Motor strength

[RandyNJ]

Originally I've been looking to buy a new 19 or 20 gt 401A with plans to be rough on the car as that's how I enjoy to drive. I've been afraid to buy used since I'm concerned the first time the car sees high rpms bad things will happen since it will already have mileage. Anyone have bad experiences buying used?

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[ice445]

They're pretty stout motors, especially if you stay away from the sauce (boost). But even boosted you can reliably put down 700 wheel horsepower without too much worry about your bank account. With that said, if you plan on beating the shit out of the car, used makes the most sense. Some of these cars can consume oil but it seems to be a result of incorrect break-in by babying it too much. Just don't bounce off the rev limiter all the time (doesn't mean you can't shift at 7400), and youll be just fine. Just do the normal used car inspections. Cars with a lot of cosmetic issues (paint scratches, interior scratching/damage) is usually a sign of an abusive owner. So find the cleanest you can with the options you like and send it.

Also, most of the 18's have a tick at idle, there's plenty of threads on it but it doesn't mean anything.

 

[RandyNJ]

They're pretty stout motors, especially if you stay away from the sauce (boost). But even boosted you can reliably put down 700 wheel horsepower without too much worry about your bank account. With that said, if you plan on beating the shit out of the car, used makes the most sense. Some of these cars can consume oil but it seems to be a result of incorrect break-in by babying it too much. Just don't bounce off the rev limiter all the time (doesn't mean you can't shift at 7400), and youll be just fine. Just do the normal used car inspections. Cars with a lot of cosmetic issues (paint scratches, interior scratching/damage) is usually a sign of an abusive owner. So find the cleanest you can with the options you like and send it.

Also, most of the 18's have a tick at idle, there's plenty of threads on it but it doesn't mean anything.

I think I'm going to go used instead of new after looking at my options. I've read about the tick and it seems there hasn't been any cases of engine failure relating to this. If you claim even boosted the motor is strong then i don't think i need to worry. There's no bolt on/upgrade plans in my foreseeable future.

 

[ice445]

I think I'm going to go used instead of new after looking at my options. I've read about the tick and it seems there hasn't been any cases of engine failure relating to this. If you claim even boosted the motor is strong then i don't think i need to worry. There's no bolt on/upgrade plans in my foreseeable future.

Whatever you do, just let the oil get up to temp before you start beating on it. And switching to 5W30 may be a good idea if you're gonna be banging them gears.

 

[Zinc03svt]

I personally would not buy one of these used. The motors are stout enough to make 1000 whp on E85 and proper tuning. The problem I have is how was it run and maintained? Fuel used? Was the temps (oil, engine cht, trans) always brought up to operating levels before WOT shenigans is the biggest one...??? Have seen a lot of people jump in their cars after work (cold motor) and lay hell to it. No thanks...

 

[Jmtoast]

I think I'm going to go used instead of new after looking at my options. I've read about the tick and it seems there hasn't been any cases of engine failure relating to this. If you claim even boosted the motor is strong then i don't think i need to worry. There's no bolt on/upgrade plans in my foreseeable future.

I had my tech look at the tick. Most of the time it's DI tick. Corvette owners complain about also. I almost bought a 15' richard petty edition for 15k under msrp and I always buy used except for the mustang. When I buy used I always put money aside for repairs. Almost always they need something right of the bat. Sometimes you get lucky but put some money aside and you'll be fine. No is the time to find crazy good deals. Be patient and find a gem.

 

[Bikeman315]

No problem buying used if like Zinc said you know the history of the car. If the motor was properly broken in, properly maintained, and properly used (warmup, etc.) then you should be good to go. Of course if you buy new all of this is in your hands.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

The Coyote engines were put through some serious abuse during the development. They not only had to pass without failure, but they had to pass with flying colors. Without noticeable wear, etc. One example of a test the development engineers performed are they would get the engine hot with high rpm operation, shut it off, and immediately send ice cold coolant through the engine jacket, then immediately restart the engine and ramp to high rpms essentially right away, without allowing it to slowly heat up to temperature. They would do this test for days on end IIRC. I can't find the link to the article, but I'll post it if I can find it later.

