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2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

millhouse

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No you aren't.

You are just not getting a warranty on the FRPP parts as they are installed. No part of your original warranty is voided.
Indeed, it's simply up to the dealership to determine if the modifications caused the failure...and up to the owner to decide (if the claim is denied) to take them to court.
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Amacron

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Trying to find the answer to this. For the warranty to remain, I have a friend the that is an ASE certified Ford tech. Can we just install the part myself and have him sign it off? I really hate taking my car and having a dealership do anything.

WhT is actually involved in the paperwork. Does one just go online and enter the tech certificate number?
 

arfabe16

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Yes the calibration file you used to flash will then contain a copy of the factory calibration.

No you no NOT flash. Those are settable and the software tool will update those parameters in the pc without re flashing. Think of them as hidden settings in you car power train control module.
So, if I were to replace my stock 3.55 gears with 3.73 gears, what would I do? Just plug in the ProCal tool, move the little "Gear" gauge on the FP Software, and then what? That's it? How does it upgrade the calibration if I'm not re-flashing it?
 

arfabe16

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The only thing your cutting is the vacuum line on the left side of the stock intake and splicing it in to the vacuum line on the right side as the GT350 intake has only one vacuum port where the stock 5.0 has two. The instructions show exactly where and the kit provides a plastic t connector to splice them together.

I would download the instructions from ford performqnce website as they are in color and clearly show you what to do. Printed black and white ones are a bit hard to see the pictures in.

Remember though that in order to maintain your warranty you HAVE to have it installed by an A Sad certified technician. If your doing a self install you technically are voiding the warranty. I'm literally sitting at the dealership right now waiting for them to do the install....they are slow as I'm not at 2 hours. I could do this myself in about an hour....but to me the warranty is worth it as I'm only at 17k miles and have a 100k extenxed power train warranty.
I think the confusion here is that my PP2 is ALREADY installed -- I had a certified tech do it, registered the warranty with Ford Performance, etc.

So now I have to go back and change the PP2 fitting that's already in there with this new one (after the PP2 install, I have a vacuum hose rubbing against the manifold cover). Following the PP2 install instructions probably won't help me there since it's already installed.
 

TheLion

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I think the confusion here is that my PP2 is ALREADY installed -- I had a certified tech do it, registered the warranty with Ford Performance, etc.

So now I have to go back and change the PP2 fitting that's already in there with this new one (after the PP2 install, I have a vacuum hose rubbing against the manifold cover). Following the PP2 install instructions probably won't help me there since it's already installed.
Ok I understand what your saying now. Take a look just one page back:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60467&page=292

The picture I posted has three images. The first is of a bone stock 5.0 with the engine cover on. The fitting that is circled in the RED circle is the one you need to swap out for the Doorman 800-124.

Here's a video on how to disconnect common fuel line fittings. https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+Disconnect+Common+Fuel+Line+Fittings&oq=how+to+discon&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j69i61l2j69i60.1839j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

One end of the clip is flat. On the opposite side of the connector are two fingers with hooks on their inner edges. Pry them apart and then push them down into the connector.

Autozone MAY have a simple tool for that, but a thin needle nosed pliers works. You can disconnect the vacuum hose first then, rotate the connector until you can see the bottom with the two clips. It looks something like this on it's bottom side:

41920976975_f1d7af46c7.jpg
 

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TheLion

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Here's my initial review of the Power Pack 2 on my 2016 PP GT 6M. The car is optioned only with Performance Package and Rear Park Assist. I'm running a Corsa Extreme (looking to swap it out for a touring version from either Corsa or Ford Performance / Borla as it's a bit too loud for my tastes), lightweight 19x9.5 RTR Tech 7 wheels on some older and nearly worn out 275/40R19 Pilot Sport AS3+ tires (4 square setup).

The car has BMR SP080 lowering springs, BMR CB005 cradle lockout, Steeda Red Differential Bushings and FP Spherical Toe Link Bearings. Car had 17,500 miles on the odo when I had the Power Pack 2 installed. I typically run 93 Octane (which I've been running since the spring). Car was never tuned prior, this is the first and only other calibration that will ever be on this car as it is a quasi-daily driver (drive it about half of the week on average), for me reliability always trumps performance and even drive ability. It is now registered for warranty coverage as well.

