Wet sanding 2 years later?

[lsiunsuex]

'Been following https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wrecked-2016-mustang-gt-rebuild.106867/

(trying not to thread jack that thread, so wanted to start a new post)

I can't watch the video now, but in one of the more recent videos he posted; he says he wet sands the clear coat with 2000 grit paper, then a few buffing sessions.

1 - I thought you went sand the color coat, not the clear coat? (or did I just hear him wrong?)
2 - Mine is a 2016 and I bought it used in 2017 - so for sure, it saw it's share of automatic car washes and such before I took ownership. I've tried and tried but can never get the swirl marks completely out of the hood and it drives me bat shit crazy. If I took my time, wet sanded it properly (maybe 3000 grit?) then did a proper buffing job - am I gonna hurt anything even more so long after it's been painted?

The hood and top of rear fenders are the worst - little orange peel on the rear bumper. It's a convertible, so, no roof to contend with.

It's that or wrap it - which I may do anyway (I want to black it all out) but if I can fix / preserve the original paint, maybe I won't.

It's Race Red if that matters.

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[Nagare]

Wet sanding could go through the clear, but that isn't likely unless you keep going for a while. You can't touch the color coat until you're all the way through the clear.

Time shouldn't have an effect on what you're able to do, just color matching in the future which shouldn't be too hard because Race Red has no metallic flake to it.

Depending on how much you love red and how much time you want to devote to it, I'd just wrap it another color and enjoy that for a few years.

 

[Brian V]

Try using Meguire's Medium cut polish and then fine cut and then mirror glaze ..

No sanding involved . You do have a buffer right ?

 

[lsiunsuex]

Try using Meguire's Medium cut polish and then fine cut and then mirror glaze ..

No sanding involved . You do have a buffer right ?

I do - Torq variable speed. My most recent attempt was with 3M Polish (black bottle, forget the name specifically) and a variety of Chemical Guys optical polishes / they're pads. They're not deep, they're just every where. At night - no problem. Direct sunlight - wtf... Just driving me crazy.

 

[Nagare]

Probably just need a stronger cutting compound then to go through the other steps to clean it up. If they're not deep, it shouldn't be too bad.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Try using Meguire's Medium cut polish and then fine cut and then mirror glaze ..

No sanding involved . You do have a buffer right ?

I can attest that the above products and methods will work to reduce the swirls.

Get yourself this Porter Cable buffing tool:
https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html

And the following pad kit:
https://www.autogeek.net/bf200.html

I use an older version of the above Porter Cable (non-XP), have had it for close to 10yrs now - using the exact pad kit (and have tried other kits with more various pads). I can tell you, honestly, using the above products will produce excellent results IF you take your time doing it AND use the PC for not only applying the products BUT also to remove the products in the final step.

Now others can refute the products, methods, etc - but for ME, it comes down to “brands” vs “cost” and the end results.

You really don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars on Brand-X cutting products or waxes - sure there’s THOUSANDS of brands with thousands of reviews, but the Meguiars products will work and work very well. I’m also NOT promoting Meguiars, merely stating the facts that their off the shelf products do as advertised when applied as instructed.

Hand cutting, waxing, applying or removing products is good - BUT the tool will ALWAYS do a much better job and eliminates the possibility of swirls, because when doing it by hand, the person is never assured they are using even pressure throughout the process, not to mention smearing occurs.

I use Meguiars products to cut, remove swirls or scratches and use Zaino products for my final “pop-shine”.

If you follow the pad recommendations (color = to cutting power), you can’t go wrong at all.

Always apply and remove any products on non-humid days and if possible, inside a garage to avoid airborne contaminants that can interfere with a good detail.

Also to mention, don’t be afraid of using a PC, the PC will not burn the clear and it won’t leave additional swirls. The object with the PC and any similar buffing tool is, the user does NOT and should NOT put pressure on the tool against the body sheet metal. You want the tool to do the work via set RPMs and chosen applicator pads. Sure, you can put some weight on the PC for very bad spots, BUT you don’t need to muscle it if that makes sense.

I do panel by panel. Apply using PC, then use a micro fiber and remove first product by hand. On my final application, I apply with PC AND also remove with PC using a wool bonnet. Once the final product is removed using the wool bonnet, I then put a micro fiber bonnet on the PC and go over entire car, everywhere.

This is my 94 Cobra... if I didn’t tell ya - yes that is original Ford paint and the Cobra was always a daily driver through all East Coast weather conditions, never garaged when in it was a daily driver AND it has over 144k mikes on it - you wouldn’t believe it from these pics (or in person). This car I’ve always used the same tools, products and methods noted above when detailing....

Again in no way are my methods deemed best or close to a Pro, nor are the products or tools I use the only type to use - but for ME, I know what works for my vehicles.

 

[sw686blue]

Great write-up! Thank you for sharing!

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