Full Tilt Boogie GT350 Brake Conversion Kit Install

[Jmeo]

This looks sweet! Really glad you pointed out the offset on the wheels, something I wouldn't have expected. I'm curious if this is a blessing or a curse.

I hear ya. I'm now ordering my 3'rd set of wheel in two years lol. Just took a measurement after a test drive at curb height suspension and I'm getting a solid 1/4" or maybe 5/16" push out of wheel well. Anyone who has the room to go out 5/16" is good (as long as your spoke clearance is great enough to clear the calipers).

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[Jmeo]

Also, did your offset change after the brake install?

Fronts are unchanged but the rears went out 6mm or 1/4"

 

[Performance nut]

I hear ya. I'm now ordering my 3'rd set of wheel in two years lol. Just took a measurement after a test drive at curb height suspension and I'm getting a solid 1/4" or maybe 5/16" push out of wheel well. Anyone who has the room to go out 5/16" is good (as long as your spoke clearance is great enough to clear the calipers).

Will this limit you in wheel selection, as in you can go no wider than 10" now? I curious how this will change things like wheels. Is it a good change or something undesirable.

 

[Grim12]

Awesome write up. Thanks!

Any numbers on weight differences? Front and rear?

 

[Jmeo]

Will this limit you in wheel selection, as in you can go no wider than 10" now? I curious how this will change things like wheels. Is it a good change or something undesirable.

Its more work finding wheels but you can still get 11"

I am getting 19x10 front and 19x11 rear

 

[Jmeo]

Awesome write up. Thanks!

Any numbers on weight differences? Front and rear?

FTB says the front rotors are almost 5 lbs lighter each and the rear is about the same

 

[Niz55]

I used a little red locktite, did you?

For me after I hit 98ftlb I couldn't turn it another 45% I only got about half of that but the red locktite should work.

I actually bought 2 new nuts that came with locate applied but it came loose after driving it for a little.

 

[Epiphany]

Nice work Jmeo. Bruce's kit is a good one and hopefully more will take advantage of it now that you have illustrated how easy it is to install.

 

[brian.cole]

You have a 2017 A6 GT? Did you do anything with regard to your brake booster or master cylinder? I was considering even doing the PP front brakes and saw somewhere that A6 GT cars need to swap over to the PP brake booster and/or master cylinder.

 

[2015Etrac]

You have a 2017 A6 GT? Did you do anything with regard to your brake booster or master cylinder? I was considering even doing the PP front brakes and saw somewhere that A6 GT cars need to swap over to the PP brake booster and/or master cylinder.

I was wondering the same thing. For only $400 more I'd rather get this front kit than the standard 15in GT PP Brembo's. I have heard the auto GT's need a different master cylinder, but I also heard people saying no, they installed them with the stock one. I'm curious to know for sure if one is needed or not.

 

[Jmeo]

You have a 2017 A6 GT? Did you do anything with regard to your brake booster or master cylinder? I was considering even doing the PP front brakes and saw somewhere that A6 GT cars need to swap over to the PP brake booster and/or master cylinder.

I was wondering the same thing. For only $400 more I'd rather get this front kit than the standard 15in GT PP Brembo's. I have heard the auto GT's need a different master cylinder, but I also heard people saying no, they installed them with the stock one. I'm curious to know for sure if one is needed or not.

I was going to get a different booster but decided to try it first. I also read that on Ford Racing's description but I have not seen that mentioned elsewhere so I'm not sure how accurate it is.

I figure if I had issues I'd change it then but I have no issues and it works perfectly. There would be no reason to change the master cylinder though the only difference with those are either manual with clutch line or auto without. The booster would be the only difference if any at all

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Is there proven improvements on braking from stock 6 pistons to gt350r conversion? I would be curious to see a side by side comparison for feel, performance, and heat tolerance.

If I was a GTPP owner or a non pp GT owner I'd use the oem GT PP brakes with two piece discs and do the black anodized rear GT350 kit to match.At that point they will be lighter than the GT350 setup.

Also with the GT350 setup you must remove the front calipers to swap pads. This has become a pain in the ass which is part of the reason why I'm going to a new AP kit.

Another huge benefit is that the GT PP can clear many 18" wheels, the Gt350 ones cannot clear any 18s and some 19"s may not clear as well.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Is that safe?

The oem gt350 knuckle is all aluminum.

Also any BBK from Brembo, AP, stoptech, Alcon all use aluminum brackets.

It's more than safe.

 

[Jmeo]

If I was a GTPP owner or a non pp GT owner I'd use the oem GT PP brakes with two piece discs and do the black anodized rear GT350 kit to match.At that point they will be lighter than the GT350 setup.

Also with the GT350 setup you must remove the front calipers to swap pads. This has become a pain in the ass which is part of the reason why I'm going to a new AP kit.

Another huge benefit is that the GT PP can clear many 18" wheels, the Gt350 ones cannot clear any 18s and some 19"s may not clear as well.

If your a serious racer where weight was a concern I would agree. For someone like me who isn't concerned with weight and coming from non PP brakes it makes more sense going straight to GT350 brakes. Assuming your fine with having to use 19" wheels that is and yes, the selection of 19" wheels is less using these but there are still plenty of options.

On my 05 I went with Willwood and it was more expensive than this kit and in my experience not even close to the fit, finish and performance of these.

Yes the calipers need to come off to change the pads but you have 2 options to help make it more tolerable. One, Optimum Performance has 10" long bolts which you thread in to the mounting bolt holes when changing pads allowing you to slide the caliper up the bolts. I would use a vice grip on the bolt to hold it in place to change the pads then slide the caliper back down the bolts into place. Two, there is a stud kit available to help by simply removing 2 nuts to remove the caliper and swap the pads. I know neither is as easy as pins and the ability to just pull the pads out but they are good options. For me, I don't race and do 4,000 miles a year so it's a non issue.

Personally I don't think there is a better brake kit for the value of this one. Most other options have you spending the cost of this kit just to get fronts.

 

[stoli]

Its more work finding wheels but you can still get 11"

I am getting 19x10 front and 19x11 rear

Why not just get the backpad of your wheel shaved down 1/4"?

The brakes look great - I may end up doing just the rears; I change pads too often to go through the hassle on the fronts of removing the caliper each time.

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