On the install process, I did mention to the tech before hand that it's likely that we will get a CEL for crank angle sensor error after the ECU is flashed and it will need to be re-calibrated, so we were expecting it to occur and wasn't really much of a surprise.

The dealer charged me $259.00 after tax, took about 3 hours but the tech did a good job. We did have the crank angle sensor error after the PCM was flashed just as I said, but not immediately. Started up the car, the valet drove it through the car wash and was about to get out and hand me the keys when said the CEL just came on, so it took about 10 minutes for the CEL to determine there was a need to re-calibrate the crank angle sensor on my particular car just idling / driving around slowly in the parking lot.

I promptly gave it back to the tech (he was just starting to work on another car) who then re-calibrated it in about 5 minutes. I used my own flash drive for the calibration file so once he was done I had the "backup copy" of the original PCM calibration as ProCal uses the same file to store the backup in upon flashing the PCM. As of this review, I'm now at about 120 miles on the new calibration. In my car, the changes were very apparent immediately, in particular the throttle response, the mid-range punch and the extended rev range which the 5.0 just seems to absolutely love.

Here are my gripes with the factory 2nd Gen 5.0 PCM calibration:

1. Throttle mapping / throttle response felt more like my parents 2015 Lariate F-150 or a Ford Fucsion than a V8 muscle car.

2. Mid-range (3,000 to 5,000) was somewhat flat feeling, but not anemic. It was just OK.

3. Rev range just felt too short. I felt like I was always running out of gearing too fast and with a factory rev limit of only 6,800 RPM, at least for those with 3.73 diffs, that was true. 3.31's or even 3.55's would probably have been a better pairing with a 6,800 Rev Limit. No, it's not 7,000 stock even though a lot of review magazines report that, the limiter actually kicks in at 6,800 which severely neuters the engines capabilities considering the valve lift, valve springs, rods, crank etc. were all built to handle up 7,500 RPM....even the factory intake manifold holds up well to about 7,100 RPM.

4. The competitors from Chevy (LT1 6.2L) and Dodge (6.4L) felt quite a bit more powerful due to their stronger mid-range and more appropriate throttle mapping. They feel like muscle cars where my stock 2016 GT felt more like an import with a small V8, maybe something like I'd expect in some BMW's or even an American Sport Sedan with an up-sized engine etc. The stock 5.0 wasn't bad, but it wasn't great either, especially considering the slight increase in overall weight compared to the 2011-2014's.

The stock GT PP isn't a bad sports car by any means, but it was definitely setup as a grand touring car, not a modern performance muscle car or sports car which is what I wanted. The PP GT was just good, but certainly not great. I would agree with Motor Trend, despite their seemingly always pro-GM bias, that the 2015 GT PP would give you the performance if you really wanted it, but you would have to work hard for it. It was in it's factory form, a Grand Touring car first and for most, with performance emphasis as a second characteristic. That's honestly what the bigger majority of customers want and why the Mustang out sells all the others.

It's a very adaptable platform at a very attainable price point. Here's the kicker, we all know Ford locks away quite a bit of performance in the stock platform. While it's set up as a Grand Tourer, it has the foundation of a modern V8 Muscle / Sports car with a great chassis and engine hidden behind Touring Comforts.

With the Power Pack 2, every issue with the engine performance has been addressed. No, this Power Pack will not make it feel like a 670 HP super charged 5.0 or even the Chevy LT1 6.2 / Dodge 6.4....but it will completely change the character and performance of the 2nd generation 5.0 found in 2015 - 2017 Mustang GT's. A Power Pack 2 5.0 even with stock exhaust makes a nearly identical power band HP for HP shifted just 500 RPM higher in the rev range than the LT1 6.2 at the wheels. Throw in a high flowing X-pipe cat back exhaust and your edging out a stock LT1 or about matching a bolt on LT1 (cat back exhaust and intake) with an engine that weighs 15 lbs less still. There's a lot of value hidden away.

