Procharger Stage 2 & Spark Plugs

[oesman]

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of my Procharger Stage 2 install and wondering if I should change out my spark plugs. It looks like a lot of people are running these NGK 6510 plugs. Should I change out my factory plugs to these? If so should I get another tune from Procharger or are they expecting me to change to a cooler plug?

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[ColtonimusPrime]

You should definitely change out the factory plugs to some that are colder. The NGK's are great. Brisk works too, it's what I use. I believe it's the RR14YS? Correct me if I'm wrong. And I would gap to what your tuner suggests, mine are at .030" per Lund's recommendation.

 

[oesman]

Thanks! Its a procharger supplied tune. Looks like they recommend .035. Does that seem too high?

 

[venumous]

Im not usually the one to say "search" but there was an identical thread a few days ago. Yes change the plugs and yes 0.028 - 0.035 is the recommended gap and I would always listen to whoever is tuning the car (assuming it's a reputable tuner).

 

[JadedGT]

ProCharger will recommend a .032 gap. Between .028 and .032 is usually what people go with.

 

[Bartly]

ProCharger will recommend a .032 gap. Between .028 and .032 is usually what people go with.

X2 on this. Placed a call into PC yesterday and was told between .030-.035, but was suggested .032, so that's what I set mine at.

 

[oesman]

X2 on this. Placed a call into PC yesterday and was told between .030-.035, but was suggested .032, so that's what I set mine at.

Cool, I'll do the same thing then. You're running their tune too?

 

[Bartly]

Cool, I'll do the same thing then. You're running their tune too?

Yep, well not yet, but hopefully by the weekend.

 

[whatsup62]

Running the NGKs at .030"

 

[oesman]

Im getting close. Too bad stores arent open to get plugs. Tomorrow!

http://imgur.com/JigWOV4

Now if I can figure out these stupid tensioner markings... they really need to show a pic.

EDIT: Think I got it and the slack in the belt feels pretty good, I can turn it perpendicular on itself with about the same force as the serpentine belt and it matches the lowest marking which I'm assuming is the "first", man wish they numbered to be deterministic. That beings said the tensioner pulley is VERY close to the blower pulley which is concerning.

 

[MyLilPony]

Brisk work great and so the NGk's. Plenty of details on these. My next time I will switch from brisk to ngk.

 

[Travis@boostworks]

NGK 6510 gapped at .032".

 

[oesman]

Thanks guys! This community is awesome. I'm going to do NGK 6510 @ .032.

At this point i did everything except the plugs and the voltage booster for the pump. Should finish the plugs in the AM and the pump before i cleanup and repark the car. I imagine driving it around the garage with hot plugs wont matter, I wont be hitting any boost and making heat.

How about the tensioner? Is it normal for the tensioner pulley to be like 1/8th of an inch from the blower pulley? I realize its locked-in but feels a bit sketch like the belt is a tad short. Maybe it's fube though.

 

[Bartly]

Thanks guys! This community is awesome. I'm going to do NGK 6510 @ .032.
...

How about the tensioner? Is it normal for the tensioner pulley to be like 1/8th of an inch from the blower pulley? I realize its locked-in but feels a bit sketch like the belt is a tad short. Maybe it's fube though.

I noticed the same thing doing mine today. Figured if they aren't notching now I wouldn't think they can when they spin, and that I never heard of a problem.

 

[oesman]

[MENTION=19360]Bartly[/MENTION]

Thanks for replying. I guess Im concerned over nothing.

One thing im not completely clearn on; After a bit of driving when the belt stretches out, presumably I cant aim for the same notch. Am I going to aim for the second notch? How did you do it?

The last centrifical I installed had no notches. You badically just judged the tension by twisting the slack and if it couldnt turn >90 degrees you were good. That and of course making boost without slipping ;-).

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