2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[arfabe16]

I do not believe the 2017's have that extra vacuum line that the 2015 and 2016's do that would cause the hose to rub against the engine cover.

So you will likely not have to do anything but install the kit unlike me who also purchased the 45 degree fitting as my 2016 does have the vacuum line right by the sound tube. Someone correct me if I'm wrong?

I have a 2017 and one of the hoses definitely contacts the manifold cover. It's light contact, but it's enough for me to be concerned. I've removed the manifold cover until I can figure out how to fix this...

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[Eljay52]

I do not believe the 2017's have that extra vacuum line that the 2015 and 2016's do that would cause the hose to rub against the engine cover.

So you will likely not have to do anything but install the kit unlike me who also purchased the 45 degree fitting as my 2016 does have the vacuum line right by the sound tube. Someone correct me if I'm wrong?

BTW, I just ordered my Power Pack 2 from Summit (local to me, so it will get here in about a day). So we'll see if it's as good as everyone says it is. Thankfully I'll be starting off with the revised calibration which was released mid 2017? The first pass of the Ecoboost calibration also had a few bugs as well, torque dropped off suddenly at 5,300 RPM then came back at 5,600 and there was a small amount of rev hang even with the 2.3L TDI. It was a bit twitchy as well, once the revised tune came out it was 100% better than stock with no abnormal behavior.

If it's as good as their revised Ecoboost calibration, then it will really wake up the 2nd gen 5.0 and address the factory shortcomings. In a lighter weight car, I suppose these issues I have with the stock 5.0 tuning wouldn't really big as big of an issue. But in a 3,700 lb car, the engine tuning better be spot on or that weight will really rear it's ugly head in how it affects the cars response.

My biggest gripe about the stock 2nd generation 5.0 is the linear power band (meaning it's somewhat flat but not completely horrible mid-range) and completely dead bottom end / low RPM bog if you don't get a launch just right. I really liked the torqy pull down low of the 2.3L ecoboost, but power peaked early (even with the Ford Power Pack and ATM inter cooler) and the top end was still DEAD. The stock 2nd gen 5.0 pulls nicely up top and I could live with the flat mid range, but I really don't like how "boggy" and dead it is down low. It seems like the ECU is way overly sensitive to limiting torque down low and makes the car more finicky to get going that it needs to be and it's surprisingly easy to bog for a modern performance V8.

It's almost like the Ecoboost which had a VERY fine line between bog and smoking the tires which is typical of turbo engines and to be expected in those cases. In a 2wd car that makes it hard to launch, maybe it was AWD like the RS it wouldn't be as big of an issue as you can launch much higher up in the power band to prevent bog.

My overall summary of the stock 5.0 is that the power band just needs to be broader than it is to make the car easier and more fun to drive. That means more mid range punch and more bottom end which are very endearing characteristics of the Dodge 6.4 and Chevy LT1 6.2. I'll write up my review of the Power Pack 2 after a few weeks of driving (especially to ensure the ECU has fully completed octane learn).

After reading your post I think you're really going to enjoy PP2. The boost in midrange torque is very noticeable. I am looking forward to your impressions.

 

[TheLion]

I have a 2017 and one of the hoses definitely contacts the manifold cover. It's light contact, but it's enough for me to be concerned. I've removed the manifold cover until I can figure out how to fix this...

Then that's what the 45 degree fitting is for that's posted several times a few pages back. Use that 45 degree fitting in conjunction with some 3/8" vacuum / fuel line.

That will allow you to keep the manifold cover on without having to cut a notch in it to avoid rubbing against the intake vacuum line. Maybe there's something else 2017's don't have that the 2015/2016's did or perhaps it's certain build dates, I honestly don't recall, but hopefully what I have described clears up the confusion.

Here is the thread I'm referring to, I think we are talking about the same clearance issue and this is the $15 "bolt on" solution: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1861692&postcount=50

 

[2morrow]

Then that's what the 45 degree fitting is for that's posted several times a few pages back. Use that 45 degree fitting in conjunction with some 3/8" vacuum / fuel line.

That will allow you to keep the manifold cover on without having to cut a notch in it to avoid rubbing against the intake vacuum line. Maybe there's something else 2017's don't have that the 2015/2016's did or perhaps it's certain build dates, I honestly don't recall, but hopefully what I have described clears up the confusion.

^^^This

 

[arfabe16]

Then that's what the 45 degree fitting is for that's posted several times a few pages back. Use that 45 degree fitting in conjunction with some 3/8" vacuum / fuel line.

