HeelToeHero
Well-Known Member
Wow that procal is a big upgrade from the 2015-17 power packs!
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If you look at the instructions, it starts with removing the sound tube. That thing is absolute bitch to get out and I am guessing takes an hours on its own unless you've already did it. I've spent about two hours Friday to get thing freaking thing out. Maybe shops are more skilled at it or can monkey a combination of extensions, swivels and socket together to unbolt it from the firewall, I wasn't able to. Rest of it is quick - I agree.I was quoted roughly 5 hours labor from my dealer to install this. Does that sound right?
You're saying catch can has to come out ?Edit: I figured out why the Ford Performance Oil Separator bracket was removed. It all won't fit in that tight spot. Neither will my JLT 3.0. I'll play around with that more this weekend.
The right tube connection on the JLT wants to sit where the throttle body electrical connector is now located. I could cram it in there, but I’m afraid it’ll put too much pressure on that connector.You're saying catch can has to come out ?
The FP instructions vs many other sound tube delete instructions actually suggests to access the firewall part easier via wheel well liner removal vs trying to do it from above.If you look at the instructions, it starts with removing the sound tube. That thing is absolute bitch to get out and I am guessing takes an hours on its own unless you've already did it. I've spent about two hours Friday to get thing freaking thing out. Maybe shops are more skilled at it or can monkey a combination of extensions, swivels and socket together to unbolt it from the firewall, I wasn't able to. Rest of it is quick - I agree.
My plan is to either do it myself or go to the shop and specifically quote intake / throttle body install, not the whole package that they can inflate rate for. Others have the sound tube - I would get it out themselves, will save you some time / money spent at the shop.
I know - I actually have tried that. The easiest way for me to do that was from under the car. I didn't want to just pull it - too many things around and in the way and it's not like there's too many things to do these days ;-)The FP instructions vs many other sound tube delete instructions actually suggests to access the firewall part easier via wheel well liner removal vs trying to do it from above.
Thanks - that stinks - I have JLT and just poured oil out of it - it was half full so clearly works.The right tube connection on the JLT wants to sit where the throttle body electrical connector is now located. I could cram it in there, but I’m afraid it’ll put too much pressure on that connector.
The FPP catch can will fit without the mounting bracket. However, the lip of it rests on that TB connector. It actually feels and looks secure there, but I worry about the potential adverse effects of that contact over time.
So, both are on eBay. Correction...The JLT is already sold.
If this adds to the price of install I wonder if a plug can just be used and not take the tube out and save some money that way.The FP instructions vs many other sound tube delete instructions actually suggests to access the firewall part easier via wheel well liner removal vs trying to do it from above.
I think it can - there is no outlet in the intake for sound tube but other than that I do not think it will be in the way...If this adds to the price of install I wonder if a plug can just be used and not take the tube out and save some money that way.
Not the guy with it installed but the answer is yes and no. "Throttle response" is a bit of a misnomer here. The time it takes for the car to react to pedal input from the driver isn't going to change. At least, I'm 99% sure it wouldn't (why have a built in delay from the factory? I miss cable driven throttle bodies). It will, however, feel like there's more oomph with less pedal input. This is because the bigger throttle body is letting in more air at any given point than the stock one is. So (not exact numbers) at 15% throttle input, the 87mm TB will be letting in the same amount of air as the 80mm TB lets in at 25% input. All of this not counting the increase in low end torque the tune provides.OP, how is the throttle response now? Im hoping better with the new TB.
I couldn’t have said it better!Not the guy with it installed but the answer is yes and no. "Throttle response" is a bit of a misnomer here. The time it takes for the car to react to pedal input from the driver isn't going to change. At least, I'm 99% sure it wouldn't (why have a built in delay from the factory? I miss cable driven throttle bodies). It will, however, feel like there's more oomph with less pedal input. This is because the bigger throttle body is letting in more air at any given point than the stock one is. So (not exact numbers) at 15% throttle input, the 87mm TB will be letting in the same amount of air as the 80mm TB lets in at 25% input. All of this not counting the increase in low end torque the tune provides.
One more question - did you find a catch can that would work ? Would the remote mounted JLT work (3030P) ?The right tube connection on the JLT wants to sit where the throttle body electrical connector is now located. I could cram it in there, but I’m afraid it’ll put too much pressure on that connector.
The FPP catch can will fit without the mounting bracket. However, the lip of it rests on that TB connector. It actually feels and looks secure there, but I worry about the potential adverse effects of that contact over time.
So, both are on eBay. Correction...The JLT is already sold.