Diagnosing 4 codes p0340 344 345 349

[wakey5.0]

Code Reference: P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" circuit/ P0344 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit intermittent/ P0345 same verbiage as P0340 and P0349 is same verbiage as P0344 (not sure what the difference is)

Alright detectives, I've resorted to writing this up to hopefully see if anyone else experienced this. I have done all the work to this car, and consider myself pretty knowledgeable with the coyote platform. I will preface with saying I've scoured forums and have seen many theories related to some of these codes on an individual basis. I'll explain the methods I've tried to remedy.

First, I'll explain the car and ' relevant' mods so you can have a general idea for what's up.

2017 Mustang GT: 5.2 RPG built engine, ON3 top mount twin turbo kit with COMP 6265 turbos, Mantic twin disc, stock mt-82, powermaster 240amp alternator (relevant to cam codes). The battery is relocated to the trunk with the main power on a 150 amp breaker, and the fuel pump (fore triple) on another 150 amp breaker. The ECU and harness is tucked in the passenger fenderwell.

Late last year, I had the 5.2 engine shipped in and installed it. I was getting these same codes (maybe one or two were different, can't really remember), and chased the codes down to find out the actual cam trigger wheel on the back of one of the driver side cams actually had a bent tooth. Must have happened during install somehow. RPG owner actually flew to florida to swap in a new cam for me, and boom, codes obviously gone. It sucked, but was great it was handled.

Fast forward, I'm getting the engine broken in and doing some logging for Lund. Right before we switch to the E85 base tune, my Mcleod clutch gave out.

Ordered a mantic twin disc.

This is now earlier in the year, early March, I swap in the Mantic twin disc. On the next startup, these 4 codes were present, along with a misfire code here and there (which is still happening, don't remember the exact code number).

Something to note, the car sat for about a month while waiting for the mantic. So, only changes were a month of sitting and a new clutch.

So, here I am back with these codes after doing a new clutch install. So today, i put the Mcleod back in and nope, codes still there.

Remedies Tried

1. I did the crank relearn multiple times, probably 10 times in hopes God would intervene. ( Also just did this after swapping the Mcleod back in, of course)

2. I read about a bad alternator. This twin turbo kit requires you to use an 11-14 style alternator so the power lug clears the manifold. The s197 alternator only outputs 150 amps where as my stock 2017 GT Premium alternator was 200. So, I bought a powermaster 240 amp, no fix.

3. Thinking I may have pinched the harness, I ran back over it and see nothing wrong. All is plugged in. In fact, I had ziptied the harness away from the trans to avoid this during the mantic clutch install.

4. I replaced all the spark plugs.

5. I had the injectors serviced and flow tested. One was pretty bad, but now are all good.

6. Installed a new crankshaft position sensor.

7. Swapped back in the Mcleod clutch to see if the current clutch/flywheel was out of balance.

8. Installed a new battery. The one I brought back to Autozone, they said it was actually bad.

Of course, the codes are still present. In essence, the car was running fine but had a clutch that was slipping around 13 psi of boost, so it sat for a month and had a Mantic twin disc put in, and now there's codes.

The last thing I'm trying is swapping in another engine wiring harness to rule this out tomorrow as I actually have an extra laying around from the first time this happened and it ended up being the actual physical cam wheel.

I also don't think it could be tune related, considering the car is exactly as it was prior. Lund also wants another fat chunk of change to even look at a log, which I think is a waste of time and money anyway as the tune hasn't changed...

Any ideas? Before I seriously light it on fire?

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[AceS550]

Sounds like a nightmare!

Most of the time that I’ve experienced DTC’s with “intermittent” in the definition it’s accompanied by an unstable electrical circuit. I like the idea of trying out a non-modified wiring harness. Wires can appear ok on the outside but have the internal strands pulled apart causing an open/intermittent circuit. This happens especially in areas where there are sharp bends or tension on the wires. If the circuits test good with a volt meter, then the problem must be mechanical, electrical interference, or an internal PCM fault.

Another thing you could try is to disconnect the alternator connector, clear the codes, run the engine (briefly) and recheck for the DTC’s. This would take the alternator out of the equation with minimal work involved. (You probably will get other DTC’s related to low voltages but you’re looking for the return or absence of the camshaft DTC’s)

While it rarely occurs, it’s possible that the trigger wheel has slipped on the camshaft to an incorrect position.

Also timing chain mechanical faults will disrupt when the PCM detects the camshaft position. If it comes down to it, thoroughly inspect the primary and secondary timing chains, guides, and tensioners.

It can be frustrating but keep testing and eliminating any possible causes until you find the fault. Good luck!

 

[Jackson1320]

Have you tried new camshaft position sensors. I had almost the same thing from a cam sensor

 

[wakey5.0]

Sounds like a nightmare!

