SolarFlare
Well-Known Member
Both follow same path.
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Except the fact that cats usually don't live very long on boosted cars.Welp.... you seem to already have a handle on the problem. Hi-flow cats cost almost nothing in terms of power, nor does a decent couple of bullet resonators. People get to damn hung up on "free flowing" exhaust. Its not like it really matters if you make 651hp instead of 662 when you can't stand to be in the car with that extra 10 hp.
There are millions of factory forced induction cars that get warrantied for 60 to 100k miles with no issues so obviously it can be done just fine - even at the horsepower levels we're talking about.Except the fact that cats usually don't live very long on boosted cars.
Aftermarket and factory forced induction is a little different though. Most factory forced induction cars still put out less power than alot of boosted coyotes do. From the factory they have some kind of cat protection feature which reduces power once cats get to a certain temp, all of which is usually removed with an aftermarket tune for more power.There are millions of factory forced induction cars that get warrantied for 60 to 100k miles with no issues so obviously it can be done just fine - even at the horsepower levels we're talking about.
I understand your line of thinking though, its easier to just run with no cats than it is to spend a long time datalogging and adjusting to get the tune as close to perfect as possible. Most people don't have the time or patience to deal with it (I'm one of them).
The point I made remains the same though, if you just have straight pipes you're going to have rasp on these cars. Either have to deal with it or get creative. Probably some strategically placed resonators or even a center muffler like one of the magnaflow dual-in/out types would settle it down a bit but then you're changing the sound tone as well. Kind of a catch 22.
My concern about the headers is the fact that these SW have the 2.5 "factory connect" on them. Shop will either have to cut them off and weld in the X or I'll have to change the leads(?) out to 3". I'll talk with the shop to see what they recommend.Both follow same path.
I think that pic is incorrect,if u go onto CJ'S website u can see the one they have for the 15 to 17 mustang is much longer,same design just longer,looks to be the same length as an x or h pipe.Is this part meant to fit in place of the current X? Isn’t the x much longer?
I dont believe CJPP uses the 2.5" in and out. I believe theirs might be 2.25 in and 2.5" out. And they customized it with the longer pipes to make it a bolt on piece.I think that pic is incorrect,if u go onto CJ'S website u can see the one they have for the 15 to 17 mustang is much longer,same design just longer,looks to be the same length as an x or h pipe.
That is correct.I dont believe CJPP uses the 2.5" in and out. I believe theirs might be 2.25 in and 2.5" out. And they customized it with the longer pipes to make it a bolt on piece.
Gotcha ya,u would think they would make one that is a bolt on in 2.5 in and out and a 3 inch in and out.I dont believe CJPP uses the 2.5" in and out. I believe theirs might be 2.25 in and 2.5" out. And they customized it with the longer pipes to make it a bolt on piece.
Never looked at that one. I’m using 12468. 2.5 in and out.That is correct.
The part number from magnaflow to use that's 2.5" in/out is 11386. The one said to be ordered is much bigger and much quieter. The 11386 provides a similar volume to if you had the stock resonator, but a better tone.