That will allow you to keep the manifold cover on without having to cut a notch in it to avoid rubbing against the intake vacuum line. Maybe there's something else 2017's don't have that the 2015/2016's did or perhaps it's certain build dates, I honestly don't recall, but hopefully what I have described clears up the confusion.

Here is the thread I'm referring to, I think we are talking about the same clearance issue and this is the $15 "bolt on" solution: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1861692&postcount=50

Thanks. Did you get new 3/8" vacuum/fuel line, or just cut up what was already there?

 

[TheLion]

Thanks. Did you get new 3/8" vacuum/fuel line, or just cut up what was already there?

I just bought some extra like what was shown in the pictures. Usually you buy it by the foot. I'd rather cut up extra than try to "cut out" vacuum line that is already used and routed on the intake manifold.

You do need to splice the stock line at one point (instructions tell you where or you can look at the photos in the link from another forum member I provided in the above post) and use the T-fitting provided in the Power Pack 2. It just helps to have extra tubing on hand so you can splice exactly where you want instead of trying to make it all work by removing piece A and putting it back to use in location B...

Mostly this connector mod is to clean up the looks of the engine bay by providing extra clearance so you don't have to notch the cover to keep things from rubbing against it. Part of keeping costs down and CARB certifications is re-using parts from higher tier cars. While most of it bolts right on (mechanically), sometimes there are minor differences that cause some fitment issues here and there. In this case the engine cover on the stock 2nd gen 5.0 interferes with the vacuum line fittings on the GT350 intake tube. I agree that FP should have just included the Doorman 800-124 in the kit and charged $10 more...but they didn't'!

If you don't want to re-use the engine cover then it's irrelevant, by not using the cover your just removing useless weight (well it does provide some sound dampening to injector noise, but from a pure performance standpoint it's not needed obviously) and giving up some cosmetic appeal...then again some people like the look of the raw intake manifold and vacuum lines / fuel rails....it's kinda old school.

I prefer to have mine on personally, I do periodically open the hood to show the car to a friend or two who is jealous that I have a complete engine and they only have half an engine (4 cylinder sport compacts like BRZ's / MX-5's etc) or when bringing it in for service. The factory appearance goes a long way in keeping you from looking like "one of those guys" and making them question everything you say.

It may sound dumb, but it does matter. Bring a car in with something as simple as an after market catch can and you can get looks, at least I did, even if they didn't say anything. Since then I've carefully chosen mods that don't scream "my car is not stock" other than the ridiculously loud Corsa Extreme which the previous owner had installed. Other than that, most of my mods are more "hidden" or "behind the scenes" that only a car enthusiast or keen tech might actually notice when looking the car over thoroughly. Your mileage may vary from dealer to dealer and mine has been pretty good over all (had my Ecoboost Power Pack done there as well), but it doesn't hurt to be "sleeper".

 

[arfabe16]

I just bought some extra like what was shown in the pictures. Usually you buy it by the foot. I'd rather cut up extra than try to "cut out" vacuum line that is already used and routed on the intake manifold.

You do need to splice the stock line at one point (instructions tell you where or you can look at the photos in the link from another forum member I provided in the above post) and use the T-fitting provided in the Power Pack 2. It just helps to have extra tubing on hand so you can splice exactly where you want instead of trying to make it all work by removing piece A and putting it back to use in location B...

Mostly this connector mod is to clean up the looks of the engine bay by providing extra clearance so you don't have to notch the cover to keep things from rubbing against it.

If you don't want to re-use the engine cover then it's irrelevant, be not using the cover your just removing useless weight (well it does provide some sound dampening to injector noise, but from a pure performance standpoint it's not needed obviously) and some cosmetic appearance.

I prefer to have mine on personally, I do periodically open the hood to show the car to a friend or two who is jealous that I have a whole engine and they only have half an engine (4 cylinder sport compacts like BRZ's / MX-5's etc) or bring it in for service and the factory appearance goes a long way in keeping you from looking like "one of those guys".

It may sound dumb, but it does matter. Bring a car in with an after market catch can even and you get looks, at least I did, even if they didn't say anything. Since then I've carefully chosen mods that don't scream "my car is not stock" other than the ridiculously loud Corsa Extreme which the previous owner had installed before I got it (which i'm also thinking about downgrading to their Touring version or swapping it for the Ford Performance Touring exhaust by Borla). Both run X-pipes, but he FP one is 18 lbs lighter than the Corsa and 30 lbs lighter than stock. Neither add more than 5~7 hp so it comes down to sound, weight and build quality. But I digress!