Most of the time that I’ve experienced DTC’s with “intermittent” in the definition it’s accompanied by an unstable electrical circuit. I like the idea of trying out a non-modified wiring harness. Wires can appear ok on the outside but have the internal strands pulled apart causing an open/intermittent circuit. This happens especially in areas where there are sharp bends or tension on the wires. If the circuits test good with a volt meter, then the problem must be mechanical, electrical interference, or an internal PCM fault.

Another thing you could try is to disconnect the alternator connector, clear the codes, run the engine (briefly) and recheck for the DTC’s. This would take the alternator out of the equation with minimal work involved. (You probably will get other DTC’s related to low voltages but you’re looking for the return or absence of the camshaft DTC’s)

While it rarely occurs, it’s possible that the trigger wheel has slipped on the camshaft to an incorrect position.

Also timing chain mechanical faults will disrupt when the PCM detects the camshaft position. If it comes down to it, thoroughly inspect the primary and secondary timing chains, guides, and tensioners.

It can be frustrating but keep testing and eliminating any possible causes until you find the fault. Good luck!

Thanks for the response. I just did the engine harness swap and still, no luck. I am really having a hard time thinking it's electrical at this point. Perhaps there really is a mechanical issue like a jumped tooth or cam wheel.

 

[wakey5.0]

Have you tried new camshaft position sensors. I had almost the same thing from a cam sensor

I actually haven't swapped those out. I have such a hard time thinking one of them could go bad, but I guess this would be the last thing I'd be willing to try on my own. I's just so hot out in FL I can't take working on this POS out in the garage anymore lol

 

[Jackson1320]

I actually haven't swapped those out. I have such a hard time thinking one of them could go bad, but I guess this would be the last thing I'd be willing to try on my own. I's just so hot out in FL I can't take working on this POS out in the garage anymore lol

I had a problem almost exactly the same and it was just a cam sensor. I went through some of the same ideas as you. Like alternator, wiring harness, cam timing,Cam phasers, but in the end it was just a exhaust camshafts position sensor

 

[wakey5.0]

I had a problem almost exactly the same and it was just a cam sensor. I went through some of the same ideas as you. Like alternator, wiring harness, cam timing,Cam phasers, but in the end it was just a exhaust camshafts position sensor

Appreciate the response. I swear if it’s that simple I’ll hate myself.

Based on these codes, any indication which sensor it would be? I’m assuming both exhaust sensors are the same on both sides. Was hoping to get them ordered tonight.

 

[wakey5.0]

Thought I would let anyone else know having the same issue that I replaced all 4 cam sensors and the issue went away. Go figure the cheapest and easiest fix was the problem

 

[ORRadtech]

Really not sure why you didn't try that first. Over the last 15 years I've had to replace at least 3 on different cars. Now, anytime I get a code that refers to the cam sensor I replace it first and that's fixed it every time.
Perhaps your experience with the bent tooth made you think of more complicated solutions?

 

[wakey5.0]

Really not sure why you didn't try that first. Over the last 15 years I've had to replace at least 3 on different cars. Now, anytime I get a code that refers to the cam sensor I replace it first and that's fixed it every time.
Perhaps your experience with the bent tooth made you think of more complicated solutions?

I think there’s definitely the factor of nothing on my car has been simple. It’s always some big disastrous scenario. But mainly when I first looked into these codes, I didn’t see a single thing online about an actual sensor going bad. Lots of electrical stuff. In hindsight it was literally stupid to not just try this first.

 

[ORRadtech]

No worries. Hindsite makes lots of stuff look dumb. Looking back at some of the things I did earlier in life... well they seemed like fine ideas then but today I'm a little surprised some of that shit didn't kill me

 

[Boostedinwyo]

Any of you guys have your car just die while driving and throw these codes?

 

[wakey5.0]

Any of you guys have your car just die while driving and throw these codes?

Is the car like 100% dead where the dash won't even light up?

 

[Boostedinwyo]

So got a gt350 with a procharger on it, accelerate on the highway to about 70, somewhat quick though 2nd gear, skip 3rd and hit 4th and no throttle, engine died but everything still lit. Pull over read ngauge dtcs and it was all those codes you had, just cranks over and no fire. Still builds oil pressure cranking. Just have heard a couple of horror stories of guys snapping a chain on these voodoos. Hoping for a sensor or maybe harness issue

 

[wakey5.0]

So got a gt350 with a procharger on it, accelerate on the highway to about 70, somewhat quick though 2nd gear, skip 3rd and hit 4th and no throttle, engine died but everything still lit. Pull over read ngauge dtcs and it was all those codes you had, just cranks over and no fire. Still builds oil pressure cranking. Just have heard a couple of horror stories of guys snapping a chain on these voodoos. Hoping for a sensor or maybe harness issue

Yeah I'd be surprised if that was it. You could pop your valve covers and take a look at the chains. If that's all good it may be worth throwing 4 new sensors in.

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