Boostedinwyo
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That's what I was thinking, to at least eliminate that right away, Just seems odd it would throw all the codes for one sensor. Damn thing only has 8k on it.
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Code Reference: P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" circuit/ P0344 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit intermittent/ P0345 same verbiage as P0340 and P0349 is same verbiage as P0344 (not sure what the difference is)
Alright detectives, I've resorted to writing this up to hopefully see if anyone else experienced this. I have done all the work to this car, and consider myself pretty knowledgeable with the coyote platform. I will preface with saying I've scoured forums and have seen many theories related to some of these codes on an individual basis. I'll explain the methods I've tried to remedy.
First, I'll explain the car and ' relevant' mods so you can have a general idea for what's up.
2017 Mustang GT: 5.2 RPG built engine, ON3 top mount twin turbo kit with COMP 6265 turbos, Mantic twin disc, stock mt-82, powermaster 240amp alternator (relevant to cam codes). The battery is relocated to the trunk with the main power on a 150 amp breaker, and the fuel pump (fore triple) on another 150 amp breaker. The ECU and harness is tucked in the passenger fenderwell.
Late last year, I had the 5.2 engine shipped in and installed it. I was getting these same codes (maybe one or two were different, can't really remember), and chased the codes down to find out the actual cam trigger wheel on the back of one of the driver side cams actually had a bent tooth. Must have happened during install somehow. RPG owner actually flew to florida to swap in a new cam for me, and boom, codes obviously gone. It sucked, but was great it was handled.
Fast forward, I'm getting the engine broken in and doing some logging for Lund. Right before we switch to the E85 base tune, my Mcleod clutch gave out.
Ordered a mantic twin disc.
This is now earlier in the year, early March, I swap in the Mantic twin disc. On the next startup, these 4 codes were present, along with a misfire code here and there (which is still happening, don't remember the exact code number).
Something to note, the car sat for about a month while waiting for the mantic. So, only changes were a month of sitting and a new clutch.
So, here I am back with these codes after doing a new clutch install. So today, i put the Mcleod back in and nope, codes still there.
Remedies Tried
1. I did the crank relearn multiple times, probably 10 times in hopes God would intervene. ( Also just did this after swapping the Mcleod back in, of course)
2. I read about a bad alternator. This twin turbo kit requires you to use an 11-14 style alternator so the power lug clears the manifold. The s197 alternator only outputs 150 amps where as my stock 2017 GT Premium alternator was 200. So, I bought a powermaster 240 amp, no fix.
3. Thinking I may have pinched the harness, I ran back over it and see nothing wrong. All is plugged in. In fact, I had ziptied the harness away from the trans to avoid this during the mantic clutch install.
4. I replaced all the spark plugs.
5. I had the injectors serviced and flow tested. One was pretty bad, but now are all good.
6. Installed a new crankshaft position sensor.
7. Swapped back in the Mcleod clutch to see if the current clutch/flywheel was out of balance.
8. Installed a new battery. The one I brought back to Autozone, they said it was actually bad.
Of course, the codes are still present. In essence, the car was running fine but had a clutch that was slipping around 13 psi of boost, so it sat for a month and had a Mantic twin disc put in, and now there's codes.
The last thing I'm trying is swapping in another engine wiring harness to rule this out tomorrow as I actually have an extra laying around from the first time this happened and it ended up being the actual physical cam wheel.
I also don't think it could be tune related, considering the car is exactly as it was prior. Lund also wants another fat chunk of change to even look at a log, which I think is a waste of time and money anyway as the tune hasn't changed...
Any ideas? Before I seriously light it on fire?
It was sporadic I believe. Yeah throw the new ones in, it isn't too bad. Bit of a pain but let me know how it pans outThanks for writing this detailed post. I am struggling with the same issue P0340&P0344. I saw that you resolved it with new sensors. I just ordered them and hope it solves my problem as well.
My question for you is when did you get these codes? i.e. Immediately upon startup? After driving it hard? Randomly?
I only get these codes when driving it hard or on the track. Anytime I stop and reflash a tune, they go away for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Thanks for the quick response. Would you recommend running a crankshaft relearn once changed?It was sporadic I believe. Yeah throw the new ones in, it isn't too bad. Bit of a pain but let me know how it pans out
I tossed four new sensors in… and the issue is still there. I can flash a tune and the issue goes away. But anytime I go over 6k rpms the check engine light pops on and I get code P0340.It was sporadic I believe. Yeah throw the new ones in, it isn't too bad. Bit of a pain but let me know how it pans out
I also just tried replacing the sensors and mine kicks after doing a hard pull too. My mustang is N/A so I don’t think it has anything to do with your ESS kit.2020 GT 401A ESS Kit (3500 miles boosted) 26k Miles MT82
Hey guys, so I've been dealing with some electrical issues (I believe.) The car throws P0340 (consistently) P0344 (sometimes with the other one) and a cyl 4 misfire (consistently.) The weird thing is, I can notice when the car isn't happy because the knock stays at 0.0. However, all I have to do is power the car off and turn it back on (literally while rolling down the road I do this) and boom car is happy again, negative knock. Once I see the negative knock, if I do a 3rd gear WOT pretty high rpm, it throws the codes almost every single time. Also, my tuner is saying my VCT is staying at 0.0. I have swapped the camshaft position sensor intake bank A and B sensors, as well as the exauhst cam A and B sensors. The CEL does not switch banks so I believe I can rule out the sensor itself. I had the P0340 back in 2022, but Ford fixed it under warranty. I'm at a loss, and my buddies are recommending that it could be the cam phasers. Any ideas?
I have replaced so fucking much, threw my hands in the air and took it to a shop. $3600 later… drove the car home with the same code. I’ve got new phasers, new solenoids, new timing, new OPG/CS, new sensors, new pigtails… you name it. Still have the P0340 and occasional P0344 only at high RPM. But the car feels slow most of the timeI also just tried replacing the sensors and mine kicks after doing a hard pull too. My mustang is N/A so I don’t think it has anything to do with your ESS kit.
Damn sorry man. One other thing to check is the alternator. I know a bad one can cause this issue too. A pain to swap a new one in but if you did the sensors I would try that next. Sounds weird but it can cause it if the output isn’t within range. Who tuned your car? Did you reach out to them regarding this? Maybe they can see something on a log fileI also just tried replacing the sensors and mine kicks after doing a hard pull too. My mustang is N/A so I don’t think it has anything to do with your ESS kit.
I’ll have to reach out to the previous owner about the tune. I’ve done two track days on the car since I purchased it and the second track day is when it happened.Damn sorry man. One other thing to check is the alternator. I know a bad one can cause this issue too. A pain to swap a new one in but if you did the sensors I would try that next. Sounds weird but it can cause it if the output isn’t within range. Who tuned your car? Did you reach out to them regarding this? Maybe they can see something on a log file