Vorshlag Brake Cooling Ducts

[Ewheels]

For those still watching this thread, Vorshlag got back to me and confirmed that the tires will indeed wear a hole through the ducting even with stock PP tires. I suppose this is fine, I can always replace the hose, but I (and I'm sure many others) am looking for a more permanent solution. I will be using a 2 inch or maybe 2.5 inch diameter hose instead to better fit between the tire and the frame rail. I will either need to alter the supplied inlets and backing plates or I'll just 3D print an adapter to fit over them.

Stay tuned...

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[sldghmr]

Definitely still watching this... I'm getting ready to order another pair of hoses seems like there should be a better way of doing this on this car....

 

[JohnD]

I have the FTBR 3" kit, with 295s on 10" wheels (these are a very wide 295 closer to most 305s) I would get rub on the hose at anything close to full lock. I just upgraded to a 305 on 11" rim, expected rub but with a 20mm spacer I get zero contact, even at full lock. Maybe try a spacer and see if it helps. It is difficult routing these hoses though for sure, on the passenger side I had to take the washer bottle out.

 

[Ewheels]

I have the FTBR 3" kit, with 295s on 10" wheels (these are a very wide 295 closer to most 305s) I would get rub on the hose at anything close to full lock. I just upgraded to a 305 on 11" rim, expected rub but with a 20mm spacer I get zero contact, even at full lock. Maybe try a spacer and see if it helps. It is difficult routing these hoses though for sure, on the passenger side I had to take the washer bottle out.

Someone else here said they had to alter the washer fluid bottle as well.
I'll draw up some diameter reducing piece on Solidworks this weekend and print it out at work. If that works, I'll share the Solidworks file here. Or come up with a similar solution with Home Depot parts lol.

 

[Ewheels]

Ok I think I have a solution, and a much cheaper one at that.
Don't buy the Vorshlag kit at all (lol) unless you want to replace ducting every so often. I think I will be returning my kit or if anyone wants to buy it off me.

New plan: I will be 3D printing the inlets at my work. I have attached the schematic. I'll print one out and see if it fits how I think it will fit. If not, I'll make the necessary changes and try again. For those who do not have access to a 3D printer, you can buy ducting inlets on Amazon or at any hardware store. $7
For the ducting, I will be getting Mishimoto 3" silicone ducts. 12 feet of this is $90 on Summit Racing
For the rotor backing plates, I think I'll go with Full Tilt Boogie's backing plates. $159

If these 3" ducts still rub, then I'll simply go down to 2.5" or 2" ducts. (I'm on stock PP wheels currently, if that helps)

 

[ddozier]

I have had very good luck with the FTB backing plates and a 3" high temp hose, the FTB backing plates bring the hose out above the suspension control arms and them I route it down between the two arms and attach it to the sway bar with ties. I run 305/680/18 slicks on EC7 wheels and get about 2 years out of the hoses before they need to be replaced. I made a 3" joining piece just below the forward lower suspension mount so the hose can be replaced in sections in stead of replacing the entire hose to the front fascia.

This setup works well and I have used it on 5 cars with the same results.

Dave

 

[Ewheels]

I finally have all the parts I need for this install and will be doing so this weekend. I will try to have the write up posted by Sunday.

 

[nameuser]

I went to the full tilt boogie website and there doesn't appear to be a magnaride option. Anyone have and thoughts on magnaride brake cooling?

 

[Ewheels]

I went to the full tilt boogie website and there doesn't appear to be a magnaride option. Anyone have and thoughts on magnaride brake cooling?

Is the backing plate mounting different for magnaride? I'm unfamiliar with the geometries on magnaride cars. My initial thought would be that brake ducts should fit exactly the same.

 

[nameuser]

All options noted: for non-magnaride suspensions. I'll contact their customer service in hopes there IS an option for me.

 

[mikeD4V]

Routed my 3" hoses the way @ddozier recommended and they survived 2 days on a twisty track last weekend without issue. I'll have pics this weekend when the wheels come off.