Now, onto drive ability: I have not experienced any rev hang in my 6M or anything abnormal thus far from a drive ability standpoint. Idle is nice and smooth, I swear in my car, it even sounds l little less "clanky"? Maybe it's my imagination, but so far everything seems to run more smoothly.

Mid range power is now strong and carries you quickly to a nice broad top end. The extra 350 RPM of rev range makes the 3.73 gearing feel quite a bit taller than it is and the gearing / rev range now complement one another nicely. The car feels just right, like it was designed this way from the factory. 1st, while still short, isn't the "instantaneous" gear it used to be. I actually have a split second longer to comprehend that I need to shift to 2nd soon!

Throttle sensitivity is now what you would expect in a modern sports car. There is a small but perfectly usable range of initial pedal travel where the 5.0 is not really putting down a lot of power yet that works very well for every day driving or driving in bad weather / low traction conditions, but give it just a bit more pedal and you very quickly get into the meat of the power capabilities. And all this is with a full passenger load + AC on hot and humid days (myself at 215 lbs, a 190 lb friend, and two children combined at 180 lbs). With just me in the car...hold on! Cooler weather? Snaps your head back.

Even if the 5.0 wasn't making more power, the throttle mapping alone would have given it a lot more character and life than the factory throttle mapping.

The top end is even better than it was stock, it just pulls nicely all the way up through 6,500 to it's 7,150 RPM rev limit and while power does drop off a bit past 6,500, it doesn't feel dead and holds reasonably well, pulling strong all the way out. A little flat, but with plenty of bite. Remember your still making over 375 WHP at 7,150 RPM with a Power Pack 2, about as much as the car made stock at it's previous 6,500 RPM peak. Past 6,500 is by no means anemic and still encourages you to rev it out.

The bottom end / cruising / daily driving RPM range is also significantly improved. It's not the torque monster of a super charge 5.0, Chevy LT1 6.2 or Dodge 6.4 is in the low RPM range, that's something only the bigger displacement push rod for FI breeds can provide. However it's no longer completely dead, boggy and anemic. It now moves the car along nicely and provides adequate power. It feels appropriate for a higher revving modern V8. The bottom end performance just makes the car much more drive able and I have no complaints about it now.

I would expect if your on 93 with an X-pipe based exhaust, your whp on a dyno jet dyno should be around 405 to 420 depending on weather, the quality of your 93, weather you have a cat back exhaust and the particular dyno.

Even with three passengers, AC on and 85 F high humidity day (like this morning) the car still feels strong and pulls hard throughout the rev range. While the Power Pack 2 is known for it's "mid-range punch", I personally feel that in my car the top end is also quite a bit improved not only because peak power is up, but because the rev range is extended and allows you stay in the top end range longer.

I also want to note for those who auto x or track, the rev limiter now just bounces around at the limit as opposed to completely cutting fuel and forcing you to slow down until you can apply throttle again. There are situations in auto x or track where you would produce better lap times by just staying in gear at bouncing off the rev limiter before entering the corner than trying to up shift then down shift right before and the this change allows you to do that.

All in all, I could not be happier with the Power Pack 2. This is how the 2015 - 2017's should have come from the factory... then again there wouldn't be as much of a reason to go out and buy a stock 2018...a 2015-2017 PP GT with 3.73 and Power Pack 2 is going to be put down a higher average power than a stock 2018 PP GT with 3.55 gearing because of it's power band and gearing combination and slightly lower weight than 2018's which are now tipping the scales at up to 3880+lbs. While a 2018 gen 3 5.0 even stock is making as much if not a little more average power than a Power Pack 2 2nd generation 5.0, it's also heavier and geared higher, both of which eat into 1/4 times.

Fastest stock 2018 with DR's I know of ran a 12.2 so far. Braski with his Power Pack 2, DR's and IRS ran a best of 11.86 so unless that 2018 had a horrible DA compared to Braski, I think PP2 with 3.73 gearing in a minimally optioned 2015-2017 PP GT is a very potent combination. The car is "just right". It's gone from good to great and now it's time to just enjoy it!
 
