Starting point alignment settings for base GT

[WildHorse]

As the title states, what would be the best starting point? Keep in mind it will be driven to the track. Need recommendations on springs too, primary cornering/braking, comfort secondary. These will be on a 295/40/18 square setup.

Thanks in advance :cheers:

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[Static_LV]

Zero to slight toe out in the front, slight toe in on the rear. Rear factory camber seems to be acceptable for me -1.6L / -1.7R. Front camber, as much as possible while staying F-Street legal for autocross. If you can run camber plates, I would highly recommend it. Mark a street setting and a track setting on there once you have it dialed in the way you like it.

Springs and matching dampers are a whole other ball of wax. I am running Koni Yellows with factory PP springs (again F-Street rules). Were I doing a track exclusive build, I would be looking at some much higher rate Hyperco springs some quality 2/3way dampers, sway bars to balance it all out, and a whole bunch of bushing/bearing upgrades, not necessarily in that order.

I am sure that someone like Norm or Boardkat or a bunch of other track guys will be along shortly to provide a whole bunch more knowledge

 

[WildHorse]

Thanks for the info! Looking forward to more input

 

[NightmareMoon]

I don't do as many track days as some others, but this is my 2c.

Without camber plates, you can't do much in the front, since camber isn't adjustable. You really need more negative camber to save tire wear though, so consider camber plates.

Front
Toe: 0 toe (or slight toe out if you like turn in to be twitchy)
Camber (non adjustable), ideally -2.5 to -3 if you can get it.
Caster: as much as you can get

Rear,
Toe: Slight toe in (0.15)
Camber -1.7 is maybe fine. Its hard to roll over the the rear sidewalls on these cars.

 

[WildHorse]

Thanks for the tips! What do you guys think about this along with the BMR cradle lockout kit? https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-FR3A-M8

 

[NightmareMoon]

BMR brace can't hurt, but the car is plenty quick without it.

the track pack is too mild for my tastes, so I'd look deeper into the aftermarket for suspension parts.

 

[qtrracer]

I run 1/8" total toe out in the front; 1/16" total in on the rear. Camber is -2.5* front; -2* on the rear. On the front camber, Ford allows you to slot the upper strut mount hole to allow some camber (see above). This is an FS legal mod. However, by doing so messes with the KPI and throws off camber and caster gain in dive and roll.

The better approach is to leave the strut mounts alone and use camber plates to gain a little more camber - maybe -2* max. Caster in stock trim is pretty good but if you can get +6.9* that together with the added camber should be good in dive and roll. Then test with tire readings and alter as needed. For me, car is pretty neutral with MPSS all around; 265s up front; 285s in the rear on stock wheels. Cold I run about 30/29. I do have KW dual adjustables all around.

 

[WildHorse]

I run 1/8" total toe out in the front; 1/16" total in on the rear. Camber is -2.5* front; -2* on the rear. On the front camber, Ford allows you to slot the upper strut mount hole to allow some camber (see above). This is an FS legal mod. However, by doing so messes with the KPI and throws off camber and caster gain in dive and roll.

The better approach is to leave the strut mounts alone and use camber plates to gain a little more camber - maybe -2* max. Caster in stock trim is pretty good but if you can get +6.9* that together with the added camber should be good in dive and roll. Then test with tire readings and alter as needed. For me, car is pretty neutral with MPSS all around; 265s up front; 285s in the rear on stock wheels. Cold I run about 30/29. I do have KW dual adjustables all around.

Thanks for the detailed info. Hows the street manners with your setup?

 

[GTP]

I have a similar alignment as [MENTION=24974]qtrracer[/MENTION], but 0 front toe.

I have GT350 suspension all around with Steeda adjustables,, CB005, camber plates, etc. But I miss my OEM base suspension as a DD. So I would be very careful about getting too excited about a track suspension. It is not enjoyable on your commute. Steeda's new min drop springs might be about as stiff as I'd want to go at this point.

I recommend you ride around on some rougher roads in some others' cars before you spend a lot of money.

 

[Eritas]

How often do you track your car?

 

[GTP]

Not often. Not nearly often enough to run a 1% use setup for 99% of the time.
I plan to track 3-4 times next year.

I haven't figured out if such a thing as an acceptable compromise truly exists.

I may just have to get faster at switching between two sets of dampers/springs and just run a compressed track season. I would probably leave the stiff bars on all the time.

Also, I think all this praise for how much better their car feels on the street is overblown. Because the place to drive frisky is the track and not the street. Besides the stock setup at the track doesn't suck and it is still fun to drive the car fast in a controlled environment.

Having said all this, if I had to do it again I would just first lockout the cradle, replace bushings with bearings, add camber bolts or plates, and then take it to a track day. I would ride on a rough road in someones stiff car before i ordered springs/dampers and then carefully decide what to do next.

BTW my GF used to like my car but now she thinks the ride sucks and doesn't want to be in it. :frusty:

 

[Eritas]

I meant to the OP.

For you, you'll probably find yourself wearing the inside of the tire quicker than the outside due to your limited track time.

 

[GTP]

Well, your post was right after mine, so...

I hear you about tire wear. I back off the front camber when back on the street, and rear camber is close to oem. I check my wear and it is even. I find 30 psi cold works well.

 

[WildHorse]

How often do you track your car?

Looking at twice a year. It's a 1.3 mile flat road course. Straightaway is just over a quarter mile long.

 

[qtrracer]

Thanks for the detailed info. Hows the street manners with your setup?

No problems with street manners. My commute is about 85 miles round trip, mixed highway and city.

Tracked the car yesterday. 2 mile course, not technical but fast. Tried to get some tire temp measurements after each run but my instructor wanted to debrief each time. By the time I checked 15 minutes had gone by after pitting. Nonetheless I gave it a try.

I found temps for the fronts were within 3* across the tread (both sides were the same); rears were running hot in the center and cool on the inside, and about the same as the fronts on the outside. I aired them down 2# but never got another chance to check (cold was 28F/30R).

Car handled very well. No push or looseness (except on a down shift I let the clutch out without rev-matching and the rear stepped out a bit - lesson learned) :doh:.

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