 

[wade001]

i contemplated buying used, but ended up buying a new, previous model year, with a discount.

op says ...'buying the car to have fun and drive it hard'... think about how many others go into buying a mustang GT to 'have fun and drive it hard'.. i'd wager a bet to say more than not. now just remember that when you're thinking about how the previous owner treated the car before you bought it.

if you can find one that is CPO, that might be worth it, because you can get a pretty decent warranty out of that. but overall, there were just too many unknowns for me to shell out that kind of money for a used sports car that was going to be my DD

 

[UserName]

Whatever you do, just let the oil get up to temp before you start beating on it. And switching to 5W30 may be a good idea if you're gonna be banging them gears.

Letting the engine and oil come up to full temp before laying into it is a good thing. This is the exact advice I got from @stingerbtry before I started modding. I’ll never forget being at Home Depot getting out of my car a couple years ago when he pulled up. I was in awe as his car was pretty decked out and sounded like a freaking spacecraft. Lol. I’ve never got on it until fully up to temp since then, and especially since the supercharger went on. 20,000 miles under boost and the only things replaced are tires for some reason.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Here's the article I was referring to: http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/m5lp-1003-2011-ford-mustang-gt-50-coyote-engine/
Pretty awesome.

"We observed some of this internal combustion water-boarding, and for anyone with a foot-pound of mechanical sympathy it isn't pretty. Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.

We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.

Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test," says Mike. "It can't be that it hasn't seized yet, we need to see crosshatching on the cylinders, no full-face ring wear, leak down needs to be below, oh, eight percent; it has to be very, very functional and could go do it again, quite frankly."

 

[cmxPPL219]

Here's the article I was referring to: http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/m5lp-1003-2011-ford-mustang-gt-50-coyote-engine/
Pretty awesome.

"We observed some of this internal combustion water-boarding, and for anyone with a foot-pound of mechanical sympathy it isn't pretty. Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.

We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.

Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test," says Mike. "It can't be that it hasn't seized yet, we need to see crosshatching on the cylinders, no full-face ring wear, leak down needs to be below, oh, eight percent; it has to be very, very functional and could go do it again, quite frankly."

It's interesting, these tests they do. It explains why the Gen2 coyote is one of the most reliable V8 engines. (This article is dated 2010)
Then came the Gen3, and by non-scientific accounts, seemed to be a little "less" relaible (cue in all the issues we've all heard about)
But you'd think that the durability testing program wouldn't have deviated with the development of the Gen3.

Awesome article, thanks for the find!

 

[Schwerin]

People have done 1200WHP on stock engine for multiple passes and not broken anything. Now not EVERY engine will do that, but these are very strong motors.

 

[nastang87xx]

We want to talk about stress? The F150 Coyote was made to run at a constant 3000 - 5500RPM at all times.

And you're worried about redlining it once? You'll be fine.....

 

[99Zeus99]

I like all the guys that cry about every little noise in their "sports car". "It's not as quiet as my Prius, I think I hear a little squeak when I first start it", etc. Jesus Fing Christmas, when did gearheads become such a bunch of pussies? I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles in all kinds of vehicles and conditions. Almost none were without a sound here and there. I grew up driving piles of junk and they always got me to my destination getting beat on etc. Keep oil in it, keep water in it, keep clean fuel in it. Keep a good battery. Every car I did this for got me no less than 150k miles. The S550 is no different. If you want a Tesla, get one and then be driven crazy by every little squeak and creak you never heard before because of engine noise.
When I started driving, cars sounded like they were gonna come apart at 65 mph which was 10 mph over any max speed limit in the country. Air whistling through the door, window seal or floorboards. Exhaust leaks puttering, rubber bushings squeaking, gravel banging into the wheel well every now and then, dash panels shaking apart, change rattling in a metal ash tray. Don't overpay for the car, drive the shit outta it and maintain it. Don't worry about all this bullshit with ticks and what not. Like dating a super hot, big breasted blonde and complaining she smacks when she chews or makes hums to herself sometimes.

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