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Alignment woes after new springs...

BmacIL

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Your car barely needs to be aligned. I would leave the front camber where it is at, have them zero the toe out front and rear and bring the rear camber back to about -1.5.
Agreed with this, although a little positive toe in the rear is good for stability on-power for most people. Just make sure the toe is even both sides...they CAN get there.
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jasonstang

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Should have got camber plate and adjustable linkages in the back.
The mustang doesn't have any adjustment from the factory.
 

BmacIL

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Should have got camber plate and adjustable linkages in the back.
The mustang doesn't have any adjustment from the factory.
There is rear camber adjustment. Subframe mounting hole is slotted.
 

scott_0

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some would be good with that front camber, I wouldn't be, I'd want it at no more than -1.5, I don't personally like or trust camber bolts, but they'd get you in spec. as said that toe front and rear is easily spec'd with factory parts already in place, the rear camber can be brought into spec with factory parts as well, I was close to that in the rear and they got me to my requested -1.5
 

Jmart

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[MENTION=28465]ghst[/MENTION] not bad at all. Any shop that knows what they are doing can bring that in. My alignment was similar and they brought everything into spec!
Do you mean everything except for front camber? I'm about to go in for an alignment and don't see how front camber would be adjusted without camber plates. Just want to make sure I'm not missing something.
 

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BmacIL

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Front camber, unless it's severe (stance), or there's significant toe angle coupled with it, won't produce significant wear inconsistencies. You're not drastically increasing load on the inside at -1.5, even -2 deg. Toe is what wears tires excessively as it's creating a constant scrub/slip angle.
 

S7N

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I'm going to be installing these exact same springs soon but from what I've read an alignment really isn't necessary with only a 1" drop.
 

Norm Peterson

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Going with more negative front camber than -1.5° is certainly do-able, but what that means to me is that your normal cornering needs to be more "enthusiastic" than average. I would want the front toes to be positive numbers (individual toe-in), though.

Same for rear toe, slightly 'in' instead of slightly 'out' (like the left rear) or way 'in' (like the RR). Rear cambers could be a bit less, more so if front cambers are brought down from their current -1.7°, but probably need to be at least as negative as wherever the front cambers end up at least for now (IOW, until you drive it for a while and determine that the handling needs to be "loosened-up" a little).


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

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I'm going to be installing these exact same springs soon but from what I've read an alignment really isn't necessary with only a 1" drop.
This depends partly on where your car's cambers are to start with. Do not assume that they're at "factory preferred" or even near the middle of the ranges.

Hell, front cambers on my car weren't even within the factory range, and there's no guarantee that Ford has gotten any better about not letting 'outliers' like that out the door with the S550.


Semi-educated guess - front camber goes about 0.6° more negative in the first inch of lowering. But I'm not at all sure what happens with rear camber with this chassis as it is lowered.


Norm
 
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BmacIL

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This depends partly on where your car's cambers are to start with. Do not assume that they're at "factory preferred" or even near the middle of the ranges.

Hell, front cambers on my car weren't even within the factory range, and there's no guarantee that Ford has gotten any better about not letting 'outliers' like that out the door with the S550.


Semi-educated guess - front camber goes about 0.6° more negative in the first inch of lowering. But I'm not at all sure what happens with rear camber with this chassis as it is lowered.


Norm
It gains slightly more than a degree per inch of lowering, at least around nominal. The camber change curves are never a straight line.
 

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scott_0

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I'm going to be installing these exact same springs soon but from what I've read an alignment really isn't necessary with only a 1" drop.
an alignment is always needed after lowering, no matter what the drop is
 

Gooner86

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Is it possible to get -1.2 front and -1.4 back for camber with Eibach pro kit without camber plates or bolts. Also what should the toe be like .1 or .2 For front and back on each side?
 
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ghst

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Just got back from another shop who's known for alignment work. They gave me a great price, and their machine measured differently than FORD's. They said I didn't need much adjustment at all.

My toe is now corrected, and everything is in the green.

Rear wheels are -2.1 camber, fronts still -1.6, but I can live with that. Should be expected, and eventually I'll get caster/camber plates and try to dial things in better, but it's a daily driver with new rubber all around, so I'm not going to stress it.

Never going back to my dealership again for this kind of stuff.
 

BmacIL

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Just got back from another shop who's known for alignment work. They gave me a great price, and their machine measured differently than FORD's. They said I didn't need much adjustment at all.

My toe is now corrected, and everything is in the green.

Rear wheels are -2.1 camber, fronts still -1.6, but I can live with that. Should be expected, and eventually I'll get caster/camber plates and try to dial things in better, but it's a daily driver with new rubber all around, so I'm not going to stress it.

Never going back to my dealership again for this kind of stuff.
Front is good, though I would definitely try to bring the rear in closer to where the front currently is.
 
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ghst

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Front is good, though I would definitely try to bring the rear in closer to where the front currently is.
Well, I already left the shop and paid :doh:

You think there would be long term problems with -2 camber in the rear? I was told it wouldn't be too bad. I'm not super concerned about tire wear if that's the only issue.
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