tire deal. Any recommendations on winter/daily tires to swap out the Cup 2s with?I completely agree with the above; Have to be really easy on the throttle, as well.
Will you be DDing the Mach1?Thanks for this. I’ll be placing my Mach 1 order when the books open. Optimistically delivery will be around March, so the temps will still be low here in NY. I’ll see if I can find a Black Friday tire deal. Any recommendations on winter/daily tires to swap out the Cup 2s with?
Thank you for the info. I knew going in that I would be DD the Mach 1, with occasional SCCA solo events on the weekends. For the foreseeable future, DD means 4 miles to the garage at the train station once a week. My plan was to put the Cup 2s on rims for track use, and put something more street friendly on the stock HP rims. I'm on Long Island, which tends to stay a little warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer than other places in NY. 20's would be the lowest temp, and I probably wouldn't be going in those days anyway. And snow is out as well (I have a TrailBoss, and it's too much fun in the snow, lol).Will you be DDing the Mach1?
Toronto is pretty much the same weather-wise where you are, and I DD my PP2.
You need a dedicated set of winter tires, if you didn't already intend on it
It'll be hard to get a set of tires to fit "safely" within recommended parameters, to fit on the stock Mach1 wheels (per the offset, width specs that I recall.) Best bet is a dedicated set of winter tire and rims.
Otherwise, if you are just looking to swap out the tires to drive the Mach1 home safely, and it won't be a DD, and you store the Cup2s, this is a different story.
If you can find the OEM size, Continental Extreme Contact DWS would be helpful, if there's still some snow on the ground.
Or, I believe Cooper Zeon RS3-G1.
Again, these are just to be able to get it home safely, and also drive in sub-zero temps.
Tires like the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s are still summer compounds (although not as aggressive as the Cup 2) and can crack in sub-zeros.
It's tricky with the March time-frame, due to the weather and finicky temps.
Otherwise, you can also do a Continental Extreme Contact Sport.
Gotcha, that adds a lot of context. (TrailBoss seems so badass btw lol)Thank you for the info. I knew going in that I would be DD the Mach 1, with occasional SCCA solo events on the weekends. For the foreseeable future, DD means 4 miles to the garage at the train station once a week. My plan was to put the Cup 2s on rims for track use, and put something more street friendly on the stock HP rims. I'm on Long Island, which tends to stay a little warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer than other places in NY. 20's would be the lowest temp, and I probably wouldn't be going in those days anyway. And snow is out as well (I have a TrailBoss, and it's too much fun in the snow, lol).
Yes, the TrailBoss is a lot of fun. It's a great balance for what we wanted (DD that can tow and go on the beach). I was thinking of Pilot Sport 4S, but they don't come in 315/30R19 for the rear tires. They do make 325/30R19, which is a 0.9% increase, but I'll need to check the fitment before ordering them.Gotcha, that adds a lot of context. (TrailBoss seems so badass btw lol)
If that's the case, I definitely think you're a solid candidate for the Pilot Sport 4S or the Conti Extreme Contact Sport - Both options are great in the rain, are still a great summer tire for summer itself for the street, that you can also drive in temps around the 50s, (while being careful on the loud pedal of course ) while still having a decently stiff sidewall.
The sidewall stiffness is overlooked a lot, because aside from sheer grip from the tire contact patch, for a car like the Mach1 w/ the HP, you really want something that isn't so compliant that you feel the car roll over it's sidewalls. (the stock Cup2s have an amazingly stiff sidewall, but again, trade-offs there, as a street tire, coupled with it's dedicated compound, etc.)
It appears Ford ha
Does ur car has no-lift-shift? my 2019 do not have itWhen you push the stick into the gate for a lower gear the car will rev... I think you're mistaking no lift shift for rev matching. Rev matching just blips the throttle to sync up the engine and transmission speed on a downshift. Only on a downshift. Real world scenario: I'm making a right turn. I clutch in and put the car in neutral as I brake, I clutch in and move the stick into second. As soon as the stick enters the gate, the engine will rev and create a smooth downshift that doesn't stress the transmission and drive train. Nothing is being pushed to the limit.
Not that I'm aware of, nor have I tried to do it. Everything I've ready says the 2019 does not have no lift shift. I have rev matching when I downshift.Does ur car has no-lift-shift? my 2019 do not have it
No lift shift is brutal on manual trannies; that's only for DCT trannies. And you have rev-match on both downshifts AND upshifts. Try it if you don't believe me. But you don't notice that because you don't let the engine drop below the next gear. In fact, the computer leaves the rpm exactly where the next shift will be for a couple of seconds, if you notice. But if you leave the clutch depressed long enough and the revs drop, or you put the tranny in N when rolling, then choose any gear, you'd see how the computer will match rpm to whichever higher (or any) gear you choose. It's an awesome system, and always perfect . Can't beat it.Everything I've ready says the 2019 does not have no lift shift. I have rev matching when I downshift.
There's a slight rev hang but I think it's for smooth shifts. Rev matching on an upshift is redundant because of the synchronizers. Rev matching on a downshift is to sync up the transmission and engine speed because there is no synchronizers, but you need to actually depress the clutch in neutral to do it properly.No lift shift is brutal on manual trannies; that's only for DCT trannies. And you have rev-match on both downshifts AND upshifts. Try it if you don't believe me. But you don't notice that because you don't let the engine drop below the next gear. In fact, the computer leaves the rpm exactly where the next shift will be for a couple of seconds, if you notice. But if you leave the clutch depressed long enough and the revs drop, or you put the tranny in N when rolling, then choose any gear, you'd see how the computer will match rpm to whichever higher (or any) gear you choose. It's an awesome system, and always perfect . Can't beat it.