is -.30 total rear toe too much?

[RadBOSS]

I string mine too. A pro crew chief I talked to once said that in his race shop, he uses a laser alignment machine to set up customer cars. But he uses string on the race car because it's just as accurate and it's a lot more reliable because there's nothing to go wrong.

Never say never

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[RadBOSS]

So strings parallel to each other along the side of the car then measure the distance from the string to the lip of the front of the wheel then from the string to the lip of the back of the wheel?

If so, which measurement was longer and by how much?

Strings need to be parallel to the centerline of the chassis.

If you really want to get accurate, driver weight should be in the seat.

Not sure if mentioned previously, steering rack centered.

 

[RadBOSS]

You need to look at the Total/split which is 0.30 +/- 0.20

The TOTAL toe range for the GT350/R is 0.10-0.50 toe-IN


(The 0.15 +/- 0.20 is PER side. So there is an allowance to have the rear toe staggered, birthday total needs to always be Toe-IN).

Your math above is not quite correct. The spec 0.3 +/- 0.20 range breaks out to be:

0.30+0.20 = 0.50 max

or

0.30-0.20 = 0.10 min

 

[Epiphany]

Strings need to be parallel to the centerline of the chassis.

If you really want to get accurate, driver weight should be in the seat.

Not sure if mentioned previously, steering rack centered.

Exactly. The key being finding the chassis centerline. I plumb down control arm pickup points and plot them on the floor. I use conduit with equally spaced (front and rear) holes for stringline and then position it relative to the marks made previously. This was from the GT500 I had before my GT350 when doing a Maximum Motorposrts K-member install.

 

[Voodooo]

You guys using the alignment racks are wasting time. Why not string your car and check it yourself. I can't stand when people think that the latest and most advanced equipment is the best when in reality it's not. Sometimes reinventing the wheel is a waste of time.
The only advantage of laser alignment racks are set up times. They are only as good as the person using them.

I prefer strings and a smart level or smart camber gauge over lasers any day.

 

[Stuntman]

Strings need to be parallel to the centerline of the chassis.

If you really want to get accurate, driver weight should be in the seat.

Not sure if mentioned previously, steering rack centered.

That was implied.

Your math above is not quite correct. The spec 0.3 +/- 0.20 range breaks out to be:

0.30+0.20 = 0.50 max

or

0.30-0.20 = 0.10 min

Yes it is and you're saying the same thing. "0.10-0.50 Toe-IN" means 0.10 "TO" 0.50 Toe-IN. Since positive toe is toe-in (which was specified).

 

[GT_Dave]

I have been using an easier way for the last 20 years to accurately measure toe-in using a laser level and making a precise wooden bridge that I can nest across the wheel rim and set the level on the outer vertical surface. I park the car about 10 to 15 feet from the wall in my shop, mark the floor with a piece of chalk where the laser hits near the front of the tire on each side or slightly ahead. Then rotate the bridge horizontal and project the laser straight ahead, then mark the wall on each side where the laser hits. Measure the distances between the 2 sets of marks, subtract the difference and calculate the angle between them. Quick, easy and accurate as hell.

 

[Stuntman]

Exactly. The key being finding the chassis centerline. I plumb down control arm pickup points and plot them on the floor. I use conduit with equally spaced (front and rear) holes for stringline and then position it relative to the marks made previously. This was from the GT500 I had before my GT350 when doing a Maximum Motorposrts K-member install.

You can just measure the distance from the string to the wheel center and make sure they're even R-L. It's much easier.

Is the front and rear track really the same? The tires and wheels are certainly not the same width front to rear. You are not set up correctly. Your string has to be parallel to the centerline of the chassis, not to the wheels.

Read the above.

 

[RadBOSS]

That was implied.


Yes it is and you're saying the same thing. "0.10-0.50 Toe-IN" means 0.10 "TO" 0.50 Toe-IN. Since positive toe is toe-in (which was specified).

Well '-' when sandwiched between two numbers usually means minus, so your setting says 0.10 Minus 0.50 which is -0.40

 

[Voodooo]

Yeah and .000 means thousands not degrees. I can convert .000 to degrees with trig.

 

[Voodooo]

Well '-' when sandwiched between two numbers usually means minus, so your setting says 0.10 Minus 0.50 which is -0.40

This to me is .10 or .100 thousands. Not 1th of a degree.

 

[JAJ]

The setup in Epiphany's post is basically what I use. I have two 6' long wooden sticks with knife-edge nicks exactly the same distance apart on both pieces for the string to rest in. You rest them on top of jack stands and move them side to side until the car is centered between them. I use 20 pound fishing line with weights so the strings are straight and level.

The other thing to take care with is leveling the car. I have 12x12 asphalt floor tiles that I stack up and drive onto. It's important to level it side-to-side, but not so critical front-to-back. My garage floor is actually quite level - I need one tile under the front left wheel and two under the right rear.

As noted earlier, you also have to center the steering wheel precisely and de-tension the suspension bushings to get accurate readings for both camber and toe.

The way I accomplish both is to make the stack of leveling floor tiles longer - 12x36". Then I back up onto the stack and move a little further back than where I'll be when I measure. Then I make sure I have the steering wheel centered and drive forward again. This relieves stress on the suspension bushings from backing up, and puts the alignment into the "I'm driving forward" position.

I used to use the laser level for camber, but I came up with a simpler and more reliable way to do it. I take one of my toe measurement sticks and lay it across the engine bay and let the string hang with a weight at the bottom. Then, to measure camber, I just measure the gap from the string at the bottom of the wheel and the gap at the top. Measuring from the lip on 19" rims, one degree translates to a 9mm difference in gap. It'll require a different approach to hang the string at the rear, but the advantage is that the method is pretty much idiot proof.

 

[Ctease]

Minus, hyphen and en dash all look the same (en dash slightly longer but harder to type so almost never used).

30-20=10

For your homework read chapter 1-5.

I attended university from 1990-1995.

0.10-0.50 toe-in

Her names is Rainbow Snatch Jones-Hernandez. Yes her mother is a hippie feminist.

Digression :lol:

 

[Ctease]

1.50* (degrees) is also 1* 30' (degrees & minutes)

GT350 caster 6.83*
R caster 6.92*

83 & 92 seems random but converted to degrees and minutes: 6* 50' & 6* 55'

0.26* is 1/8" or 0.125" on GT350 size tire or about 1/16 per side.

0.30* is 0.145" or 5/32" or 9/64" depending on how retarded someone wants to be about it.

3mm is about 0.25* or about 1.5mm per side.
3.6mm is about 0.30* or about 1.8mm per side.

**All subject to my melted brain remembering correctly.

 

[Stuntman]

Well '-' when sandwiched between two numbers usually means minus, so your setting says 0.10 Minus 0.50 which is -0.40

Man you're obnoxiously argumentative and have horrible reading comprehension.

"The TOTAL toe range for the GT350/R is 0.10-0.50 toe-IN"


"Range": is the area of variation between upper and lower limits on a particular scale -and would NOT be given in an open-ended (0.10 'minus' 0.50) equation. :frusty:

This to me is .10 or .100 thousands. Not 1th of a degree.

The conversation of the OP is discussing alignment using Ford, FP, and Hunter alignment machine values of degrees. If we were initially (or mostly) talking about string alignment values, specs, and measurements, we would be talking about length in metric or standard and not degrees...

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