Gibbo205
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi there
Car is back to stock mods wise, those who have being here from the start, read most of my post will know I always highly rated the stock intake. Yes some CAI's will make you a touch more power with an open hood on a dyno on a cold day. Some CAI's are simply required if your fitting headers or uprated intake manifolds to flow more.
But if your mods basically include a tune and a catback, then you will probably get the best results from sticking with stock CAI as it flows more than adequate for upto 500HP and its a true enclosed/sealed CAI, so it can benefit RAM AIR which I did mention over a year ago.
Since then during my nights of reading these forums some of the US guys, in particular Kelly from BMR found some in short free power mods on the stock intake. So he gets the credit, in fact after he did these mods, got a custom tune from Palm Beach dyno (ex head tuner from Lund), he went mid 11s quarter at 117-118mph with his only mods being. Stock air box mods, custom tune, E85 flex fuel and tyres. He also had the Mishimoto tube that replaces the stock section between TB and air box lid, so no re-tune required, if this gives power or not is unknown, rumours are its worth 15-20HP under the curve, true? Who knows!
Tyres play biggest part in ET, but terminal generally boils down to power and in short based on this he would of being running around 480-490HP crank to run such a terminal in a manual, though bear in mind he is a professional drag racer too, so he knows how to row that MT86 M6 very quick indeed, no doubt power shifting too.
Lets dismiss 10-20HP for E85 and 10-15HP for not having handicapped headers.
In short the same mods could see a UK car at 445-465HP, nothing special but I think many here would be happy with such a result on stock air box and just a tune file. The only way to get more substantial gains is via headers and inlet manifolds. Or just plonk one of those really expensive fancy intake manifolds on the car that go by the name Whipple and then you whip anyones backside. ;)
If not I've wasted my time in posting this.
Here are the list of modifications I've made to the air box:
- Remove the emissions restriction thing as it blocks flow, takes a minute (picture below), credit goes to Kelly from BMR for this spot! COST: £0
- K&N oiled filter for max flow or a dry one (stock filter still in mine, will fit K&N tomorrow) COST: £55 from carpartsforless or £60 from eurocarparts!
- Velossa big mouth to channel and create RAM AIR. COST: £100 and a pain in the ass to install but also benefits all CAI's
- Sound tube delete, just for tidyness, but some report throttle response improves: COST: £5
- Mishimoto tube effort: £200, does it work? Who the fuck knows haha, I might buy one as in theory it will fit MY18. If I do might re-visit dyno with above and custom tune with max spark for Vpower99 see if can crack 460HP over Winter to make it fair comparison to when I had PMAS that made 472HP.
- DRILL OUT the honey combs to allow more air to flow to air box. COST: £0
- BIG JOB (Not bothered myself) but line the stock intake manifold or whatever manifold you install with heat reflective material on the bottom, I did this on my 350 IM, FordSVT gained 7HP with it, true who knows, but if your bored one day, worth a shot. COST: £40-£60 for silver thick reflective material.
In short remove the emissions dudar, delete the sound tune, drill out the honey combs cost less than a tenner. Helps reduce IAT and improves flow.
I did log before and after:
Maf flow rate with emission thingy: 42.76lbs
Maf flow rate with emission thing deleted: 43.50lbs
The above is with stock filter, if K&N can put me over 44lbs that will be highest I've ever seen on stock air box on my car, though it does not mean more power, as tomorrow same road I might see only 42.5 or 44 as weather can impact it, ambient temp etc and the tune itself.
This is by no way concrete evidence of fuck all, but same road, same gear, same hour and flow had an ickle improvement.
If true that could be 5-10HP with a tune, the cars stock map will adjust sensors to pretty much keep power locked at 410HP, of course doing the above on stock tune should make sure you always get the 410HP. Shit fuel, hot day the car won't always make 410HP if the knock sensors decide to say NO, so try to keep them happy with good fuel and lower IAT's and cylinder head temps, it all helps.
A tune allows the car ECU to not be so limiting, so doing the above could result in more horsepower everywhere as a tune will allow the car to take advance of more flow, more spark advance due to good fuel etc.
Pictures as promised of the emissions thingy effort, just rip it out, unless your a tree huger, but then you should of got an EB you idiots! ;)
Tree hugging device:
Tree hugging device be gone:
So if your on stock intake, some stuff to try which some are FREE.