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Braski

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Good write up The Lion! Just want to add I'm running slicks and skinnies not just a drag radial. I'd love to put my drag set up on a stock 18 manual to see what I could run. I'm looking for a new PR next time at the track now that I got new clutch, flywheel and shifter! No complaints with my PP2!
 

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Good write up The Lion! Just want to add I'm running slicks and skinnies not just a drag radial. I'd love to put my drag set up on a stock 18 manual to see what I could run. I'm looking for a new PR next time at the track now that I got new clutch, flywheel and shifter! No complaints with my PP2!
I did have the infamous No Lift Shift stutter this morning going to work when I had the chance to do a 1-2-3 pull even though I was not trying to engage the NLS feature.

So far that's the only issue, now at about 200+ miles. I do NOT have a steeda 35lb clutch assist spring installed either, I'm running the stock clutch spring so my clutch goes all the way out as I had issues with it getting stuck at WOT in 3rd gear even bone stock with the steeda 35 lb spring. It still a little sticky even with the stock spring, but doesn't actually get stuck, all the way down and functions just fine, so stock it is unless I go with an after market clutch at some point.

I need to learn the trip points of the throttle / clutch (my muscle memory) to avoid entering into NLS, I believe I've developed a habbit of pre-loading the clutch pedal while my foot is still on the gas and that's the cause. I don't have that issue when reving it out to the rev limiter (bouncing off the rev limiter for a split second before shifting), regular shifting in daily or even spirited driving (just not revving it all the way out) or even driving on back roads and doing 1-2 or 2-3 quick shifts while reving it out.

It only stuttered when I went WOT and revved it all the way out trying to squeeze every last RPM in each gear on a straight and I'm thinking the NLS won't engage if your not starting from 1st gear. I'm betting if you were driving along in second, then went WOT and shifted to 3rd at 7100 even if you pre-load the clutch it wouldn't engage because you didn't start out in 1st gear so your "not drag racing" as far as the ECU is concerned. That would be good news for Auto X / HDPE guys who may want to use Power Pack 2 for it's reliability / performance / cost combination.

There seems to be a fine line between engaging NLS and not engaging it and honestly that's my only real gripe is not being able to disable it all together when I want to row all the gears in a straight line, but Braski has had no issues with the stutter from NLS engaging accidentally, so there's a way to shift quickly and avoid tripping it, I just need to "driver mod" myself into figuring it out :D

But I am absolutely loving the Power Pack 2. The difference just makes the car much more fun to drive and acceleration feels so much more effortless. The throttle mapping could not be better even without the added power.

It's almost as if the factory tuning had a "timing ramp" built into it, instead of giving you everything the engine could safely mechanically produce. I know that Ford actually build in an artificial time delay in the stock Ecoboost calibration just to slow it down....

A few notes on gas mileage, I've been mostly on back country roads / towns with a full passenger load and AC on, getting about 15 mpg average. However when I'm cruising on the highway I'm in the mid to high 20's on flat ground at about 75~77. So if your fuel economy goes down, it's because your foot is staying down more as well :lol:

So Power Pack 2 would be great for long highway cruise trips as well. If you drive a bit slower, I've gotten into the low 30's even stock (60~65 mph on back country highways) with a short 3.73 PP gearing.

Air Conditioning however seems to really kill fuel mileage in this car! I turned the AC on and off this morning while cruising at 33 mph in 5th gear in a slow zone, every time AC was on I lost about 3~4 mpg on the "instantaneous" fuel mileage bar and it would stay down. Once I turned it back off I gained that 3~4 mpg back...maybe on the highway it would better or perhaps my pump is failing? It blow cold air...efficiency fail :doh:. I've never been able to measure more than a 1 mpg drop with AC on in any 4 cylinder or V6 I've ever owned. Our Prius C could care less weather the AC is on or not regarding fuel mileage.

