Information Needed - K-Brace Bolt - Sheared Thread

[THE_AHJ]

YMMV but a punch and a decently weighted hammer gets the job done. I drilled a bit and thought it was a b*tch to do because I snapped a drill bit, so I used the punch to make a small hole again and something told me just give it a few good whacks......and boom, it popped out.

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[RSPEC-015]

YMMV?

 

[THE_AHJ]

Your mileage may vary. Just means that it may not be/work for everyone. I guess do at your own risk.

 

[GT Pony]

I put back all the factory nuts and 7 of the 8 nuts tightened satisfactorily with my torque wrench. When trying to tighten the 8th nut I sheared off the thread.

What torque value were you using? I think the manual says those nuts are torqued to 41 ft-lbs. Maybe there was a defect in the stud that snapped off.

 

[GT Pony]

I was digging around looking at recommended torque values for metric fasteners. The strut tower studs are 10M x 1.50 (10 mm dia x 1.50 mm pitch). What I'm finding is that Ford's recommended torque value of 41 ft-lbs seems to be higher than the general information out there.

It looks like based on Ford's torque spec that the studs are most likely Grade 8.8 (120K PSI) which is equivalent to a Grade 5 in US sizes. But Ford is recommending 41 ft-lbs where as most chart show it more like 35~37 ft-lbs.
http://www.xrfchassis.com/images/PDF/Torque_Reference_Chart.pdf


This reference shows 10M x 1.50 Grade 8.8 at 44 N-m, which is 33 ft-lbs.
http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfi...ters_Pty_Ltd_Recommended_Assembly_Torques.pdf

After looking at this, I wouldn't torque the strut tower nuts over 33 ft-lbs ... probably shoot for 30 ft-lbs with clean dry threads.

 

[RSPEC-015]

Sorry GTPony, I haven't visited this thread for a while. The Steeda instructions listed 33 or 34ftlbs, not sure which as I've sold that brace, but I torqued to 36 as I'd seen the Ford info at 41!

I'm thinking along your lines that it was a defective stud. Going to be fixed soon at dealership (just waiting for the coilovers to arrive).

I'll check the instructions with the GT350R brace that I got.

Cheers

 

[GT Pony]

I'll check the instructions with the GT350R brace that I got.

Cheers

The GT350R and Ford Racing brace will show the strut nuts to be torqued to 41 ft-lbs, just like the Ford service manual. I'm going to play it safe, and torque mine to 30 ft-lbs based on what I'm seeing in various torque tables for a 10M x 1.50, Grade 8.8 bolt.

 

[gameovergt]

the 2 studs on the passenger side are stripped/thread is bad. Can the threads be retapped?

 

[cyclonetron]

I did the exact same thing. It is kind of a pain in the butt to fix, but you can do it if you have some good bits and some skill with a drill.

Basically, you're just going to have to drill through the bolt. It is really a stud since it is welded to the frame.

If I was doing this again, this is what I would do:

1. Jack up at least the side of the car with the sheared stud. This will get weight off the wheel and allow much easier access to install the new bolt. Of course, use a jack stand...

2. Remove all the braces. I didn't, and I couldn't file off to a flat surface and it was difficult to see what I was doing. I did remove the strut tower brace, but I still had the K brace to deal with.

3. File the top of the shear stud flat, or even better, off completely.

4. Drill through the center of the stud. Use good sharp bit, a slow drill speed and a decent amount of pressure. Take your time, and try to stay on center. Start with a smaller bit, maybe a 1/8". The first bit for the center hole will be by far the toughest to drill, but also the most important. If you're off center with this, you won't be able to easily get back on center. Go all the way through. Look up from under the wheel well and you can see how on-center you are. Progressively enlarge the hole using larger bits. The smaller the step between drill diameters the better.

5. Your last drill should be as close to 10mm as possible. The actual closest bit would be 13/32nds (10.3188mm), but good luck ever finding one of those. I went with a 7/16ths (11.1125mm). I figured the holes in the K brace and the strut tower brace were both very loose, so it would be ok. You will not be removing the entire stud, since the head is welded. But it has a flat head, so a replacement bolt can go right over top of it.

6. You should replace the stud with a 10x1.5 bolt. I went to home depot and got a couple of them (they came two to a package) in different lengths. You can re-use your original nut. Buy longer bolts than you think you'll need.

6. Deburr the hole, and hit the bare metal with some primer or paint. I got a small can of brush-on rustoleum in black for this kind of thing.

7. Install the new bolt from underneath with the K brace and strut tower brace back in position. Put the nut on top, then tighten it down with a socket on the bolt head from underneath.

This job ended up taking me a while longer than it should have because I didn't file the stud down to get a flat surface to begin drilling. I was fighting holding it near center, and it was hard to see exactly where I was with the K brace there.

From the engine bay, you'd really have to know to look for it to tell the difference in the bolt.

I'll get some pictures when I get home this afternoon.... I'll also grab the bolts I ended up using.

I followed your directions and they were great, however can you explain more how you tightened the bolt from underneath? The way I did it was very difficult. I had a hard time with the strut in the way.

 

[Adr2600]

Sorry GTPony, I haven't visited this thread for a while. The Steeda instructions listed 33 or 34ftlbs, not sure which as I've sold that brace, but I torqued to 36 as I'd seen the Ford info at 41!

I'm thinking along your lines that it was a defective stud. Going to be fixed soon at dealership (just waiting for the coilovers to arrive).

I'll check the instructions with the GT350R brace that I got.

Cheers

I know this is an old thread, but did the dealer replace with OEM studs?

 

[RSPEC-015]

Hi adr2600,

That was a while ago but the dealer did use a Ford genuine part.

I also don’t have the car anymore.

Cheers,

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