Car is back to stock mods wise, those who have being here from the start, read most of my post will know I always highly rated the stock intake. Yes some CAI's will make you a touch more power with an open hood on a dyno on a cold day. Some CAI's are simply required if your fitting headers or uprated intake manifolds to flow more.
But if your mods basically include a tune and a catback, then you will probably get the best results from sticking with stock CAI as it flows more than adequate for upto 500HP and its a true enclosed/sealed CAI, so it can benefit RAM AIR which I did mention over a year ago.
Since then during my nights of reading these forums some of the US guys, in particular Kelly from BMR found some in short free power mods on the stock intake. So he gets the credit, in fact after he did these mods, got a custom tune from Palm Beach dyno (ex head tuner from Lund), he went mid 11s quarter at 117-118mph with his only mods being. Stock air box mods, custom tune, E85 flex fuel and tyres. He also had the Mishimoto tube that replaces the stock section between TB and air box lid, so no re-tune required, if this gives power or not is unknown, rumours are its worth 15-20HP under the curve, true? Who knows!
Tyres play biggest part in ET, but terminal generally boils down to power and in short based on this he would of being running around 480-490HP crank to run such a terminal in a manual, though bear in mind he is a professional drag racer too, so he knows how to row that MT86 M6 very quick indeed, no doubt power shifting too.
Lets dismiss 10-20HP for E85 and 10-15HP for not having handicapped headers.
In short the same mods could see a UK car at 445-465HP, nothing special but I think many here would be happy with such a result on stock air box and just a tune file. The only way to get more substantial gains is via headers and inlet manifolds. Or just plonk one of those really expensive fancy intake manifolds on the car that go by the name Whipple and then you whip anyones backside. ;)
If not I've wasted my time in posting this.
Here are the list of modifications I've made to the air box:
- Remove the emissions restriction thing as it blocks flow, takes a minute (picture below), credit goes to Kelly from BMR for this spot! COST: £0
- K&N oiled filter for max flow or a dry one (stock filter still in mine, will fit K&N tomorrow) COST: £55 from carpartsforless or £60 from eurocarparts!
- Velossa big mouth to channel and create RAM AIR. COST: £100 and a pain in the ass to install but also benefits all CAI's
- Sound tube delete, just for tidyness, but some report throttle response improves: COST: £5
- Mishimoto tube effort: £200, does it work? Who the fuck knows haha, I might buy one as in theory it will fit MY18. If I do might re-visit dyno with above and custom tune with max spark for Vpower99 see if can crack 460HP over Winter to make it fair comparison to when I had PMAS that made 472HP.
- DRILL OUT the honey combs to allow more air to flow to air box. COST: £0
- BIG JOB (Not bothered myself) but line the stock intake manifold or whatever manifold you install with heat reflective material on the bottom, I did this on my 350 IM, FordSVT gained 7HP with it, true who knows, but if your bored one day, worth a shot. COST: £40-£60 for silver thick reflective material.
In short remove the emissions dudar, delete the sound tune, drill out the honey combs cost less than a tenner. Helps reduce IAT and improves flow.
I did log before and after:
Maf flow rate with emission thingy: 42.76lbs
Maf flow rate with emission thing deleted: 43.50lbs
The above is with stock filter, if K&N can put me over 44lbs that will be highest I've ever seen on stock air box on my car, though it does not mean more power, as tomorrow same road I might see only 42.5 or 44 as weather can impact it, ambient temp etc and the tune itself.
This is by no way concrete evidence of fuck all, but same road, same gear, same hour and flow had an ickle improvement.
If true that could be 5-10HP with a tune, the cars stock map will adjust sensors to pretty much keep power locked at 410HP, of course doing the above on stock tune should make sure you always get the 410HP. Shit fuel, hot day the car won't always make 410HP if the knock sensors decide to say NO, so try to keep them happy with good fuel and lower IAT's and cylinder head temps, it all helps.
A tune allows the car ECU to not be so limiting, so doing the above could result in more horsepower everywhere as a tune will allow the car to take advance of more flow, more spark advance due to good fuel etc.
Pictures as promised of the emissions thingy effort, just rip it out, unless your a tree huger, but then you should of got an EB you idiots! ;)
Tree hugging device:
Tree hugging device be gone:
So if your on stock intake, some stuff to try which some are FREE.
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