 

[lil'Zeus]

I have a pp1 magnaride car and no one has made anything production quality yet, just some one off custom stuff. I did speak with a manufacturer today about this very plate design who has done a one off before and he said he may get to work on this and order a set of magnaride spindles. Due to the magnaride spindle design and its strength and larger wheel bearing it will probably be the spindle that everyone will move to in the future for road course work. I'm hoping he has something soon, but it may be a few months.

I have a engineer working on a set of 3d inlets for me but it is taking a long time unfortunately.

 

[nameuser]

I’d be very interested in how it turns out.

 

[Ewheels]

Alright everyone, I finally have the kit installed. I'd like to apologize in advance for the poor picture quality. Photography is not a skill I was born with haha.

I used a hybrid of kits online so it's a bit of a Frankenstein build but the parts are as follows:
Vorshlag 4" inlets
Mishimoto 4" and 3" high temp ducting
Aluminum 4" to 3" HVAC couplers (from Home Depot) (original rubber couplers didn't work too well)
Full Tilt Boogie backing plate

I had originally purchased the complete Vorshlag kit but the 4" ducting will NOT fit without major rubbing issues. Vorshlag routes the 4" ducting in front of the control arms as it will not fit between the control arm links as most other kits do. At full wheel lock, the 4" duct gets smashed and quickly rips holes. I contacted Vorshlag about this and they said they even replace their ducts every racing season. I didn't want to be doing this so I looked for an alternative.

Full Tilt Boogie makes a 3" kit for 2015-2017 models. Their inlets won't fit the 2018-2019 models but the backing plates are identical. So I used the 4" inlets from Vorshlag and the backing plates from FTB and simply used a 4" to 3" coupler in the middle to make the two kits work with each other.

Below are the install steps.

Step 1: Remove Front Bumper.
There are many guides for this so I don't find it necessary to explain this step. Just a few bolts and clips and it comes right off.

Step 2: Remove Calipers and Rotors
Again, very easy procedure. Two bolts to remove for each caliper and then you can slide those off and then take the rotors off.

Step 3: Backing Plates
You will need to remove the backing plates that are already on the car. Two bolts and those come off. You will also need to remove the air deflector plate that's attached to the control arm. The FTB backing plates will hit this at full lock otherwise. They are not needed anymore anyway with cooling ducts.
Now you can install the FTB backing plates.

Step 4: Bumper Inlets
With the bumper off, line up the inlets on the back of the lower grille and mark the holes to be drilled as well as an outline for the inlet opening to drill out. The Vorshlag inlets fit up against the edges of the lower grille perfectly so there is no measuring required.
Drill out the bolt holes and the duct inlets and you're good to go. I used a Dremel bit for the inlets; probably not the most ideal method but it worked.

Step 5: Cut Hoses to length
MEASURE MANY TIMES AND CUT ONCE. This step is simple yes, but you can very easily waste a lot of the hose. I measured out to what I thought would be enough length and then fit the bumper up and it wasn't long enough. Take your time, fit the bumper up as many times as you need, and make one cut. Or give yourself extra length and then shorten it on the car.
Caution, the hoses are fiberglass and it gets everywhere. This is a very itchy step.

In this picture, I still had the rubber couplers on but due to their flexible nature, I could not get the hose clamps tight enough. I then switched to aluminum couplers from Home Depot.

Step 6: Final Assembly
Lastly, fit the 3" hoses to the backing plates, reinstall the bumper, and attach the hoses to the couplers and you're done. Use some zip ties to keep everything in place. Make sure you have enough slack in the hoses to go full wheel lock in both directions before tightening down the zip ties.

Most people who have done this kit route the duct in front of the tie rod but when I tried this, I found that the hose would rub on the inside of the wheel a bit. I then tried to route the duct behind the tie rod and this way there was no rubbing.

And just like that, you now have brake ducts! Hope this helps anyone with an 18-19 looking to install brake ducts on their car.

 

[Schwerin]

I feel like it should have a honeycomb piece to go over the hole just to hide it some, or keep out small animals/items. Otherwise looks great.

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