wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Hammer the hub portion of the rotor between the lugs while pulling in the rotor. It'll come off.
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Thanks. I'll give it a try.Hammer the hub portion of the rotor between the lugs while pulling in the rotor. It'll come off.

You don't have clearance to knock out the strut bolts with the caliper and rotor still on. Honestly that's one of the least difficult & time consuming parts. Front of mine done. Rear starting now.you cant get the strut off without removing the rotor?!! I haven't put my springs in yet, I'm shocked you cant if that's the case...
Did you have to 'beat the crap' out of your strut bolts to free them?You don't have clearance to knock out the strut bolts with the caliper and rotor still on. Honestly that's one of the least difficult & time consuming parts. Front of mine done. Rear starting now.
Looks killer!!!Another of mine from a couple of weeks ago. Love the stance, no rubbing.

Put the jack underneath and apply a little upwards force.Did you have to 'beat the crap' out of your strut bolts to free them?
Another of mine from a couple of weeks ago. Love the stance, no rubbing.
Looks greatDid you swap both the front and rear struts to the pp struts/shocks or just the rear to relieve the bouncy feeling?I put on the sp089/sp082 performance springs on my non-PP. The fronts felt good, but the rear was a little bouncy when going full travel. Everyday driving was fine, but there is one dip on the way home that would cause the rear to bounce too much for me. After swapping the struts/shocks to a PP set, everything felt well matched.
Looks dynamite bro!

Find a way to get the Steeda fixed valve dampers over the PP ones. You'll be happy you did.Did you swap both the front and rear struts to the pp struts/shocks or just the rear to relieve the bouncy feeling?
Found a set( all four) front and rear pp strut/shocks for $315 new. So I am looking at around $500 for springs and struts to put on my base GT. ( if I jump on BMRs sale ).