Well, I'm gonna give this thing a shot. Given I have two left hands, there's a 50% chance I eff my car up beyond belief :help:

Fun story: first time I ever cleaned out the junk in my JLT oil separator catch can, I dropped the can into the engine bay... dropped about 10 F-bombs, tried to stick my hand in there to retrieve it, failed, and then had to disconnect the radiator fluid reservoir and some hose (NO idea what it does) to retrieve the catch can. My neighbor was out on his deck watching -- he must think I'm some sort of master mechanic, taking apart stuff in my engine bay like that -- but no, I'm just an idiot who dropped a catch can.

 

[TheLion]

Anyone know what the latest revision is for 2016 GT calibration? The alpha numeric string is certainly different than the Ecoboboost cal files, so not sure what the latest rev is. I would expect since I just downloaded it that it SHOULD be the latest but never hurts to verify with others. Getting it installed tomorrow (cringe)...sucks paying some one $200 for something I can do myself in about 1 hour...but hey it's worth the peace of mind and good risk management to have the warranty on a $10,000 engine!

 

[ChosenJuan]

I'm thinking about getting the Power Pack 2 to hold me over until a supercharger, really looking forward to the midrange torque! Just wondering, is it easy to go back to the factory tune?

 

[thelostotter]

I'm thinking about getting the Power Pack 2 to hold me over until a supercharger, really looking forward to the midrange torque! Just wondering, is it easy to go back to the factory tune?

Super easy. The stock tune is stored when the new one is flashed. And the pro cal tool gives you the option to restore the stock tune.

 

[arfabe16]

Super easy. The stock tune is stored when the new one is flashed. And the pro cal tool gives you the option to restore the stock tune.

A couple quick questions about the ProCal tool and software:
- After install, I noticed only one file was created... does this file contain both the new calibration and the stock calibration?
- If you were to change something like tire size or gears (which this calibration software supports), would you have to restore the stock tune first and then flash the new one all over again, or would you just go into the existing tune and adjust the tire size/gears?

 

[arfabe16]

Then that's what the 45 degree fitting is for that's posted several times a few pages back. Use that 45 degree fitting in conjunction with some 3/8" vacuum / fuel line.

That will allow you to keep the manifold cover on without having to cut a notch in it to avoid rubbing against the intake vacuum line. Maybe there's something else 2017's don't have that the 2015/2016's did or perhaps it's certain build dates, I honestly don't recall, but hopefully what I have described clears up the confusion.

Here is the thread I'm referring to, I think we are talking about the same clearance issue and this is the $15 "bolt on" solution: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1861692&postcount=50

This is super helpful and I appreciate your patience... the biggest hesitation I have to starting this little project is the cutting of the existing connector. Do you have any pics or video or even instructions on how exactly you removed the fitting that seems stuck there? You mentioned some cutting which makes me nervous, so seeing exactly where/what you cut would be helpful.

 

[TheLion]

A couple quick questions about the ProCal tool and software:
- After install, I noticed only one file was created... does this file contain both the new calibration and the stock calibration?
- If you were to change something like tire size or gears (which this calibration software supports), would you have to restore the stock tune first and then flash the new one all over again, or would you just go into the existing tune and adjust the tire size/gears?

Yes the calibration file you used to flash will then contain a copy of the factory calibration.

No you no NOT flash. Those are settable and the software tool will update those parameters in the pc without re flashing. Think of them as hidden settings in you car power train control module.

 

[TheLion]

This is super helpful and I appreciate your patience... the biggest hesitation I have to starting this little project is the cutting of the existing connector. Do you have any pics or video or even instructions on how exactly you removed the fitting that seems stuck there? You mentioned some cutting which makes me nervous, so seeing exactly where/what you cut would be helpful.

The only thing your cutting is the vacuum line on the left side of the stock intake and splicing it in to the vacuum line on the right side as the GT350 intake has only one vacuum port where the stock 5.0 has two. The instructions show exactly where and the kit provides a plastic t connector to splice them together.

I would download the instructions from ford performqnce website as they are in color and clearly show you what to do. Printed black and white ones are a bit hard to see the pictures in.

Remember though that in order to maintain your warranty you HAVE to have it installed by an A Sad certified technician. If your doing a self install you technically are voiding the warranty. I'm literally sitting at the dealership right now waiting for them to do the install....they are slow as I'm not at 2 hours. I could do this myself in about an hour....but to me the warranty is worth it as I'm only at 17k miles and have a 100k extenxed power train warranty.

 

[TexasRebel]

If your doing a self install you technically are voiding the warranty.

No you aren't.

You are just not getting a warranty on the FRPP parts as they are installed. No part of your original warranty is voided.

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