So I'm going to say a full passenger load with AC on in hot weather driving on back country roads is about as worst case as you can get. Fuel mileage was at about 14.5 yesterday (including a bunch of hot roding around which the kids and wife love surprisingly). Sure, we didn't' buy these cars for their fuel economy, but there's no sense in wasting more fuel than is necessary and only when it's necessary to meet the performance.

Other than needing to re-learn my shift / clutch / throttling timing to avoid NLS, Power Pack 2 is VERY good. I could certainly believe the report way back in this thread from a member who ran Auto X and HDPE with a Power Pack 2 said his car was a whole new animal and he was even able to pass an instructor in a GT350 (on a short track, that high RPM power band can't be utilized effectively, which was what I warned about with the Power Pack 3).

Stout mid-range and decent rain bow top top-end seems to make a car easier to drive than a flat mid-range and mountain peak top-end.
 

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Oh and I almost forgot, Braski, are you consciously putting a slight delay in your clutch foot movement or working to keep your foot completely off the clutch to avoid NLS?
 

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I never ran into the stutter issue at all. As far as I know my wife and my mechanic never had it stutter when shifting either. My wife is really good at driving manual but never takes the rpms up past 6500. I did the NLS one time and I think I actually shifted a bit slower than my normal "race mode" just because of muscle memory. When I shift I don't think about it I just jab the clutch, lift on the gas and push/pull the shifter as quick as I can all at the same time. I doubt my clutch pedal ever makes it to the floor. With the stock shifter I couldn't hit 5th quite that fast but I can now with the new shifter. :thumbsup:
 

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My car will stutter at the track when I'm at WOT. Sometimes I forget that I have the tune so I adjust my shifting style and it works itself out.

You can hear it on my track vids when on the straights.
 

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So, if I were to replace my stock 3.55 gears with 3.73 gears, what would I do? Just plug in the ProCal tool, move the little "Gear" gauge on the FP Software, and then what? That's it? How does it upgrade the calibration if I'm not re-flashing it?
Yes it's that simple. Its just a number represented by a variable stored in the EEPROM or FLASH memory on the Micro Controller that manages the engine / transmission and any other critical engine related functions. The ProCal software (via the Ford Cantilope OBDII inteface) updates the values in the PCM (aka the Micro Controller and all it's supporting circuitry) when you set them in ProCal.

I did that in my Ecoboost which was already Ford Performance tuned when I did a GT PP diff swap. I had a base model 2016 Ecoboost which I applied many of my own updates to including swapping out the stock 3.31 for a loaded 3.73 Torsen diff from a salvaged GT. I just plugged in the Canelope OBDII interface, opened up ProCal and set the settings. My speedo was spot on with my GPS and also matched our then 2008 Ford Focus SE speedo as well for a 3rd verification.

It's nice to be able to set that especially if you run smaller or larger than factory tire sizes. For example Auto X and HDPE often run 285/35R19's on factory PP wheels or other after market 19's which run nearly an inch smaller in diameter. Adjusting the Revs Per Mile will also allow for correct speedo readings and gas mileage / odometer calculations.

So the code likely will use a variable called some like "GearRatio" for example (just an example name, I don't know what it's actually called in the program code itself), and the program will grab what ever number is stored in memory under the memory address which the "GearRatio" variable represents and use that.

This allows you to only have to communicate a few bytes of information via the OBDII interface and update that particular value instead of having to re-program the entire ECU which always poses a risk of a communications bus or power glitch that could brick your ECU (unlikely but it can happen). It's then used throughout the rest of the program. This is very basic stuff I'm describing here from a programmatic standpoint, but it should give you enough understanding of basic micro-controller code architecture so that you understand why it does what it does.
 

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I never ran into the stutter issue at all. As far as I know my wife and my mechanic never had it stutter when shifting either. My wife is really good at driving manual but never takes the rpms up past 6500. I did the NLS one time and I think I actually shifted a bit slower than my normal "race mode" just because of muscle memory. When I shift I don't think about it I just jab the clutch, lift on the gas and push/pull the shifter as quick as I can all at the same time. I doubt my clutch pedal ever makes it to the floor. With the stock shifter I couldn't hit 5th quite that fast but I can now with the new shifter. :thumbsup:
Are you revving it out to 7,100 or are you shifting just a tad earlier? The stock rev limit is only 6,800, it's right where the hashed lines start on the tachometer. From what you describe is that you have a good driver mod and your muscle memory already takes your foot fully off the throttle before you push the clutch in. I think I tend to start pressing the clutch before my foot has fully released the throttle and I'll bet many others are like that as well.

I'm not sure if NLS only engages when it detects both throttle and clutch pedal pressure simultaneously or if it also involves RPM range as well as a 3rd variable.

With Power Pack 2, the rev limiter is increased to 7,150 RPM. Typically a human needs about a 100 RPM buffer to avoid running into the rev limiter. Ford Performance gave us about a 150 RPM buffer, I'm wondering if you shift too close to the rev limiter if NLS kicks in also. Then again bouncing once of the rev limiter isn't the end of the world for a 1/4 mile run unlike stock where it just cut fuel completely and forced you to slow down before you could apply power again.

I did try a fast shift via muscle memory as I normally do from 2-3 when entering a long on-ramp and I ran right into the rev limiter in 2nd as I wasn't expecting to get there quite that fast, bounced off it twice then shifted. No stutter. So I'm thinking NLS doesn't activate unless you start from 1st gear and apply pressure to throttle and clutch simultaneously.

While there's no sensor to see what gear your in, the PCM can have some idea based on engine RPM vs. speed both of which the PCM can see. So far this morning in my 1-2-3 is the only time I've had the stutter, but it wasn't horrible, just a little hickup.

Not sure how much it actually would affect 1/4 mile time or not, but at least we have a good driver with Big / Littles that has proven it's able to match or beat the best times of the fastest competitors with 8 speed auto's to boot. Normally it's a no contest for a 8A vs. 6M with similar power / weight unless the 6M is make a bit more power to compensate.

That's no easy feat for a 6 speed manual first generation S550, but all I can say is that this thing really flys with the Power Pack 2. The difference is there in every aspect of the power band, from low end to top end. The car just wants to go and go it does.

I was enjoying the low end torque at 1500 RPM today, I could stay in third and easily accelerate back up to crusing speed at 43 mph when some one would turn onto a side road in front of me (slowing down to about 20~25 mph).

Stock, the car would accelerate in 3rd from 1500 RPM, but it was very sluggish and took a decent amount of throttle to get it going, the 5.0 would feel strained rather than just smoothly and effortlessly getting back up to speed. It would seem that engine tuning alone is 50% of the battle in modern engines.
 

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My car will stutter at the track when I'm at WOT. Sometimes I forget that I have the tune so I adjust my shifting style and it works itself out.

You can hear it on my track vids when on the straights.
Do you find the mid-range torque more useful than if you had all top end like PP3?

In any performance application, you want to apply the highest average power. If your spend more time in the mid-range than at the top end, then you want an engine that produces a stronger mid-range power band than an Everest high top end.

But if you spend more time at higher RPM, then that Everest high top end will pay for itself many times over. For Auto X, mid-range is king, especially on very tight technical tracks.

PP3 makes higher average power than PP2, but ONLY if you can keep the average engine RPM 350 RPM higher, which might not be as easy as it sounds without gearing changes.
 

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Do you find the mid-range torque more useful than if you had all top end like PP3?

In any performance application, you want to apply the highest average power. If your spend more time in the mid-range than at the top end, then you want an engine that produces a stronger mid-range power band than an Everest high top end.

But if you spend more time at higher RPM, then that Everest high top end will pay for itself many times over. For Auto X, mid-range is king, especially on very tight technical tracks.

PP3 makes higher average power than PP2, but ONLY if you can keep the average engine RPM 350 RPM higher, which might not be as easy as it sounds without gearing changes.
I do a lot of Auto-X so that was one of the main reasons for going PP2. That and cost lol.

If I did only road course stuff then I would definitely saved up a lil more and go PP3. :thumbsup:
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